carlrx7

thanks mr and mrs hijack! lol

today i experimented with the exhaust wrap. decided to not do the flex sections, and the fact that i sucks up like 60" of wrap which i only ordered so much.

just need to pick up some 2.5" clamps from the hardware store. yes i know those zip ties wont work. lol



also picked up a m10 x 1.25 tap and some cutting disc, ready for a big day tomorrow. i have nothing planned this weekend but to try and finish this!


-Carl

DSteck

I have about four feet of leftover wrap from my DEI turbo blankets if you want to buy it. I actually have another DEI blanket new in the package if you wanna buy that cheap too. Amazon had the best price on the DEI blankets.

BADZ

looking good....

tail_lights

In for updates

carlrx7

Is it the Titanium wrap? just checked out amazon, good deals, same price as summit, but with no 9.95 handling fee's

flyinmedic

Looking good, in for updates and some #'s

5 Liter Eater

So I'm assuming you spent the entire weekend in the garage and have lots of updates for us right Carl?

White_Lightning

why send entier weekend in garage???




BECAUSE RACE CAR!!

carlrx7

i wish that was the case, but a couple bbq's popped up along with a run in with the law that pretty much side tracked my whole weekend,

goal today is to clean the rust off the manifold and put on the exhaust wrap then take off the fenders. its just so damn hot in my garage right now.

-Carl

DSteck

You want that blanket and wrap Carl? It's the Titanium wrap.

harlanmott3

in for updates

carlrx7

ok, well its been awhile. but i managed to turn some wrenches on the car these past couple of days.

the problem with me is that im a perfectionist and if its not 100% im not satisfied.

so that lead me to cleaning a ceramic coating the manifold with VHT 2000 paint.





then i got the passenger side installed, goto mount of the uppipe and the bolt holes dont line up, bust out the air grinder and widen them out to go over the studs.

then i positioned the turbo on the up pipe and had to rebend the bracket and then i could mark and tap the frame.

then after having the up pipe installed and turbo on top, i goto install the downpipe. do a little grinding, but then you have to snake the pipe inbetween the uppipe and the frame. so off goes the turbo, diconnect uppipe from frame, snake in downpipe, redo it all again.

then my kooks 3"x3" catted x pipe needed to come out and of course that wasn't happy about leaving the car, so today i put a cargo strap inbetween the x-pipe and attached to the subframe of the car and pulled it tight, had to use a oil filter wrench to seperate from the axel back,, nothing to do with installing the kit, but that just goes to show you what kind of day i was having. lol

so that leaves me here.





so since i see where the exhaust is now routed, i finished relocating the battery and connecting to the starter then to the fusebox, like how it is stock. if you dont remember i have my own 1awg relocation kit and i ended up grounding upfront as well with some left over 2awg from my old speaker kit.

tomorrows goal.

remove drivers side fender,

install up pipe

install turbo

install down pipe.

......

-Carl

Slo-Poc

Good job so far! Keep is updated!

0CK@UPPCOS

Carl,

From what we've seen, it helps to loosely "preassemble" everything (leaving the bolts semi-loose) and with the help of a friend, lift the whole assembly into place at once, this way you can be assure everything lines up before you drill and tap the frame.


CK

carlrx7

templates would be perfect on where to drill and tap the initial bolt, there are several bolt holes in those locations on where to line it all up, templates could be made of simple paper. its just a confidence thing, im still not 100% sure that the turbo is in the right location.

Other templates on what to cut to help clearance the turbo and downpipe, its no big deal for a shop that does it alot, but would be a tremendous help to the average joe.

again, nothing i can't handle, just some notes that would help.

0CK@UPPCOS

I've looked at doing that, but what I'm affraid of is that we my have slight variances on our end in terms of .1 degrees when building these kits, and that could equate to 1/2" over the span of the kit. Having and exact mounting point wouldn't allow for adjustability. I've seen this with alot of other kits like Turbonetics, where we had to make some slight modifications and changes, and I was trying to steer away form this entirely. This is another reason why we opted going with v-bands, and flex sections, to allow minor adjustability, and the holes in the turbos should be slightly too large allowing minor movement between the up pipe/turbo. (Not sure what was different on yours that you had to drill it out). And it seems to make a difference with only .25" movement in terms of down pipe fitment. With the installs we've done we've noticed that sometimes when it looks perfect with the turbo and up pipe, the down pipe is a little too close to the frame. This is why we recommend pre-assembling everything so you can mount the entire thing and move it around till there's clearance with everything, and everything fits snug, then marking/drilling/tapping the hole as the final step.

CK

carlrx7

the holes i had to drill were the flange on the up-pipe to the engine manifold.

i can see why now, unless you were cnc'ing every bracket, adjustablility is good.

I think that is the case with my downpipe too. hot exhaust on frame = not good.

how much do round trip tickets from colorado to charleston cost? lol

-Carl

0CK@UPPCOS

I'm always down for a vacation!

And yea, I did notice that sometimes those were tight, we're using a basic 2.5" "standard" 2bolt on there right now, I'm trying to get some actual exact mated ones water jetted for the C6/camaro now.

CK

carlrx7

email sent

396375

Nice build.Looks like you are doing everything right.I'm interested to see how long the paint will last on the manifolds.Turbos are really tough on coatings.
Good luck.