How much boost?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 452
Likes: 6
From: Pinson AL
How much boost?
Hello all,
this is my thinking about the A&A kit I just bought. I would like to run minimal boost at first to learn how the car feels at 6 psi and later on(2-3 years) turn it up. I am at 8K miles and my 12 GS auto is very fast already. Does this make sense to anyone or am I unrealistic about how all of this works?
thanks in advance
joe
this is my thinking about the A&A kit I just bought. I would like to run minimal boost at first to learn how the car feels at 6 psi and later on(2-3 years) turn it up. I am at 8K miles and my 12 GS auto is very fast already. Does this make sense to anyone or am I unrealistic about how all of this works?
thanks in advance
joe
Last edited by PGSJOE; Oct 10, 2012 at 01:05 AM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 39
From: Colorado Springs CO
Hello all,
this is my thinking about the A&A kit I just bought. I would like to run minimal boost at first to learn how the car feels at 6 psi and later on(2-3 years) turn it up. I am at 8K miles and my 12 GS auto is very fast already. Does this make sense to anyone or am I unrealistic about how all of this works?
thanks on advance
joe
this is my thinking about the A&A kit I just bought. I would like to run minimal boost at first to learn how the car feels at 6 psi and later on(2-3 years) turn it up. I am at 8K miles and my 12 GS auto is very fast already. Does this make sense to anyone or am I unrealistic about how all of this works?
thanks on advance
joe
But the 2-3years....yea it's probably going to be more like 2-3 months! Boost is a drug....must have more!
I'd say have an 8psi pulley on order.CK
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 452
Likes: 6
From: Pinson AL
must..... resist.... boost!
one of my best friends has a 2009 shelby making upwards of 822hp and now hates the fact the car is not streetable. I dont want to follow suit and if I start slowly it will take me a while to max the setup without causing $$$$$$$$$problems.
gotta get better rear tires for sure the run flat badyears spin now, adding hp will render them useless I think.
one of my best friends has a 2009 shelby making upwards of 822hp and now hates the fact the car is not streetable. I dont want to follow suit and if I start slowly it will take me a while to max the setup without causing $$$$$$$$$problems.
gotta get better rear tires for sure the run flat badyears spin now, adding hp will render them useless I think.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 1
From: tacoma wa
your thinking is sound! I love my vette at 600rwhp, still somewhat controllable. =fun, my 1000rwhp Javelin well it is no fun to drive on the street. it will catch you off guard at the worst times. i turn it down to 700 for the street.
my vette runs 11.80 at 133, to fast for NHRA rules and lack of all the safety equip. i limit it with the ECU to 100mph, so it runs 11.70 @100 so i can bracket race.
my vette runs 11.80 at 133, to fast for NHRA rules and lack of all the safety equip. i limit it with the ECU to 100mph, so it runs 11.70 @100 so i can bracket race.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 98
Likes: 1
I started off at approx. 10psi this season, 3.5" pulley on the v3 si trim. I didn't have any trouble with it as far as loosing control, and I'm already planning on running a smaller pulley next season, so I'd say that I wish that I'd have gone with the smaller pulley right away. Food for thought - pick the boost/ pulley you want, turn traction control off, leave active handling on, point the car straight, and hammer down.
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,076
Likes: 224
I would start with the 3.8 pulley that we sent in your kit and plan on getting some R-compound drag radials. It will help make the car safer with much better traction and just learn to drive where it is.
Whenever you decide you need more then work your way up a little at a time. I've found the "sweet spot" for a street driven vette is around 600-650rwhp with sticky tires.
That means it's still able to hook-up well, run hard, and still be driven more months out of the year than it's in the shop, lol.
Some of you guys that have gone big, can understand what I mean by that.
Whenever you decide you need more then work your way up a little at a time. I've found the "sweet spot" for a street driven vette is around 600-650rwhp with sticky tires.
That means it's still able to hook-up well, run hard, and still be driven more months out of the year than it's in the shop, lol.
Some of you guys that have gone big, can understand what I mean by that.
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Sales Manager at A&A Corvette
PLEASE TAKE A MOMENT TO VISIT OUR NEW WEBSITE AT WWW.AACORVETTE.COM
NOW PARTNERING WITH AFFIRM TO OFFER INTEREST FREE FINANCING!
A&A CORVETTE PERFORMANCE
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 1
From: tacoma wa
I would start with the 3.8 pulley that we sent in your kit and plan on getting some R-compound drag radials. It will help make the car safer with much better traction and just learn to drive where it is.
Whenever you decide you need more then work your way up a little at a time. I've found the "sweet spot" for a street driven vette is around 600-650rwhp with sticky tires.
That means it's still able to hook-up well, run hard, and still be driven more months out of the year than it's in the shop, lol.
Some of you guys that have gone big, can understand what I mean by that.
Whenever you decide you need more then work your way up a little at a time. I've found the "sweet spot" for a street driven vette is around 600-650rwhp with sticky tires.
That means it's still able to hook-up well, run hard, and still be driven more months out of the year than it's in the shop, lol.
Some of you guys that have gone big, can understand what I mean by that.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 452
Likes: 6
From: Pinson AL
Thanks guys, Im new to all of this so dont want to screw up the car, or me(especially me).
I will follow Josh's advice but keep it on the low end of things. Will probably get some michelins for the back because I will never go to a track and I have no intention of street racing, just wanted a little more. One local tuner told me 6-8 lbs boost and a conservative tune is a great way to start off and another told me max it out and that is why I turned to you all, who better than fellow vette owners with FI cars.
Keep posting guys this is very helpful to a nube like me,
How is the boost level adjusted? by the BOV or pulley size?
Joe
I will follow Josh's advice but keep it on the low end of things. Will probably get some michelins for the back because I will never go to a track and I have no intention of street racing, just wanted a little more. One local tuner told me 6-8 lbs boost and a conservative tune is a great way to start off and another told me max it out and that is why I turned to you all, who better than fellow vette owners with FI cars.
Keep posting guys this is very helpful to a nube like me,
How is the boost level adjusted? by the BOV or pulley size?
Joe
Last edited by PGSJOE; Oct 10, 2012 at 06:10 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
The good thing about centrifugal superchargers is they build boost in a really linear way. Power is pretty much linked to rpm. Makes it easier to stay out of trouble on the street, unlike your friend's Shelby. Should be docile until you stomp it and the trans drops a few gears. Just gotta watch out for it breaking traction on the top end.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 452
Likes: 6
From: Pinson AL
Yes that is a MAJOR concern for me as it scares the crap out o me when it does break loose, even Richards shelbly is somewhat controllable but my(I guess all) vette does it violently and equally unexpectedly. Mine is an auto, did not want to row gears all the time, my last car was a GT and was 5 speed and while fun - i got into a lot of trouble with it.
What is the secret to the TCS button with all the settings? Is active handling mode a good way to raise cane with out spilling? I suppose I should read the book on this subject too. I will get Michelins or another sticky tire for at least the rear so it will grip a little better. Any advice on this beside the R compound drag radials?
What is the secret to the TCS button with all the settings? Is active handling mode a good way to raise cane with out spilling? I suppose I should read the book on this subject too. I will get Michelins or another sticky tire for at least the rear so it will grip a little better. Any advice on this beside the R compound drag radials?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,412
Likes: 198
From: Wilkes-Barre Pa
Yes that is a MAJOR concern for me as it scares the crap out o me when it does break loose, even Richards shelbly is somewhat controllable but my(I guess all) vette does it violently and equally unexpectedly. Mine is an auto, did not want to row gears all the time, my last car was a GT and was 5 speed and while fun - i got into a lot of trouble with it.
What is the secret to the TCS button with all the settings? Is active handling mode a good way to raise cane with out spilling? I suppose I should read the book on this subject too. I will get Michelins or another sticky tire for at least the rear so it will grip a little better. Any advice on this beside the R compound drag radials?
What is the secret to the TCS button with all the settings? Is active handling mode a good way to raise cane with out spilling? I suppose I should read the book on this subject too. I will get Michelins or another sticky tire for at least the rear so it will grip a little better. Any advice on this beside the R compound drag radials?
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 98
Likes: 1
I would start with the 3.8 pulley that we sent in your kit and plan on getting some R-compound drag radials. It will help make the car safer with much better traction and just learn to drive where it is.
Whenever you decide you need more then work your way up a little at a time. I've found the "sweet spot" for a street driven vette is around 600-650rwhp with sticky tires.
That means it's still able to hook-up well, run hard, and still be driven more months out of the year than it's in the shop, lol.
Some of you guys that have gone big, can understand what I mean by that.
Whenever you decide you need more then work your way up a little at a time. I've found the "sweet spot" for a street driven vette is around 600-650rwhp with sticky tires.
That means it's still able to hook-up well, run hard, and still be driven more months out of the year than it's in the shop, lol.
Some of you guys that have gone big, can understand what I mean by that.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 972
Likes: 11
From: Dawsonville, GA
I had to run headers, Fast intake and meth to get my LS2 to the 636rwhp mark... and I agree... it seems to be a "sweet spot" with the automatic.
It's still docile as a kitten during normal driving... but runs like a beast when I need it.
I can be rolling along at 65mph and still spin tires when I floor it and the trans downshifts. As long as the tires and temps are warm, it will just haze them and get a little squirrelly for a second or two. If it's cold out... all bets are off and it could be downright dangerous to drive near the edge of traction.
FYI... I am also running the V3 Si trim... but I used the 3.4" pulley and have 12psi boost.
It's still docile as a kitten during normal driving... but runs like a beast when I need it.
I can be rolling along at 65mph and still spin tires when I floor it and the trans downshifts. As long as the tires and temps are warm, it will just haze them and get a little squirrelly for a second or two. If it's cold out... all bets are off and it could be downright dangerous to drive near the edge of traction.
FYI... I am also running the V3 Si trim... but I used the 3.4" pulley and have 12psi boost.
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,076
Likes: 224
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
Yes that is a MAJOR concern for me as it scares the crap out o me when it does break loose, even Richards shelbly is somewhat controllable but my(I guess all) vette does it violently and equally unexpectedly. Mine is an auto, did not want to row gears all the time, my last car was a GT and was 5 speed and while fun - i got into a lot of trouble with it.
What is the secret to the TCS button with all the settings? Is active handling mode a good way to raise cane with out spilling? I suppose I should read the book on this subject too. I will get Michelins or another sticky tire for at least the rear so it will grip a little better. Any advice on this beside the R compound drag radials?
What is the secret to the TCS button with all the settings? Is active handling mode a good way to raise cane with out spilling? I suppose I should read the book on this subject too. I will get Michelins or another sticky tire for at least the rear so it will grip a little better. Any advice on this beside the R compound drag radials?
I'd recommend a Bridgestone RE11, but they don't make those in the GS sizes right now. Without going with an R-compound, the best you're probably going to get is something like the new Michelin Pilot Super Sport. They are stickier and longer lasting than the PS2, but don't come in a run-flat. I have them on the back of my 3-series, and they flat out grip in the dry or wet.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 452
Likes: 6
From: Pinson AL
Guys I can't begin to thank all of you for the great input and various outlooks on this subject. I am liking the idea of the 3.8" pully for "beginners"(me) and will go with the Michelin Pilot SS. I keep looking at the front door waiting for Christmas in October via FeDex/UPS and oh yeah, one more on along list to come....
one tuner want me to buy a ZR1 Map sensor and the other says not needed(but he wants 650 and the other guy 350 + 100 for sensor. The 650$ shop is arrogant and short and the 350 guy took time to talk with me. Lets call the $350 guy "Bob". bob was very polite and explained everything well and the other guy - lets call him "Jerk" treated me like a dumbazz(maybe I am but its my car and money) because of my remedial questions. Both shops have good refernces - is bob a good choice or do i need to swallow my pride and go see the jerk at the slightly larger shop?
I wished A&A could tune it somehow. Any reccomendations for tuners in central AL?
one tuner want me to buy a ZR1 Map sensor and the other says not needed(but he wants 650 and the other guy 350 + 100 for sensor. The 650$ shop is arrogant and short and the 350 guy took time to talk with me. Lets call the $350 guy "Bob". bob was very polite and explained everything well and the other guy - lets call him "Jerk" treated me like a dumbazz(maybe I am but its my car and money) because of my remedial questions. Both shops have good refernces - is bob a good choice or do i need to swallow my pride and go see the jerk at the slightly larger shop?
I wished A&A could tune it somehow. Any reccomendations for tuners in central AL?
Last edited by PGSJOE; Oct 11, 2012 at 10:22 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
Running the ZR1 map sensor isn't a bad idea at all. I'm guessing "Bob" wants to tune your car with the upgraded 2.5 bar operating system available from HP tuners. In my opinion, it is a better way to go as you get "real" VE tables as well as a boost-enrichment feature that's pretty cool. It's what I'm running on my LS3 that also has an A&A system.
I would ask "Bob" if he's planning to tune the car in MAF (mass air flow) or speed density (no MAF). Personally, I'd go with a MAF tune. Even then, it's nice to run that ZR1 map sensor and the added features it allows.
I don't have any real experience with shops in your area, so I can't help you with that. As far as price goes, one of the shops is on the average/higher side, while the other is well below average for an FI car. My 2 cents, anyway.
I would ask "Bob" if he's planning to tune the car in MAF (mass air flow) or speed density (no MAF). Personally, I'd go with a MAF tune. Even then, it's nice to run that ZR1 map sensor and the added features it allows.
I don't have any real experience with shops in your area, so I can't help you with that. As far as price goes, one of the shops is on the average/higher side, while the other is well below average for an FI car. My 2 cents, anyway.