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My car worth an E-Force?

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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
JFKLS3,

As stated above, do your research. Look for the threads from those who actually "own" the supercharger you are looking at purchasing...enough said.
I will agree with this...

But you can also feel free to PM me and I will explain to you the drawbacks of PD style blowers as well as the good things about them..

Simply put..

If your happy with 600hp or less, want great TQ through the powerband, and have cash to burn, buy the Eforce

If you have expectations of 600+hp and want a just plain wicked car, go with a centri unit from A&A or ECS.....

Pick your poison.
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Synopsis of observations from the guy (considered to be one of the best in the business) who originally put this car together...

1.) BAP set to ZERO! That is exactly the same as running NO BAP.






I'm glad someone besides me noticed this. Getting hard into the boost with the boost-a-pump set to "0" is a recipe for disaster. It was running lean, and anyone who knows anything about FI engines should realize that is a very bad thing. I'm really not surprised his engine let go.

Last edited by Streetk14; Mar 17, 2011 at 09:22 PM.
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by breecher_7

Pick your poison.
Just a quick reminder that GM's "poison" happens to be a PD blower for both the ZR1 and Cadillac CTS-V. Pretty sure that new Camaro ain't coming with a centri either!



Last edited by Motorhead-47; Mar 17, 2011 at 09:25 PM.
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Just a quick reminder that GM's "poision" happens to be a PD blower for both the ZR1 and Cadillac CTS-V. Pretty sure that new Camaro ain't coming with a centri either!

I've had both (122 Maggie and T-trim), but I'm sure you know the reasons GM and most every other OEM uses Eaton style blowers. The TVS blowers are nearly silent,reliable, easy to package, have almost zero maintenance and make adequate power for the chosen platform.

The whistle noise from my Vortech is enough to prevent use in an OEM application. I love the sound, but it isn't for everyone and that alone is probably a deal breaker for GM. I also feel the centri head units themselves aren't as reliable as an Eaton/TVS. But they can make some crazy, linear power.
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Just a quick reminder that GM's "poison" happens to be a PD blower for both the ZR1 and Cadillac CTS-V. Pretty sure that new Camaro ain't coming with a centri either!


There is a simple reason for this. PD blowers are choosen because they require little to no maintenance and they are very reliable. They are not choosen for there capability to make serious power...

Lets just get that straight....
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Streetk14
I've had both (122 Maggie and T-trim), but I'm sure you know the reasons GM and most every other OEM uses Eaton style blowers. The TVS blowers are nearly silent,reliable, easy to package, have almost zero maintenance and make adequate power for the chosen platform.

The whistle noise from my Vortech is enough to prevent use in an OEM application. I love the sound, but it isn't for everyone and that alone is probably a deal breaker for GM. I also feel the centri head units themselves aren't as reliable as an Eaton/TVS. But they can make some crazy, linear power.

Took my words while i was typing!
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by breecher_7
Took my words while i was typing!
noise depends on the headunit, when i see eaton i think pullied 03-04 cobra whinning.

my paxton is dead silent - total sleeper on the road
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Just a quick reminder that GM's "poison" happens to be a PD blower for both the ZR1 and Cadillac CTS-V. Pretty sure that new Camaro ain't coming with a centri either!


dont trust the general on everything... 2 words come to mind: leaf spring...
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SinisterC6
leaf spring...
QFT!
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 06:42 AM
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Quite a debate going on here....
I basically wanted to know about the predicted reliability of the E-Force
on a 34k miles car, not the
sc, but the car itself. I will not be abusing it. Just do not want to have problems down the line.....
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 07:49 AM
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There is absolutely no reason to not install that supercharger on a 34k mile car if the car has not been thrashed by your or a previous owner.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 08:41 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Synopsis of observations from the guy (considered to be one of the best in the business) who originally put this car together...

1.) BAP set to ZERO! That is exactly the same as running NO BAP.

2.) Known problems shifting into 4rd and banging off the limiter all the time.

3.) Starting to slip and that is why it was not grabbing 4th.

4.) Banging the limited once or twice for a split second is not good. Do that a few times and the results will not be good, especially if you stay in it for more than a second max.



Yep...you are living proof that you can't make it idiot proof. Turn off the BAP, lean it out, over rev it repeatedly with a transmission going bad and....pop. Works every time!


Simplyphp's motor...the guy giving "expert advice" all over the forum on how to spend your money...
You should really get your facts straight before you look like a total moron. Thanks for trying to discount my post as irrelevant, and portray me as an idiot The guy you are talking about who did my build Taylor@Dallas Performance, but it was NOT Taylor who realized my BAP was off. It was NOT starting to slip, it simply was NOT shifting early enough to try and get into the gear.

To clarify, I am no car mechanic and Dallas Performance had done all the work (excluding the 3.42s) on my car. Even oil changes. To make it seem like I purposely turned off the BAP and purposely had my transmission trying to shift at too high of speeds, is entirely wrong.

1. BAP was off but when you're in boost are you watching the road or are you looking at a gauge?

2. Total BS, it was not hitting the limiter "all the time". It was only between 87 and 89 it would have the problem, which I was not in that speed range when my engine blew. I could avoid the issue by avoiding shifting in that range.

3. It was the tune for the transmission needing to be modified to try and shift earlier.

4. Any time it would do it, I immediately let off the gas. As I said, I knew the range it would happen and tried to avoid reproducing it. I'm not a total idiot like you're claiming, holding my foot down for a few minutes while I drink my beer going down the highway

I did not have a wideband sensor or AFR gauge in my car to know it was lean. With my new build I will have these things and my new gauge has a light that we can program to come on if it's going lean under any % of throttle we specify.

As for the picture of my engine, what's your point? I have far more knowledge now than I did before. I learned a lot from having it blow up. Not sure why you're trying to throw cover the mouths of people who say if you play with fire you can get burned. If anything, people should take my advice and warnings seriously because it did happen to me.


Originally Posted by Streetk14


I'm glad someone besides me noticed this. Getting hard into the boost with the boost-a-pump set to "0" is a recipe for disaster. It was running lean, and anyone who knows anything about FI engines should realize that is a very bad thing. I'm really not surprised his engine let go.
Do you guys really think that I knowingly drove my car with the boost a pump off? It was something I realized after the engine blew, I never touched it and had it been soldered like A&A recommends, it wouldn't have been a potential factor in this whole thing. I paid a lot of money and trusted 100% in the shop to make my build last, I definitely did not fudge with any work they did, and I even took my car there for the oil changes because they're great guys.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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I like being blown
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by simplyphp
[b]
Do you guys really think that I knowingly drove my car with the boost a pump off?
I don't think anyone said you knowingly drove your Vette with BAP set to zero, just that you did and the end result was a blown engine. Regardless of the reasons, it was set to zero. That fact should have been mentioned to your response to the OP instead of the misleading My engine got destroyed because I had and E-Force installed so beware.

We all know there is a certain risk when you go FI, but your comments are extremely prejudicial toward the E-Force because of your personal situation, a sad state of events for sure, but not the typical scenario. If you want to vent, do so, but present all the facts.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by j_digi454
I don't think anyone said you knowingly drove your Vette with BAP set to zero, just that you did and the end result was a blown engine. Regardless of the reasons, it was set to zero. That fact should have been mentioned to your response to the OP instead of the misleading My engine got destroyed because I had and E-Force installed so beware.

We all know there is a certain risk when you go FI, but your comments are extremely prejudicial toward the E-Force because of your personal situation, a sad state of events for sure, but not the typical scenario. If you want to vent, do so, but present all the facts.
1. I never said I had an E-Force
2. I've said the BAP was off a billion times in other posts, I even have a "destroyed engine" thread
3. My comments are not prejudicial to the E-Force... I'm saying that any time you add a lot of power to a stock engine that wasn't designed for it, you should know it won't last forever. It is typical that boosting your engine will reduce its lifespan.

Last edited by BornSUPERCHARGED; Mar 18, 2011 at 09:51 AM.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by j_digi454
I don't think anyone said you knowingly drove your Vette with BAP set to zero, just that you did and the end result was a blown engine. Regardless of the reasons, it was set to zero. That fact should have been mentioned to your response to the OP instead of the misleading My engine got destroyed because I had and E-Force installed so beware.

We all know there is a certain risk when you go FI, but your comments are extremely prejudicial toward the E-Force because of your personal situation, a sad state of events for sure, but not the typical scenario. If you want to vent, do so, but present all the facts.
To clarify a bit more, I have the A&A kit, not the E-Force. I was running 8psi boost at peak. I'm not the only person to have an engine die, do a search and you'll find plenty of threads over the past year. These are only the people who post up, there are surely a lot more that don't want you guys ragging on them or feeling stupid because of their money spent into overpowering an engine that died.

I was not venting in my original posts in this thread, I was making the OP aware of the risks involved with forced induction.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by simplyphp
1. BAP was off but when you're in boost are you watching the road or are you looking at a gauge?

YOU DAMN WELL SHOULD BE! Fuel pressure and A/F is a MUST on a F/I car, if your not paying attention to those a fuel related meltdown is indeed your fault!

Originally Posted by SinisterC6
I like being blown

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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by simplyphp
[b]

Do you guys really think that I knowingly drove my car with the boost a pump off? It was something I realized after the engine blew, I never touched it and had it been soldered like A&A recommends, it wouldn't have been a potential factor in this whole thing. I paid a lot of money and trusted 100% in the shop to make my build last, I definitely did not fudge with any work they did, and I even took my car there for the oil changes because they're great guys.


Someone else took the words out of my mouth, but no, I don't think you intentionally set your BAP to "0". But the fact is that the circumstances in which your motor blew are not normal. They were caused by outside influence, either by someone detailing the car, another shop, etc. Basically, whoever turned off the BAP is the main cause of your engine going KABOOM.

I felt the need to step in because this guy (OP) is looking at going FI, and you are giving him the whole "your motor can blow at any time" thing. But you are leaving out a huge piece of the puzzle, and I feel it to be kind of misleading to those who didn't read your engine failure thread.

I will also add that there have been other engine failures, but almost all others were making a bunch more power, or being beaten on very hard for many, many miles (powerlabs comes to mind).

Last edited by Streetk14; Mar 18, 2011 at 10:11 AM.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by breecher_7
YOU DAMN WELL SHOULD BE! Fuel pressure and A/F is a MUST on a F/I car, if your not paying attention to those a fuel related meltdown is indeed your fault!


Taylor@Dallas Performance said it was related to the transmission and that going lean would not have caused that bad of a failure. Anyway, I guess I'll still respond to your comment - When you are down on the gas, you can glance at it but you are not going to be paying full attention to just the gauge. You have to keep your eyes on the road and hands on the steering wheel. I've already mentioned the new setup I'm going to have, which will make it apparent to me if I am running lean.

Also, side note - fuel pressure and boost are the two most common gauges when you get a supercharger installed. AFR is not as common and it was never recommended to me to have it when I got my supercharger installed.

Originally Posted by Streetk14
Someone else took the words out of my mouth, but no, I don't think you intentionally set your BAP to "0". But the fact is that the circumstances in which your motor blew are not normal. They were caused by outside influence, either by someone detailing the car, another shop, etc. Basically, whoever turned off the BAP is the main cause of your engine going KABOOM.

I felt the need to step in because this guy (OP) is looking at going FI, and you are giving him the whole "your motor can blow at any time" thing. But you are leaving out a huge piece of the puzzle, and I feel it to be kind of misleading to those who didn't read your engine failure thread.

I will also add that there have been other engine failures, but almost all others were making a bunch more power, or being beaten on very hard for many, many miles (powerlabs comes to mind).
Sorry, the real world says there will always be outside influences. Bad gas, BAP off, wearing clutches, bad tune for either engine or transmission, etc. etc.

I am indeed giving him the "your motor can blow at any time" thing because it's true. To pretend like it can't happen to you, is to be naive. Trust me, I thought it wouldn't happen to me because I had a conservative tune by one of the best in the business.

But if you guys want to convince yourselves that nothing bad will happen to you, feel free, I'll even pull the curtain for you.

Last edited by BornSUPERCHARGED; Mar 18, 2011 at 10:14 AM.
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by JFKLS3
Quite a debate going on here....
I basically wanted to know about the predicted reliability of the E-Force
on a 34k miles car, not the
sc, but the car itself. I will not be abusing it. Just do not want to have problems down the line.....
Let me know if and when you get it done, I am in Normal and would love to take a look at it



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