Maybe it's about more than dyno sheets? Search the FI forum a bit though and you'll see dyno sheets posted all the way back to April 2010 ..about the time the LS3 kit was first released...Redline Motorsports I believe was the first....at 633/575. Typical for an otherwise 100% stock car (no mods) is 500-540rwhp with 450+ for the torque coming on very early. There is also an LS3 Camaro running around with 730/730-ish. I've posted his sheet several times on this forum.

 

Here's mine. Bone stock 07 6 speed, which was then updated with the E-force kit, the 599 hp pulley, and no fuel system upgrade.

In 100+ degree weather and massive humidity, 139 rwhp increase.



http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...ls2-now-2.html

 

How about hot weather driving and heat soak issues? I am very interested in putting the base kit on my 2008 A6 but live in Sarasota FL where it is above 90 degrees at least 5-6 months a year

 

ALL cars (modified or not, carb’d or fuel injected) experience some form of heat soak. The most common form of heat soak occurs when you shut down the car on a hot day. In the absence of active cooling (water circulating and air flowing) the entire mass under the hood will try to come to a common temperature. Because the engine is the largest mass, everything else attached will tend to migrate to the temp of the engine…typically around 200 degrees. As soon as you start the car again and begin rolling down the road you have water circulating and air flowing across the coolers…heat soak goes away. On supercharged cars, the most common and misused form of the term is when you put the car into a state that it can’t quickly recover from the heat soak….typically this occurs with repeated full throttle pulls on a dyno with inadequate airflow or when drag racing with back-to-back hot laps. So what’s the result when this happens?...the car senses the high temps, reduces timing to keep from damaging the engine and you lose horsepower (temporarily) as a result. Sustained high speed driving on a track (Sebring) while in boost can also get you into heat soak mode. What happens with the dreaded heat soak mode?...once again, the car senses the high temps, reduces timing and horsepower falls off until your cooling system recovers.

So if you plan to spend all of your time driving on the dyno in the summer, street racing in Mexico, hot lapping at the local drag strip or competing at Sebring you probably should worry about heat soak… with a supercharged or any car for that matter.

For the rest of us….it really is a non-issue. I’m willing to bet a beer that the heat soak phenomena is/would be transparent to 90% of the members on this forum.

P.S. I also live in Florida

 

P.S. I also live in Florida. I've been driving blown cars down here since 2000 as daily drivers. No issues that are discernible.



Elmer

 

Well put.

 

soooo motorhead, where is niceville, fl anyway, and how do i get there from miami ....how much for the kit plus install and how many days would it take , '09 m6 z51 w/ npp

 

Niceville is in the Pan handle. 5 hours from Jax on I10.

Elmer

 

crappola....thats far for me ...thats like an 8-9 hour drive for me

 

I second Motorhead-47 inputs. I was looking for more power coupled with autobahn sustained driving @140m/h. The tuning was tailored accordingly. No issues. Highly recommend.

 

More like 10-11 hours unless you take some serious liberties with the posted limits. My Mom lives in Stuart and it's 8 hours no matter how many liberties I take. It's 2.5 hours to Miami from her house.

That being said, you could not ask for a more thorough non professional (meaning it's not his primary profession) installer of an E-Force then Motorhead-47. I've assisted with the grunt work on two installs he's done plus he was a HUGE help with the centri install on my car. We live across the street from each other.

 

aahh so its further down from tallahassee?...from miami to tally its about 8-9 hours...

yea thats a long drive...how long does the install normally take?...

 

Unfortunately you and I could not be much further apart and still be in the same state. Niceville is just 5 miles outside the gates of the largest Air Force base (Eglin AFB) in the continental United States. I’m only about 60 miles from the western most border of the state up in the Panhandle. This is trivia info but Eglin AFB is the home of the Air Force’s Air Armament Center where we manage all Air Force air-to-air and air-to-ground weapon systems…from cradle to grave. Program names that you might be familiar are JDAM, MOP, MOAB, JASSM, AMRAAM, and SDB to name a few. So if you laugh when you hear the name “Niceville” it is actually those of us who live here who are laughing….high tech wages in a modest cost-of-living area with a small town southern atmosphere!

Anyhow, I don’t wrench for a living but have been known to do a supercharger install or two or ???? for others.... losing count of how many but I think we are at 8 or 9. I usually work with a couple of close friends on these projects. Day-to-day I work aircraft weapon systems integration for a living but gas runs through my veins. I work a 40 hour M-F job so your car would have to done over a 3 day weekend….I don’t like to rush a job. You’d need to purchase the kit from one of the forum vendors and have it drop shipped to me. I don’t run a business.

My personal car is also a 2009 C6 MN6 NPP car. In addition to the 1591 Edelbrock kit, I have a mild cam, headers, larger injectors and a smaller 3.25” pulley as well and a host of other lesser mods. My car isn’t quite as stealthy as others (blame the cam and noisy Comp Cams dual valve springs) but my buddies tell me it’s the stealthiest stupid fast Vette they know of. Forum member “drich2905” gets the award for the stealthiest supercharged convertible...perfect balance of performance and style while giving up nothing in the form of the stock Vette’s drivability with his Edelbrock.

I don’t think the logistics would work out for me to install your kit but please feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

 

If you are going to supercharge, regardless of what kit you buy, you should give strong consideration to a better radiator such as the Dewitts direct fit and add a 160 degree thermostat.

 

thanks for the info motorhead and i'll be sure to PM you with any additional questions i may have

 

Piggy backing Motorhead-47's post about the Air Armament Museum, here's a pic of two of the centris we did (mine is the drop top) in front of a mock up of the baddest bomb short of a nuke. I, too, work on base in the F-15 avionics lab and like Motorhead-47, fuel runs through my veins as well.

 

Plenty of power there.... Oh Im talking about the Mother Of All Bombs....

Nice pic

 

The STS is ok if used within its design limitations but be aware that many people that tried replacing the mufflers with turbos, myself included, couldnt take the drone noise.

I've done E-force installs and there isnt anything to complain about with the kit. It installs quick and is worry free. I would be sure to use a 160 t-stat and check the tune but aside from that, if these are your only two choices, get the E-force. I've never had one come back with an issue. The belt tracks fine and it makes more power top to bottom than any street tire can take. Its only when you take power up to the 600+range that meth is needed for heat and octane making a centri more advisable. For lower power installs it isnt an issue.

Good luck with your mods.