I know a lot of LS3 owners have allready installed the New E-Force Superchargers. I've seen some of the Dyno numbers and I've read about the seat of the pants performance gains..BUT...What were the actual 1/4 mile improvements with this set up? I'm on the fence in choosing a Supercharger for my BOLT-ON 08 LS3 A6. I really don't want to change my hood again...I'm happy with my Lingenfelter twin turbo hood. A&A, ECS or a 2300 are my choices if the E-Force doesn't perform well in the !/4 mile. My bolt-on LS3 runs 11.2's@121mph in sunny(HOT HOT)Florida. Hope to run a flat 11 second et with some skinnies and cooler weather. With a supercharge added to my bolt-on configuration...Want to see 10.6's without cam or head upgrades. Please chime in..If you can give any real world information. Thanks...MIKE

 

Here's some real world for you.

08 A6 C6, std ECS Paxton kit, AR headers, alky injection, 600rwhp+-. Otherwise stock, driven to and from the track and ran on street tires. This is one of our normal 2-3 day installs, still has the restrictor plate installed, and has a lot left on tap if or when the customer wishes to turn it up.

click on the pic.







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arties car runs great, even in hot weather

 

You'll heat soak and be done

 

Yup. Those centri's are hard to beat! Nice work.

 

10.6 is a cake walk w/ a centri blower of any vendor..

 

Great run! What PSI is that? Stock LS3 internals? Meth really must work...if, in fact, that is a stock LS3 engine...I am debating ramping up my E-Force to 10psi..but I was told that Meth would be a MUST.

 

Meth is not an option on the E-Force according to Edelbrock. They claim their rotors are coated and Meth would have a adverse effect. Since you are the only person that responded that has the E-Force Installed...What times are you running? Thanks...MIKE

 

My install is only about 3 weeks old...I haven't run it yet...The mod bug is wanting more already...I did this same thing with my GT500...first a pulley, then a Kenne Bell...Vette's are soooooo much more fun to drive boosted. I will sure let you know if/when I run it....there is a 1/8 mile track near by that won't serve my car/setup justice...

 

NOBODY???? You got to be kidding me. Not one of you have been to the track with your E-Force Supercharged cars???? Or have you been their and just don't want to post your times?

 

Anyone whose number one requirement is how fast the car gets down the quarter probably wouldn't start with a supercharger that weighs 25lbs more than a centri. You missed my subtle hint above about heat soak and short engine run cycles. Here you go...

You drive the car to the track on a hot day and the car maintains decent IATs just as it was designed to. The IATs aren't great but they are well within norms. You shut the car down and guess what happens?...the entire mass of the PD blower housing starts to work it's way up to the engine block temp. You fire the car up and you are staring at a 150 IAT number....things are heat soaked. No way you are going to bring that down unless you take the car for a 5 minute stroll at 60mph. Your turn comes up in the queue, you pull up, you heat the tires and then you take the car, which has now thoroughly heat soaked, and you run it WOT for about 11 seconds. IATs are now really up there now and the coolant in your reservoir is now nice and hot, just like the blower housing. You return to the pit area, shut the car down, and guess what, the heat soak cycle continues but this time all of the numbers are 160+. At an IAT of 131 degrees, the Edelbrock start starts pulling timing. Every successive run would net you higher temps and a longer ET.

Once you heat soak a PD blower it takes either a long cool down cycle at speed with lots of airflow across the heat exchanger or many hours "at rest" for the entire assembly to cool down. Unless you have a large fan blowing across the heat exchanger and hot-wire the cooling pump to ON, you'll never cool it down between runs.

There is a reason you don't see many PD blowers at the track!

If your #1 criteria is how fast you can get down the quarter mile....BUY A CENTRI

My two cents worth

 

 

This may generally be true especially for back to back runs but has not affected me that much. I have tvs 2300 and in 6 runs the same day, the mph was repeatable. Don't recall exactly but I think it was the 4th run that it did 10.37@139.9 at 3270'. The heat soak is a problem when starting hot after sitting for a short while. The iat sensor is hot and tells the ecm to lean the fuel which causes idle surge for 1-2 minutes. I push up in the lanes and only start engine when car in front of me is called to burnout.

 

139.9 trap speed is very fast...what psi are you running with your TVS?

 

Tell me a little more about your set up. The TVS 2300 should have less problems with Heat soak than the E-Force. I know all about heat soak...but...I still want to know about real world E-Force performance. Not trying to start a debate about Centrif vs 2300 vs E-Force vs turbo's or any thing else. I'm trying to make an educated decision on what supercharger to purchase based on my needs...Just checked your profile and see that your ride is a ZO6 and you live In the cool Canadian weather. I'm not that fortunate(for drag racing)..I live in Hot and Humid South Florida. My friend has a 07 ZO6 that runs 10.4's with cam only with bolt-on's. I would think a supercharged version of his car should run high 9's. THANKS

 

12.5@4700 falling to 10.7@6500

 

I expect the E-Force to become the dominant sc for a fun streetcar. The pd torque is addictive. Racer's will still look to centri's or turbo.
My ambient temps are usually not more than 85F but can see summer da's of 6800'.
I use a phenolic spacer between the manifold halves which helps heatsoak and opens up space under the intercooler for flow. Engine is 10.5 cr with Lethal Z blower cam. I maxed out drives 8" balancer, 3" pulley, 20% od rear cog. Gained 2 psi and lost some hp-blower past its efficiency I guess.
If 600 rwhp or less is the target, pd blower all the way. More then go
centri or turbo. IMHO.

 

Similar results here with my Maggie TVS. Last time at the track, I made nine passes and all runs were low 12's and high 120's. The track was extremely slick. There was a cammed C6 Z06 there running mid 13's. Had to back off the throttle in 1st and 2nd. It was still spinning quite a bit in third, but hammered it anyway. In fourth gear, the rear finally squatted, the front came up, and it hooked and pulled hard. Not good numbers, but had a great time nonetheless. I've made back to back high speed runs in 95 degree heat and the IAT's stayed at 35 to 40 over ambient and recovered quickly (as long as I was moving).

As mentioned above, you're not going to see too many folks try to hook that much low end grunt. Yes, it can be done, but I have no interest in doing it. I'll go to the track again, but I'll be shooting for my usual 2.2 sixties. I'm already on my second rear diff and clutch. My local track advertises 60 to 130 racing, but I've never seen them actually do it. That sounds like fun without breaking stuff.

 

Waited all weekend...and still NO information on the E-Force running the 1/4 mile! Either you put it away for the winter or you don't want to know how fast you can go. All the E-Force Vette's can't be DYNO QUEENS. This information is important for all of us who are going to be purchasing a supercharger in the future. What about Edelbrock? Has anyone seen any 1/4 mile times or claims from them?

 

Thank you.

Faster in the 1/4 means faster on the street too. Some buy because they think the low end TQ on the e-force is going to do something a centri cant and thats 100% . Centris can produce more TQ down low than tires can take. If you break loose with that, how is full boost by 2000rpm better? A watered down base kit will make 550rwtq and 600rwhp and will light up tires right off idle and you dont get the whining of the manufacturer saying that protecting you car with meth is bad for the S/C.

The ECS kit with the restrictor plate gets you the low end TQ with a ton of room to grow. I love mine.

Oh yeah, centri's cost less.

If that still doesnt make sense and all you want is light to light, may I suggest only getting gears?