C6BIX

I have stock DT and will be putting down 900HP to the wheels. I am not planning on dragging the car but more just roll racing. Should I be ok with no wheel hop? 3 gear rolls?

PowerLabs

For a while. There is no magical number where things are 100% guaranteed to break; that is the whole principle behind modding; the factory designs it to make it to 100K miles with average driving with a certain failure rate. Drive it harder and it will be more likely to break sooner. Make more power and it will be more likely to break sooner. Make a LOT more power and it will be a LOT more likely to break MUCH sooner. But no one can tell you that if you make 901RWHP it WILL break but if you make 899 it will not: It is all statistical probability. Just like smoking

My two cents worth though is that your driveline is worth a lot more money in one piece, and is also a lot cheaper to upgrade than to replace entirely when it explodes. If you budgeted enough money to make 900whp, you should've budgeted the additional money to build up the driveline to take it with some level of reliability (notice I said some because neither your engine nor your transmission or your differential will ever live very long at those power levels if you plan to be using all that power.)

Finally the tires and clutch you chose will also have the biggest impact on the reliability of your driveline since they are the determining factor on how much torque the car really uses.

C6BIX

I drive the car pretty easy.. I had them put a new LS9R clutch put in and I am running the Toyo R888. I plan on doing the DT upgrade next. Just hoping that I can have some fun with it.

Vince99FRC

I roll raced for many years on a stock T56 in my 99 FRC making over 900rwtq on a nitrous setup. I made sure to always granny shift. I finally had to build it when I started to power shift. On kill mode I make more power now, but so far my fully built T56 is holding up with no hiccups..

C6BIX

I plan on just roll racing and i won't be banging gears.. I am just hoping that things will hold up for a while.. I don't drive the car that much and not very hard. But I want to be able to lay it down when i need to.. There are a few Z06 that are putting down 650 that I need to put the smack down on.

winters97gt

Fun+Toyo R888's+900rwhp is not going to happen. You are going to be ice skating. You need to look at a 27-28 inch tall MT tire.

C6BIX

WOw I was told those would be good from a roll...

trapp

Careful Careful.....thats alot of HP. Stock drivetrains are very safe under 500rwhp moderately safe under 600rwhp...but after that you are pushing it. Sticky tires even under 2-3 shifts are alot of stress on the drivetrain...Be patient and wait till upgrade drivetrain for head to head dragging. The adrenaline takes over and BAM....

There is no magical number but the odds are against you with 900hp...

EdwardETraylorIII

Take it from those of us that have had multiple 1,000+ RWHP C5's and C6's. Your drivetrain will be fine for a long time if you 1) don't let it wheel hop, and 2) don't power shift.

With that much power (and assuming matching Torque), just do your races from 76 MPH to 160 MPH in 4th gear. You'll never have to shift and you'll probably beat 99.999% of the cars/bikes you race.

PS: The proper vernacular for what you're trying to say in reference to HP at the wheels is "RWHP."

5 Liter Eater

R888's are good for ~600 RWHP.

I forgot I had my R888's on the other night (I had not taken them off since going road racing). Thought I had my Mickeys on. I was getting on an on-ramp, short shfted into third and when the power came on I got wicked sideways. Scared the crap out of myself. Mickeys or NT05R's FTW.

walhan_qtr

what do you do for the NT05r to make them hook better? at 820whp it was spinning in 2nd gear. but 3rd gear was fine. from your experience will the mickeys be better for the streets? or same as the NT05r? also what psi do you run these at on the streets for better traction? maybe thats my problem!?

sorry to hijack OP but thought it will also help you get better tires

TRINIC5

At 860rwhp, 18 -22psi is best, it will bring up the DIC saying low air pressure at the rear but for just a day of fun on the street its ok and then back to 32psi for the sensors reading.

walhan_qtr

ok I was worried about driving in the streets with them that low. I thought most people say never run any kind of tires that low?? I guess thats the problem then. at 24psi they didnt seem to work very well

5 Liter Eater

I'm not saying MT's or NT05R's are going to dead hook on the street but they are the best things going and R888's aren't in the same league as far as straight line traction.

Streetk14

I'm going to say it's a roll of the dice. I recently had my transmission let go on me, and it's the stronger '08 TR-6060. Most likely my mainshaft that let go, and I'm at 662 rwhp with my current tune. Time for a 30 spline Z06 mainshaft and a C6 Z06 diff for me.

For what it's worth, I've never been to the drag strip with my blower, and don't do any hard acceleration in first gear on the street (not possible on street tires). I run 305/30/19 Potenza RE-11s, which hook up okay in 2nd sometimes and really good in 3rd. My transmission let go just rolling into the throttle in 3rd gear at 45-50 mph. I've been doing a lot of hard 2nd-3rd gear pulls in my car over the last 9 months, with a few 4th gear pulls to high speed. That's really it. No powershifting or other abuse. I'm guilty of nailing 3rd gear pretty hard from time to time, though.

So yeah, if I were you I'd probably throw a '08+ Z06 (or ZR1) draivetrain in the car if you want it to last. I would have rather left my original parts in 1 piece and upgraded before it failed. Just my opinion, of course.