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Question.
Can the same micro switch used to turn on the methanol under boost be tapped into to turn on the fuel boost pump? Or does the fuel booster pump need it's own micro switch?
Thanks
Question.
Can the same micro switch used to turn on the methanol under boost be tapped into to turn on the fuel boost pump? Or does the fuel booster pump need it's own micro switch?
Thanks
The BAP comes with its own hobbs switch that engages it at a predetermined boost setting. What meth kit are you using? I have an Alky Controller kit on my car and it comes with its own controller to manage the meth engagement. I would think it would be wis to keep two SEPARATE systems for a little more peace of mind. You definitely wouldn't want one switch to fail and lose BOTH your meth AND fuel.
The BAP comes with its own hobbs switch that engages it at a predetermined boost setting. What meth kit are you using? I have an Alky Controller kit on my car and it comes with its own controller to manage the meth engagement. I would think it would be wis to keep two SEPARATE systems for a little more peace of mind. You definitely wouldn't want one switch to fail and lose BOTH your meth AND fuel.
The meth is a AIS Washer mount kit. It has a controler to set when boost comes on. The BAP has a **** to set it at a lean position or a rich position at present it is in the middle position. I was wondering about the voltage to the stock fuel pump being on all the time or only when going into boost to up the voltage to increase the fuel pump out put.
Thanks,
Do you have a Kenne Bell BAP, or an MSD? I have a Kenne Bell, and it is not adjustable. As for voltage, it will be stock alternator voltage untill the BAP turns on in a boost condition. You don't want the voltage ramped up all the time because it will kill the fuel pump real quick.
Do you have a Kenne Bell BAP, or an MSD? I have a Kenne Bell, and it is not adjustable. As for voltage, it will be stock alternator voltage untill the BAP turns on in a boost condition. You don't want the voltage ramped up all the time because it will kill the fuel pump real quick.
It's an A&A Vortech kit....I believe it came with a Kenne Bell BAP. But I'm not sure if it's a MSD. As far I can remember..it was adjustable, I'll have to check it again. It's been on and operating for over 6K miles w/o burning out the fuel pump.
Do you have a Kenne Bell BAP, or an MSD? I have a Kenne Bell, and it is not adjustable. As for voltage, it will be stock alternator voltage untill the BAP turns on in a boost condition. You don't want the voltage ramped up all the time because it will kill the fuel pump real quick.
The Kenne Bell BAP does come with a control panel that is adjustable. If you are smart, you cut the wires to it and solder them together so it is on full power whenever it is activated by the Hobbs switch. That's what I did on my install.
Originally Posted by FastGhost
Question.
Can the same micro switch used to turn on the methanol under boost be tapped into to turn on the fuel boost pump? Or does the fuel booster pump need it's own micro switch?
Thanks
The Boost-a-pump uses a Hobbs switch that closes at 3 psi, I believe. So fuel pump voltage is boosted at 3 psi and above. The methanol system probably uses a MAP sensor that works off a 5 volt reference. I'm assuming you have a progressive meth system, as you should with a centri blower.
The basic 'stage 1' meth systems from AIS use a Hobbs switch that is probably very similar to the BAP switch. A buddy had that system on his Chevelle - basically an on/off switch.
So to sum it up - no you probably can't use the same switch and I wouldn't want to anyway as stated by Rob in an earlier post.
I worked with fastghost on his car, I didn't install it, just helped him out with changing the fuses to 30 amp fuses. He has the Kenne Bell BAP. The switch side wires were shorted, the voltage was being controlled by the adjustable panel. We didn't measure the voltage out of the BAP so I can't say how voltage the pump is getting.
I worked with fastghost on his car, I didn't install it, just helped him out with changing the fuses to 30 amp fuses. He has the Kenne Bell BAP. The switch side wires were shorted, the voltage was being controlled by the adjustable panel. We didn't measure the voltage out of the BAP so I can't say how voltage the pump is getting.
Nick how does Street comment sounds? As I can recall he sound right about my setup.
The Kenne Bell BAP does come with a control panel that is adjustable. If you are smart, you cut the wires to it and solder them together so it is on full power whenever it is activated by the Hobbs switch. That's what I did on my install.
The Boost-a-pump uses a Hobbs switch that closes at 3 psi, I believe. So fuel pump voltage is boosted at 3 psi and above. The methanol system probably uses a MAP sensor that works off a 5 volt reference. I'm assuming you have a progressive meth system, as you should with a centri blower.
The basic 'stage 1' meth systems from AIS use a Hobbs switch that is probably very similar to the BAP switch. A buddy had that system on his Chevelle - basically an on/off switch.
So to sum it up - no you probably can't use the same switch and I wouldn't want to anyway as stated by Rob in an earlier post.
So it sounds like it's set up correctly, but the only way to know is to do a voltage check...
So it sounds like it's set up correctly, but the only way to know is to do a voltage check...
I would get the Hobbs switch for the BAP. Right now you are running a constant higher voltage to the pump, even at idle. What you want is to have a higher voltage when you get into the boost. That's not happening with your current setup.
I would get the Hobbs switch for the BAP. Right now you are running a constant higher voltage to the pump, even at idle. What you want is to have a higher voltage when you get into the boost. That's not happening with your current setup.
Yeah, that's not good. The whole purpose of a BAP is to only increase fuel pump voltage/speed when in boost. Having it increased all the time is going to put a lot more stress on the fuel pump. As it says in the A&A instructions, get rid of the control box and use the supplied Hobbs switch.