CI GS

Here’s a (very blurry) video of my last run the other night with the Evo, when it went 6.17 @ 108 w/ a 1.421 60’. The mph is lower than the usual 112, from me getting on the brakes before the finish line. He blew up his turbo off the line, so when I saw that he wasn’t coming, I decided to shutdown early. I was happy with the way it ran, considering that I was on a 67% ethanol mix, with no meth or nitrous.

Turbo6TA

Sammy .... Great video, that GS is very quick!

What size rear wheels and tires are you running? ... And brand of rear tires

Thanks,
Ron

Chiselchst

Dam nice run Sammy! You've got that puppy dialed in. Hooks good, and your left perfect (light & traction it seemed).
Too bad for Mr BOOST...I'm sure he'll be gunning for you while he's doing repairs, LOL
Nice job! Pay off after all that work is well deserved my friend!

(These's NO way I could launch my car that good. Maybe others can, but not me. Those auto's kick butt for a reason...)

CI GS

Lol, thanks guys.
Ron, I'm running 275/60/15 Hoosier DR2 radials. They're 28.25" tall and 10.5" wide. Our track is in really bad shape, so I need all the tire I can get to hook. But, that only makes me feel all the better about getting this thing to run a 6.1 on boost only. By comparison, my old race car with a Shafiroff built 1008hp 565cid motor with a 150 shot on top of it could only run 5.7s up there, spinning most of the way. And that thing is easily 500lbs lighter than the Vette.
Mitch, I'm having fun killing those Evo's man. But barely, most of the time. Those are easily the most popular and the fastest cars on the street here, and with AWD, traction isn't a problem for them. Some of them are making upwards of 50psi and running ethanol (Ignite) and nitrous on top of that, and those guys bring in tuners from the US to dial their cars in at our events. That only makes it even more enjoyable to kick their asses with my old homebuilt PD-blower Vette.

bonecrrusher

Did you happen to see these Magnuson fittings?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123762048229

CI GS

Nice! I wish I had seen them a few months ago, before I started messing with reconfiguring my intercooler lines. That would’ve saved me a lot of grief. I think I’m going to order a set of these regardless. Thanks for posting this.

bonecrrusher

I literally just found these looking for other LSA parts - and immediately thought of you.

Glad I could help out.

How is the updated intake working out? I need to play catch up on your thread - but I'll do that when I get back to the right coast. Currently out in Cali on vacation.

CI GS

Safe travels.
I haven’t had a chance to test the new air filter setup at the track as yet, but I will this weekend, if we don’t get rained out. I also need to redo my radiator shroud/cover for the new intake pipe, but I’ll probably have to test the car without it first, since I won’t have much time to mess with anything before this weekend. I’m going to try to find some time change the front springs and I’m going with a 27”x 6” M/T on the front, to get some more weight transfer, because it’s not dead hooking off the line. Im hoping I can get this thing to run a 6.0 without spray.

CI GS

Tested the new Halltech air filter setup at the track last night, and it doesn’t seem to be worth a damn. The only decent run I made before the timing system went on the fritz was a 6.20@112, which is .03 of a second off the two 6.17s it ran the last time out. It also seems to be making slightly less boost, which may be due to me having to change the tensioner again, or it may be that the longer 90* 4.5” elbow actually flows less than the short 45* 4.5” elbow I had on there before. Whatever the cause, changing the air filter seems to have been a waste of time and effort. So much for my hopes of the bigger, far more expensive Halltech filter vs. the very cheap ($24.00!) Vibrant filter. At least I didn’t waste time and money getting a new radiator lid cut. Looks like I may have hit the ceiling for this setup in any event. The car still hauls ***, but it would’ve been nice to see even a small improvement. I may just have to spray this damn thing now...

Chiselchst

I'm surprised that didn't help ...good info though

I screwed up - I ordered a Mechman alternator, but NOT from Bret - but from the main Mechman website...I missed that detail!

Can anyone tell me where the main large red/hot wire from the back of the alternator goes? I think it's the starter? Or the fuse box?

I'm going to run a large 1/0 awg wire to replace it. I could *probably* get by without it, but I have all of the stuff after re-wiring my last boat...

CI GS

Yeah, you should’ve ordered it from Bret and you could’ve gotten his HD cable at the same time. The first thing you need to do is remove the back cover and re-clock that so that the cable lug is in the clear.
Since I had a custom remote battery setup, with a cable lug up front mounted on the right fender well housing, I just ran a 1/0 awg cable to that lug. But I also left the stock cable that goes to the starter in pace as well. See here:

CI GS

Have any of you guys seen this? Easiest way to increase “boost” and lower IATs at the same time!
BUT before you all jump up to get your credit card, ask yourself this, how much harder will this sucker make it to get at those two stinkin rear lid bolts???

https://nitrousoutlet.com/i-30561042...te-system.html

CI GS

BTW: Some of you guys (like Rodney) will no doubt love rubbing my nose in this: I think I've finally figured out why my boost has been all over the place at WOT, except for one run, which coincidentally, was an untimed run, but, I’m convinced, was my best run ever, from looking at how it hooked/transferred on videos and from the datalog, and I was using nitrous, as well as the fact that I beat the fastest street legal car in the country, who had just run a 6.0 at 117. And, get this, that run had stable boost, and I was running a 6 rib RPM belt (the same one that fubared my timing chain cover seal, etc.) and a STOCK tensioner. So that really had me stumped, until now.
Y’all ready for this?? Okay, it wasn’t belt slip. At least not since I went to the 8-rib setup, I would bet. It wasn’t a tensioner problem (those were all my doing). It was too much tire pressure. Yep, that’s right, tire pressure. WTF is he on, you say? Let me explain...
I’ve never really taken the time to replay my data logs in slowmo, until a few days ago before I left on vacation. But when I was playing back one log I made the other day, I noticed at the big end that my mph jumped up and down a bit right before the end of the run. Weird, right? But with the replay on actual time (1x) it’s hard to track all of the stuff that’s happening, so I decided to slow down the replay rate and when I slowed it down, I saw something interesting - the mph was jumping up and down intermittently, throughout the run! And so was the RPM, the MAF frequency, and yes, the boost. I checked a number of other logs of runs at the track and sure enough it was there in all of those logs too, some worse than others, except that one run on nitrous with the 6 rib belt, where I dropped the tire pressure down to 15psi, whereas I’ve been typically running 16-16.5 psi. The reason I dropped it down so low on that run was because I knew I would have to use the nitrous, and wanted to make sure it hooked. And it did, like never before or since, but it never got up on the tire until a good distance down track, so on the next occasions at the track, I kept increasing the tire pressure again up to 16.5 on my last outing and got some serious tire shake (nearly shat my pants - thought it was the tranny going) and I could only muster a 6.4 on that run and then dropped it to 16 and it went 6.2, but it was still spinning. And that’s the log that I was looking at when I spotted the mph fluctuation.
You see, our track is more than a little bit rough and it does take some doing to get a 2wd car to hook on it. So, it looks like I’m going to have to contend with the lower tire pressure (which the car handles fine) to get it to hook and then the boost (and everything else) should be much more stable. I might also be testing Hoosier’s new Drag Bracket Radial slick next time out, IF I can get it shipped to me on time:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-18820
So, after all of that knuckle skinning, belt and tensioner changing exercise, and all the mental masturbation about what the hell the problem was with my boost being all jumpy, I may have just figured it out. We shall soon see.
To be continued...

ls1wolf

Amazing how the smallest things can make such a change...

Chiselchst

No doubt! And good job catching that...that could have easily continued to go unnoticed...
Man, 6 flat at 117, holy crap man! That's damn good! Extremely good, right?
Your one of the few that log data - and know how to interpret it also. Nice job Sammy...regardless of what Rodney might say...

CI GS

Yeah, a 6.0 at 117 in the 1/8 converts to like a 9.5 @ 145 in the 1/4, according to Wallace Racing calculators. That Evo is badass, and he’s an excellent driver. That’s where I want to get the Vette to on E85 alone: a 6.0.
BTW: That was the same run that I posted the video from the onboard camera on his car a couple of months back in this thread, that you did a screen grab from of my car transferring and hooking like a bitch. It has not done that since, even when I ran the two back to back 6.1s on E67.
I try to log every run I make at the track and make the necessary adjustments to the MAF table The thing is that it’s hard to get good data to make adjustments if your MAF frequency is all over the place because RPM boost etc is jumping around during a run.
I’ve learnt a lot from lurking on here and HP Tuners forums and I had a good teacher (Carson). I still have a ways to go before I get the full hang of it, but I’m figuring stuff out as I go along. I try to learn something new every day. As Einstein once said, “Once you stop learning, you start dying”.
Mind you, he also said, “There are only two things that are infinite: the Universe, and human stupidity. And I’m not so sure about the Universe!”

CI GS

Very true. It’s always the total sum of the smallest things that make the biggest difference.

old motorhead

So, I'm turning over a new leaf Sammy. Just recently too. Wife even noticed. No longer just the animal magnetism thing. She actually likes me now......

Going back to my early Heartbeat days (5 years ago ?), I remember my first dyno graph. Done right after all of the mods. HB, 81mm pulley, cam, headers, etc. 630ish at the wheels on a Mustang dyno. The HP curve looked beautiful until about 5250 RPM. It looked like a rough cut saw blade from there on up. Tuner/dyno guy said it was tire slip on the dyno. He even tried putting a fat *** grunt type guy in the trunk for another run. Same thing. Shoot.

Fast forward several months. I had a local shop do some carb and dyno work on my '69 Camaro. Turned out great. Asked them if they would do a few dyno runs on my Vette. Mustang dyno again. I let air down to 25psi in the rear tires thinking that may cure the slip. Same looking dyno curve with damn near identical numbers. Shop owner commented that they recently had a 1200 hp Camaro on their dyno with a smooth curve bottom to top. Shoot.

Decided that tire slip on the dyno wasn't the problem. Suspected belt slip on the blower. I redneck rigged a boost gauge with a boost line running from the HB, through the passenger window, to a boost gauge sitting on my dash in a tennis shoe. Don't laugh, it worked. Just had to do my testing at night. Small town. People know me. You know, got a rep to protect. Saw what I suspected. 9.5psi until about 5250 where it went down hill to about 6psi at 6500. Shoot.

About that time, Andy and I discussed cures for the slip. He also talked me into adding meth. You're not the only one that gets talked into spending money on these fine cars BTW. After finding and installing the shortest Gatorback that could be pried on, my belt ship disappeared.

What I really don't understand is how my HP could still be going up past 5250 rpm while my boost was going down. Two different Mustang dyno's showed this. There's a post in this thread showing no belt slip and 664hp on a DynoJet. Perfectly smooth curve and boost logged at the bottom of the dyno sheet showing an almost perfectly flat boost curve. Seems like it peaked at 10psi at 3000 rpm and stayed at 9.5psi before and after that peak.

Here's another little factoid that may be of interest to you. I never made a full quarter mile pass with that Grand Sport. Before I took it to the track, I added Michelin PSS non runflat tires. 345's on the rear and 285 fronts. I aired the rears down to 20psi at the track. It dead hooked first launch. I just knew I was going to be deep into the 10's. Hit the first two shifts like I knew what I was doing. Just after the 3/4 shift, the damn thing started duck walking at 100+mph. Right rear would bounce up then the left and so on. I saw a vid of a ZR1 doing the same thing in a half mile race. They called it the "death wobble". ZR1 driver stayed in it through the end of the race. I got out of it, called it a night, drank a few beers with the boys, and went home.

scottg

I think I hear a wise old man moment to grasshopper

CI GS

LMAO! Some damn good stories in there, old buddy! You must be Texan or sumthin?!

I’m trying to follow in your footsteps and get in the good graces on my wife, but this racing business every month is getting on her nerves, she says. I keep reminding her that it’s probably better than having me moping around the house, but she’s not buying that, I’m supposed to be on vacation over here in Germany right now with her, but, as you can see, I can’t get away from this car ****.

Anyways, here’s the thing, my car makes boost quick, like it makes 4-5 psi instantly, before it even rolls off the line (see snapshot from a datalog of a 1/8 mile run below) and it gets to 11-12psi pretty damn quick, then peaks at 13.5 right at 6900-7000rpm.


I know what you mean about that duck walk thing - no bueno. I would never attempt to run my car with low pressure drag radials (let alone biased ply) in the back with the stock tires up front. I’ve myself have had the pleasure of driving a modded and nitroused C5 with bias-ply slicks and stock wheels and tires up front. Talk about a busy boy I was up in there, trying to keep that thing pointed towards the stripe. Someone at the finish line said it looked like I had more arms than an octopus when it crossed the line, wiggling around like a rattlesnake on crack.
But with the skinny front runners, my car is stable as hell, even without a front sway bar and 300 lb/in. springs on the coilovers. Or maybe it goes so quick I don’t even notice?
If only I had a real blower...