Noisy E-Force Blower
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 212
Likes: 1
From: Dallas TX
Mrgillies, may be worth a try, but I've been told that the contact problem predated the C6, and I did take a piece of shirt cardboard and run it left to right between the blower and firewall. No apparent contact when motor at rest.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,820
Likes: 411
From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
Its definitely not normal to have noises like that. Mine has been on for about 1000 miles now and I haven't heard anything unusual. As was mentioned they added installing spacers for added firewall clearance but I'm not sure if that is just an LS2 issue. Good luck in solving the issue and please keep us posted. Its funny how once I start reading a thread I always want to know the outcome, even if its not relevant to my car.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
Installed carboard between SC and firewall and ran the vehicle, no change in tone
I have Beehive installed, made sure there was no rubbing contact
I have noticed that if the I'm in neutral and rev the engine, the noise/vibration isnt there.
My issue must therefore lie in the exhaust system
Steve
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas Nevada
St. Jude Donor '12
Not necessarily...
When you free rev the motor, the load isnt there. The lack of load causes the blower to stay predominently in vacuum. You may touch on the boost when you rap the throttle, but regular reving keeps the blower in vacuum. You "Might" only be seeing this when the motor is either at close to boost, or actually in boost. You need to check and see if it is boost dependent.
For the purposes of testing, you can force the bypass closed, keeping the blower in boost. We do this by putting a ziptie on the bypass plunger. Then re-test your rev procedure. You can also drive for a half mile or so. Just do not push the car for more than about a mile.
constant boost at low throttle position can prematurely overheat the head unit and damage it if you drive any length. A mile or so is perfectly fine.
Jennifer
When you free rev the motor, the load isnt there. The lack of load causes the blower to stay predominently in vacuum. You may touch on the boost when you rap the throttle, but regular reving keeps the blower in vacuum. You "Might" only be seeing this when the motor is either at close to boost, or actually in boost. You need to check and see if it is boost dependent.
For the purposes of testing, you can force the bypass closed, keeping the blower in boost. We do this by putting a ziptie on the bypass plunger. Then re-test your rev procedure. You can also drive for a half mile or so. Just do not push the car for more than about a mile.
constant boost at low throttle position can prematurely overheat the head unit and damage it if you drive any length. A mile or so is perfectly fine.
Jennifer
I have a noise as well, here is what I've done so far:
Installed carboard between SC and firewall and ran the vehicle, no change in tone
I have Beehive installed, made sure there was no rubbing contact
I have noticed that if the I'm in neutral and rev the engine, the noise/vibration isnt there.
My issue must therefore lie in the exhaust system
Steve
Installed carboard between SC and firewall and ran the vehicle, no change in tone
I have Beehive installed, made sure there was no rubbing contact
I have noticed that if the I'm in neutral and rev the engine, the noise/vibration isnt there.
My issue must therefore lie in the exhaust system
Steve
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
Great tip, but no joy, SC sounds great when not driving, holding it open (zip tie) and reving past 4K there is no noise apart from the lovely SC sound, so it must be something like the exhaust
Hey 71'Airstike, we're neigbours...
Hey 71'Airstike, we're neigbours...
Racer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 361
Likes: 4
From: Chandler AZ
I have been thinking about installing the E-Force on my 11 GS, but from this thread it sounds like A&A is the way to go. SC's should not make these type of noises. It may be an external issue, but don't want to be in the R&D group for any supplier ! These units have been on the market for a couple of years, so I would expect these type of issues would be resolved by now.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
Well I'm at my wits end, I have taken both coil brackets off, checked the SC is on the head correctly, tucked the wires under the the top part of the coil bracket (per instructions) made sure injectors are not making contact with anything, all other pipework (brake booster, pcv intercooler return and fuel) are clear and not obstructing anything.
Checked my exhaust and that is clear and tight from manifold down.
To be more descriptive here is what I'm hearing
Low power demand <15% : No noise whatsoever in all RPM's
Medium power demand <30% : Water bubling sound in front of dashboard
Higher >30% : Vibration sound, coming from front of dashboard, possible water hammer?
So from this, It sure seems like the intercooler return could be a possible suspect, I have checked the intercooler pipework and it all looks clear, where the both return line goes round the rear there it does contact the rear firewall but there is no way around this, it does move freely up and down though. I have also ran the engine with the cap off the intercooler resevoir to remove any air pockets, you would have thought they would be gone by now seeing as its a closed system with supply from the bottom of the tank.
Any ideas?
Steve
Checked my exhaust and that is clear and tight from manifold down.
To be more descriptive here is what I'm hearing
Low power demand <15% : No noise whatsoever in all RPM's
Medium power demand <30% : Water bubling sound in front of dashboard
Higher >30% : Vibration sound, coming from front of dashboard, possible water hammer?
So from this, It sure seems like the intercooler return could be a possible suspect, I have checked the intercooler pipework and it all looks clear, where the both return line goes round the rear there it does contact the rear firewall but there is no way around this, it does move freely up and down though. I have also ran the engine with the cap off the intercooler resevoir to remove any air pockets, you would have thought they would be gone by now seeing as its a closed system with supply from the bottom of the tank.
Any ideas?
Steve
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Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
I have been thinking about installing the E-Force on my 11 GS, but from this thread it sounds like A&A is the way to go. SC's should not make these type of noises. It may be an external issue, but don't want to be in the R&D group for any supplier ! These units have been on the market for a couple of years, so I would expect these type of issues would be resolved by now.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Long Island New York
Pick your poison... T-Trim at idle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNbQy...e_gdata_player
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
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From: Kalamazoo MI
Ok, time for an update, called edelbrock who were extrmely helpful, they have probably hit the hammer on the head for me anyway, we discussed my install and I told them I replaced my radiator and that noise I'm hearing is most likely air trapped in the engine, the noise could be coming from the heater coil inside the dash, so the system requires to be bled, so I'm going to try that, I'll keep you posted once I work out how to do that.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,820
Likes: 411
From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
Ok, time for an update, called edelbrock who were extrmely helpful, they have probably hit the hammer on the head for me anyway, we discussed my install and I told them I replaced my radiator and that noise I'm hearing is most likely air trapped in the engine, the noise could be coming from the heater coil inside the dash, so the system requires to be bled, so I'm going to try that, I'll keep you posted once I work out how to do that.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
In case anyone wondering how to purge air out the "closed system"
From Motorhead-47:
Simple technique to purge air from the cooling system. …There are two hoses on the overflow tank. Follow the smaller/upper one until you reach it’s junction point. Remove that connection. Fill the overflow tank and put the cap on tight. Blow into the overflow tank via the line that your removed. This will force coolant from the overflow tank into the cooling system. When the tank is empty, refill and repeat. Continue doing this until fluid begins to exit from the other end of that hose connection you removed. Reinstall hose. DONE! Works like a charm!
Typical Motorhead-47 to know everything...
Steve
From Motorhead-47:
Simple technique to purge air from the cooling system. …There are two hoses on the overflow tank. Follow the smaller/upper one until you reach it’s junction point. Remove that connection. Fill the overflow tank and put the cap on tight. Blow into the overflow tank via the line that your removed. This will force coolant from the overflow tank into the cooling system. When the tank is empty, refill and repeat. Continue doing this until fluid begins to exit from the other end of that hose connection you removed. Reinstall hose. DONE! Works like a charm!
Typical Motorhead-47 to know everything...
Steve
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,502
Likes: 82
In case anyone wondering how to purge air out the "closed system"
From Motorhead-47:
Simple technique to purge air from the cooling system. …There are two hoses on the overflow tank. Follow the smaller/upper one until you reach it’s junction point. Remove that connection. Fill the overflow tank and put the cap on tight. Blow into the overflow tank via the line that your removed. This will force coolant from the overflow tank into the cooling system. When the tank is empty, refill and repeat. Continue doing this until fluid begins to exit from the other end of that hose connection you removed. Reinstall hose. DONE! Works like a charm!
Typical Motorhead-47 to know everything...
Steve
From Motorhead-47:
Simple technique to purge air from the cooling system. …There are two hoses on the overflow tank. Follow the smaller/upper one until you reach it’s junction point. Remove that connection. Fill the overflow tank and put the cap on tight. Blow into the overflow tank via the line that your removed. This will force coolant from the overflow tank into the cooling system. When the tank is empty, refill and repeat. Continue doing this until fluid begins to exit from the other end of that hose connection you removed. Reinstall hose. DONE! Works like a charm!
Typical Motorhead-47 to know everything...
Steve
I wrote that one quite a while back. You can call it shadetree or hillbilly or ghetto but the fact is it is a simple and effective way to fill the cooling system. Just a couple of additional details...you are following that upper line along the top of the radiator until you reach a "T" junction. That is where you disconnect it. Obviously you want to do this with the car cool. After X evolutions of fill, blow, purge, fill...you'll know it is full when coolant starts to burble out of the "T" fitting. After I'm all done I usually fill the coolant tank about 3/4 full and drive the car and then recheck. I also recheck again after the car has had a chance to cool down completely. It works! I've done this way at least a dozen times and never had an issue and rarely add more than a couple of ounces after the cool down recheck....sometimes get some funny looks from friends as I do this though!
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
I wrote that one quite a while back. You can call it shadetree or hillbilly or ghetto but the fact is it is a simple and effective way to fill the cooling system. Just a couple of additional details...you are following that upper line along the top of the radiator until you reach a "T" junction. That is where you disconnect it. Obviously you want to do this with the car cool. After X evolutions of fill, blow, purge, fill...you'll know it is full when coolant starts to burble out of the "T" fitting. After I'm all done I usually fill the coolant tank about 3/4 full and drive the car and then recheck. I also recheck again after the car has had a chance to cool down completely. It works! I've done this way at least a dozen times and never had an issue and rarely add more than a couple of ounces after the cool down recheck....sometimes get some funny looks from friends as I do this though!
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,502
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Race Director
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Out Where the Buses Don't Run, Eglin AFB/ Niceville FL
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2020 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I wrote that one quite a while back. You can call it shadetree or hillbilly or ghetto but the fact is it is a simple and effective way to fill the cooling system. Just a couple of additional details...you are following that upper line along the top of the radiator until you reach a "T" junction. That is where you disconnect it. Obviously you want to do this with the car cool. After X evolutions of fill, blow, purge, fill...you'll know it is full when coolant starts to burble out of the "T" fitting. After I'm all done I usually fill the coolant tank about 3/4 full and drive the car and then recheck. I also recheck again after the car has had a chance to cool down completely. It works! I've done this way at least a dozen times and never had an issue and rarely add more than a couple of ounces after the cool down recheck....sometimes get some funny looks from friends as I do this though!
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
Ah well, thought all was good; purged the vehicle cooling system per instructions for about 5-6 times, test drove the vehicle, for 3-4 mins and all seemed great, then the noise started coming back to the same as before.... 
Maybey I need to purge again?
Maybey I need to purge again?