700-800 rwhp: What fuel injectors & pump(s) w/out a full blown system (budget)?
05-02-2011, 04:28 PM
#81
Supporting Vendor
We do not pre-package parts with our pumps.
Each application is unique so adding parts that a customer may not need is a waste of money. Some off-shore generic pumps come this way because they falsely assume one kit suites many applications. You are able to pick the correct parts for your application in our web store.
Each application is unique so adding parts that a customer may not need is a waste of money. Some off-shore generic pumps come this way because they falsely assume one kit suites many applications. You are able to pick the correct parts for your application in our web store.
05-04-2011, 04:14 PM
#83
Wow...I can't believe it's coming up on a year since the new motor and I have yet to do anything about my fuel problem. With that being said, I haven't had a full tune because I don't have a fuel pump to keep up with the fuel demand. I have been out of the game, meaning I haven't kept up with any of the threads floating around in this section since then. So if anything new has come out within the last year for fuel pump(s)/systems, I have completely missed out.
So...I'm looking to make anywhere from 700-800 rwhp. I currently have a completely stock fuel system other than injectors, which aren't going to be big enough anyway. I need recommendations on injectors (brand & size) and a fuel pump(s). I know the last time I was researching this, there were a few who were doing twin in-tank Walbros, Racetronix wiring harness, some fuel line, and a couple of stainless steel clamps for under $300 supporting 1000 rwhp or so. It was also a pretty popular time for the House of Boost fuel system, but with a pretty hefty price tag. Lastly, I ran into Aeromotive's in-tank fuel pump as well, but from what I remember, you still had to plumb a full system in order for it to work. Right now funds are extremely tight, so I want to be able to replace the pump and injectors only, retaining all else.
Anyhow, so in short words, I'm looking for recommendations on injectors to support between 700-800 rwhp and a budget fuel pump(s)/system that will support the power mentioned above. I'm not looking to do a full blown system, but rather get away with just doing injectors and the pump(s). Any/all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
So...I'm looking to make anywhere from 700-800 rwhp. I currently have a completely stock fuel system other than injectors, which aren't going to be big enough anyway. I need recommendations on injectors (brand & size) and a fuel pump(s). I know the last time I was researching this, there were a few who were doing twin in-tank Walbros, Racetronix wiring harness, some fuel line, and a couple of stainless steel clamps for under $300 supporting 1000 rwhp or so. It was also a pretty popular time for the House of Boost fuel system, but with a pretty hefty price tag. Lastly, I ran into Aeromotive's in-tank fuel pump as well, but from what I remember, you still had to plumb a full system in order for it to work. Right now funds are extremely tight, so I want to be able to replace the pump and injectors only, retaining all else.
Anyhow, so in short words, I'm looking for recommendations on injectors to support between 700-800 rwhp and a budget fuel pump(s)/system that will support the power mentioned above. I'm not looking to do a full blown system, but rather get away with just doing injectors and the pump(s). Any/all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Or you could get all the parts below. And make your own Stage 2/3 full returnstyle fuel system with boost reference for fuel pressure and for the 2nd pump to turn on under boost for $925 in todays dollars. This list below is all the parts I needed to make it happen on my own with my GTO. My old 60lb injectors were handling 800rwhp on a twin turbo set up with this robust returnstyle setup w/no meth. I held over 80psi FP till 6800rpms @ 800rwhp with this fuel system. You don't even have to use the $150 aftermarket fuel rails. But It makes it easier since you don't have to tap into the stock rails, looks good too.
This will take you a good 8 hours with the help of a competent friend if you don't forget any parts. I can get Summit parts next day so that helped me figure this set up out on my own.
Parts list
[B]Home Depot:[/B ] $5.77
Part: 048643072169 Reducer for hobbs switch $2.48
Part: 048643070592 Barb for reducer on hobbs switch $2.91
Lowes:$2.58
Part: 27971 3/8” ID barb x 3/8” $2.58
Teflon tape rated for gasoline
Autozone: $5.49
Part 163253 12 gauge primary wire $5.49
Jegs: $12.67
(2) - Part number 055100409 3/*” NPT plug $7.98
-8AN female swivel x 3/8” $4.69
Summit Racing$288.37
MRG-2961 Y-FUEL BLOCK $20.02
RNB-86124 GROMMET 1/2OD X 3/8ID $2.25
SUM-230116 -8 BILLET 10 MIC FUEL FILTER $61.15
SUM-230820 S.S. BRAIDED HOSE-8 20FT $76.45
EAR-983308ERL -8 90 DEG. BULKHEAD FITTING $12.95
EAR-9893068ERL FLARE EXPANDER 6-8AN $13.99
EAR-991403ERL 3/8 NPT 90 DEG. ST. ELBOW $18.95
SUM-220672 3/8" NPT MALE PIPE UNION $4.99
SUM-220890 (5) 8AN HOSE END STRAIGHT $34.75
AER-FBM2037 -8 AN TO 3/8NPT 90DEG ADAPTER $6.97
EAR-818008ERL -8 180 DEGREE SWIVEL-SEAL $21.55
RUS-640850 EFI TO 6 AN FITTING $14.35
Speed INC:$140
IZM10614 LS2 Budget Fuel Rail complete Kit $140
New Era Performance$200
(2) Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump $200
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.co...E&PKV=gto340|0
Auto Performance Engineering- $21.00
FPWire-42 Wiring pigtail w/ butt connect $6.00
Foam-Sm Thin Foam sleeve for fuel pump (2) $2.00
Wal28 six-inch piece of 5/16 ID high (3) $9.00
-pressure, in-tank hose
135B pickup filter for 242/307/340 $4.00
Grand total $675.88 (November/2009 prices)
MISC
Hobbs switch of your choice $30
FPR of your choice $140+
Last edited by APSGTO; 05-04-2011 at 04:19 PM.
05-04-2011, 05:22 PM
#84
It is assumed that if you are buying these parts for a DIY project you have the tools, skills and knowledge to put it together. There is simply too wide a variation in a customer skill, tools and knowledge to support custom builds like this and guarantee a successful, problem-free assembly.
If you are skeptical about this project perhaps you may consider a complete drop-in, tested and proven dual in-tank system from Lonnie's Performance. Most Vette owners do not mind spending a bit more money to guarantee their motors will get enough reliable fuel considering their drivetrain investments.
If you are skeptical about this project perhaps you may consider a complete drop-in, tested and proven dual in-tank system from Lonnie's Performance. Most Vette owners do not mind spending a bit more money to guarantee their motors will get enough reliable fuel considering their drivetrain investments.
-Make sure your tank is nearly empty before you remove it.
-The list I gave you is for a GTO but you can see how "KISS" the pluming side of it is.
-Get the ractronix harness, you'll have to run the power line from the engine bay. Throught the inside of the car.
-If you have a boost gauge you can tap it for a boost reference point for the hobbs switch.
You should read these threads before you decide to start this on your own.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=349963
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...mp+returnstyle
Try mocking up the fuel lines before pulling the tank. This could save you down time. The exact make up of the C6 fuel bucket should be found on this forum somewere.
Last edited by APSGTO; 05-04-2011 at 05:26 PM.
05-04-2011, 05:55 PM
#85
Safety Car
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: TEXOMA
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
im not 100% because my ID1000's went from my fast 92 back to my stock ls2 so many times while i was trying to decide which manifold i wanted to run, but i think i ended up ditching the o-rings that came with the ID1000's and went with the orings from my stock ls2 injectors. i remember installing an injector and she would not give me that positive seal, changed orings and it popd it nice and secure.
-Carl
-Carl
