I own a 04' C5 ZO6 but I've only had it for 11 months. And I'm still learning the fuel system. My question is about my options for increasing fuel without dropping the tank. The car makes roughly 440ish to the tire so I'm pretty sure I need to upgrade in the fueling system to spray a little.
Other than the typical Casper/Racetronics hotwire with the KB BAP is there any other ways to increase the fuel without dropping the damn tank?? I've been reading about the famous Bosch 044 and its potential. I have lots of ideas but I'd like to hear you guys thoughts.
O, and I've talked to all the professionals and they all want me to drop $1200-1700 bucks on there kits plus the price to drop the tank/suspention/tranny/rearend. Seems crazy for a 150 -200 shot. I've considered a stand alone but the rest of the system is hidden and that would blow all the hard work that went into that.
BTW, I'm only planning on spraying about 5 times a month. Because I only go to the track once or twice a month. The rest of the time it will be on the tank pump only. The more I type the more it sounds like the hotwire/BAP is the way to go.
But I still want opinions and facts on this.
Thanks....
Doesn't ECS or A&A corvette have a fuel sytem upgrade without dropping the tank ?? And I think the ECS system involves a 044 ?? Anybody have info on those setups ??
I posted in the C6 section because I'm told this (03'-04') was a C6 fuel system. Thanks...

 

you can make a seperate fuel system for just the nitrous (tank in the cubby hole). throw in some race gas in the 1 gallon tank and you wont need to remove any timing.

i would just BAP when the nitrous activates. 250 bucks and your done.

 

"I've considered a stand alone but the rest of the system is hidden and that would blow all the hard work that went into that."

I said this in the original statement but I would consider converting the washer res. if it was do-able. I need to research that. When I open the hood I like it to look stock and clean (as in simple). Nitro Dave has a stand alone system but....to...racey/ricer to me. I already own (66 chevyII) a race car, I'm trying to keep this a clean street car. And not head down the trailer queen road.
But thanks for the input.

And about the BAP, if I'm roughly at 500 at the flywheel now and I want to spray 150-200 then I would be on the edge if not past the BAP limits. Right ??

 

I don't have an answer. I am curious to know how you will resolve this however. I have used the boost-a-pump and it did work well. I do have reservatios about using it though, as I much prefer real solutions as opposed to bandaids. I would be tempted, if I were in your position, to go this route.


Jack.

 

you should be fine with a Bap at that hp level, I was putting 675 rwhp with a Bap.

 

Why don't you use an inline pump.

 

Also when I get into this I plan to see if I can cut a whole in the trunk tub to access the pump from the top (make a hatch and it will be covered by carpet obviously) there is a hole in the frame above the tank/pump.

When dealing with high HP cars pumps are one of the things you need easy access to when it comes to diagnostics.

 

cutting a hole above the tank has been discussed and found to be impossible.

also, we know c6z06 505hp equals 460ish to the wheel,

Im at 630ish whp and running the stock (c6) pump with KB BAP. with no sign of pressure drop.

 

Im using a BAP for now... 700+ to the tires

 

Really ?? I've always read that the 04' Z pump was good to 550ish (flywheel). So your saying the an extra 3-4 volts is worth 200 more HP ?? (Wooden)And your saying 675HP, thats like 770-800 to the flywheel. I'm not opposed to testing it but kind of an expensive test if it does not work out. Hotwire + BAP= $330-$370.

Is the 04Z fuel pump the same as the C6 fuel pump ?? I know the system architecture is the same. It changed in late 02'.

 

Hey Boosterclub, I am into a inline setup but I can't find any info on the Bosch 044 or the Walbro 255. I need to know about check valves, bypasses, wiring, ect... I'd like to have the inline pump come on when I arm the nitrous. But know one has coughed up a link or how to's.

 

700RWHP on a BAP here.

 

Is that a C6 pump or a C6Z pump ??

 

C6Z. I made 600RWHP, 518RWTQ with no methanol injection on my stock C6 pump + BAP for 30K miles (56K total), changed pumps because I had the car apart.

 

The tank is not that hard to drop on a standard transmission. I would drop the tank and replace the pump with a C6 Z or the one from Aeromotive.

 

OP I love your title "I NEED MORE FUEL" because I need it also if I don't have to buy it. Unfortunately I do have to buy it

Now back to seriousness, MSD have the best BAB for your application, check out their website, my friend installed one in his C6 Z06 with a procharger and it is working fine, my advice is to install a fuel/air ratio guage to monitor for your safety. I had a BAB and was making 738rwhp without meth and a regular C6 pump. I eventually changed it because my power went bigger now (make no sense having Big HP but we love it)

 

I had a Walbro dual pump setup(external) controlled by a PowertrainControlSolutions(PCS) extended fuel controller box. LPE set it up for me to work in conjunction with the stock in tank pump. It was mounted to the frame and was completely configurable as to when it came in and at what flow. Check out their website. LPE may be able to help with questions on wiring and setup.
The setup worked flawlessly, but I ended up going to a BAP because it was so damn loud. When the secondary fuel system kicked in at boost the noise from the pump vibrating against the frame was pretty annoying(think air wrench). People who rode with me and heard it for the first time thought it was a mechanical issue. I tried insulating the mounting bracket in rubber and trying to configure the rate at which the pump came on 0-100% to no avail. Much happier with the BAP. If your looking for stealth with a secondary fuel system consider how and where you mount it.

 

I had an MSD BAP. After going through 2 Z06 pumps in 600 miles I took it out. Is it what caused the problem? I don't know. This summer I would like to add meth with my Z06 pump and see where I land. If it's high 600's I'll be happy.

 

Really? Do you have a link to the discussion?

I am not that familiar with the vette fuel system yet. So long as the FPR can handle the amount of return (still not sure if it's return style or deadheaded) it should be pretty easy. The secondary pump can stay dormant till needed, no check valves or anything are necessary.


Sounds like the pump was not isolated properly from the frame. They can be pretty noisy if just left constantly on, but when isolated and switched to boost or some other source they should be unnoticeable.

 

It is a deadhead system with the pressure controlled internally within the pump assembly. A second pump with a hobbs switch is a common solution. Replacing the in-tank pump often times causes issues with the fuel transfer between both tanks.