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We usually add our vacuum block on the brake booster hose, but there is also a vacuum hose on the front right of the charger that can be tapped into.
Thanks Doug...bear with me for a second on this thought though..I don't think either of those locations ever sees boost with the Edelbrock. Correct me if I am wrong but are not both of those upstream of the supercharger rotors before any compressing of the intake charge takes place? Don't I need a location downstream of the rotors?
From: Providing the most proven supercharger kits for your C5/6/7 609-752-0321
Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Thanks Doug...bear with me for a second on this thought though..I don't think either of those locations ever sees boost with the Edelbrock. Correct me if I am wrong but are not both of those upstream of the supercharger rotors before any compressing of the intake charge takes place? Don't I need a location downstream of the rotors?
I use that location to plug into the dyno for a printed boost graph, your good there.
I just installed Kenne Bells Boost-A-Pump with the Recetronics harness, using the 1/8" NPT port located on the driver's side of the E-Force for the Boost Switch. In my case, the boost switch operates at 5 lbs of boost which activates the Boost-A-Pump.
I just installed Kenne Bells Boost-A-Pump with the Recetronics harness, using the 1/8" NPT port located on the driver's side of the E-Force for the Boost Switch. In my case, the boost switch operates at 5 lbs of boost which activates the Boost-A-Pump.
Thanks Joe,
I had pretty much convinced myself that is where I was headed. Just need to find a 1/8" NPT barbed fitting now. You don't happen to have a photo of the install do you?
I just installed Kenne Bells Boost-A-Pump with the Recetronics harness, using the 1/8" NPT port located on the driver's side of the E-Force for the Boost Switch. In my case, the boost switch operates at 5 lbs of boost which activates the Boost-A-Pump.
This too would be my suggestion. You can pick up a brass barb to 1/8" at Home Depot in the brass plumbing section.
I had pretty much convinced myself that is where I was headed. Just need to find a 1/8" NPT barbed fitting now. You don't happen to have a photo of the install do you?
Mine looks like this. Sorry for the crappy pic. Street elbow and barbed fitting
This too would be my suggestion. You can pick up a brass barb to 1/8" at Home Depot in the brass plumbing section.
Stopped by ACE Hardware on the way home and they had no less than 3 different 1/8" NPT barbed fittings! 1/8" x 1/8" nipple, 1/8" x 3/16" nipple and a 1/8" x 1/4". I wasn't sure which one I would need so I bought all 3!
The following pictures show the Hobbs Switch screwed directly into the E-Force 1/8" NPT Port. Output from the Hobbs Switch is cabled to the Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump.
The following pictures show the Hobbs Switch screwed directly into the E-Force 1/8" NPT Port. Output from the Hobbs Switch is cabled to the Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump.
Thanks Joe, I was wondering if that Hobbs had 1/8" NPT or not. Any interference at all with the "Supercharged" wings?
Ken,
I did not test fit the E-Force Coil Covers following the installation of the Hobbs. However, I believe the Hobbs Switch will not interfere with the installation or removal of the coil covers. After my first visit to Bandimere for test and tune, I removed the coil covers and have never replaced them. I actually like the look better without. Without also helps with heat dissipation so I have no plans to ever install the coil covers again. I will probably upgrade the valve covers and coil pack locations and leave the covers in my garage closet.
I would test fit for you but I have removed all Coil Cover mounting hardware and relocated coil pact #7 to accommodate my fuel pressure sensor location. I used Swagelok connectors on both the firewall and fuel rail connections and attached -6AN braided hose with fittings to locate the pressure sensor more in the open away from the firewall or trapped heat. In relocating coil pack #7, I had to remove some of the Coil Cover mounting hardware. Because I had to remove some of the hardware, I just removed it all, and as I mentioned earlier, I like the look without covers.