Fuel heating issues.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Lone Star State
Fuel heating issues.
My fuel seems to be getting hot after about 1 hr of driving and makes this loud whining noise from the external pump that was added. What would be the best reliable fix so that the pump will work only in boost. My thoughts are if your running 2 pumps, only one should be running constant for cruising and then when the boost/power comes into the equation the other pump kicks in for fuel needs.
Besides a cheap hobbs switch/manual switch, is there anything out there that's reliable to do this task and not have to worry about the external pump not coming on when in boost?
Just can't deal with this whining after only 1 hr of driving and a full tank of gas...(Started hearing it this weekend) (I will let Taylor give me some advise when he gets in on Monday)
I read this in another thread:
The fact is that the fuel overheats not the pumps.
Every watt of power that a pump draws is turned into heat in the fuel, plus the extra circulation pushes the fuel through the rails & under the hood picking up additional heat. As the fuel gets hot, it then starts to vaporize as it is drawn into the pumps & this is where the pumps cavitate & car vaporlocks. This can either ruin the pump or at minimum strand you on the side of the road until things cool off.
This is also why pump controllers exist for big external pumps as well.
I would not use a hobbs switch in all my dual pumps if I did not feel it was a good thing to do.
Besides a cheap hobbs switch/manual switch, is there anything out there that's reliable to do this task and not have to worry about the external pump not coming on when in boost?
Just can't deal with this whining after only 1 hr of driving and a full tank of gas...(Started hearing it this weekend) (I will let Taylor give me some advise when he gets in on Monday)
I read this in another thread:
The fact is that the fuel overheats not the pumps.
Every watt of power that a pump draws is turned into heat in the fuel, plus the extra circulation pushes the fuel through the rails & under the hood picking up additional heat. As the fuel gets hot, it then starts to vaporize as it is drawn into the pumps & this is where the pumps cavitate & car vaporlocks. This can either ruin the pump or at minimum strand you on the side of the road until things cool off.
This is also why pump controllers exist for big external pumps as well.
I would not use a hobbs switch in all my dual pumps if I did not feel it was a good thing to do.
Last edited by BADZ; Jul 10, 2011 at 07:45 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,712
Likes: 3
From: TEXOMA
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
run two hobbs switches, or three or four, its the cheapest way. other than that, try looking into the nitrous wot arming switches, or the eletronic controllers, you can set that up to kick on the fuel pump too.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Lone Star State
I'm thinking that these Honeywell switches are much more reliable correct? How is the install, pretty simple?
Also, an LED would be a nice thought to know the pump is on when in boost????
Also, an LED would be a nice thought to know the pump is on when in boost????
Last edited by BADZ; Jul 11, 2011 at 08:09 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,094
Likes: 197
From: Colorado Springs, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
You will not get two to fail at the same time and this is the best way to do it. I run two and have an LED on my gauge pod that lights up bright yellow to indicate parallel pump activation at 4psi which is well before its needed. If you dont see it light in a test, dont go into boost. The LED is wired to the pump's terminals to see if power is there. A wideband also checks a/f. Fuel pressure gauges only check pressure at the rail and dont show in injectors are maxxed ect. A wideband shows everything working from tune to pump.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 907
Likes: 0
I'm assuming Taylor used the Magnafuel pump? If so that one is supposedly "continuous" duty use. If not I would refer to Wledon pumps (ie D2015) and fuel pump switch. Trying to add a switch on the Magnafuel has not worked for me. Weldon would be the easiest way to go Jeff imo. It's a full system, nothing to guess at.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,016
Likes: 93
From: St. Louis, MO
Tech Contributor
If you can't figure out a Hobbs switch, you need to be hit in the head with a tack hammer. Hook up a vacuum line from the manifold to the switch, an use the switch as a trigger for whatever to complete a circuit.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Lone Star State
Ok guy....
Thanks for your input... It was only a question since I don't deal with this all the time. My bad...
Thanks for your input... It was only a question since I don't deal with this all the time. My bad...
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,016
Likes: 93
From: St. Louis, MO
Tech Contributor
It was just a joke to relay how easy they are to work with. They are pretty straight forward. All they are is a switch that closes once a certain pressure is hit.
CF Senior Moments Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
lol I'll be sure to wear a hard hat safety helmet when I come to St. Louis - for trying to get some help with tuning!!
