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I was just fooling around under the hood checking stuff, killing time and noticed the MAF plastic housing was not sitting on or over the pins that stick up on the radiator housing. It needed to go back about 1/4-inch before it would fit. To make a long story short I ended up cutting about a 1/4" off the silicone rubber tube that attaches it to the TB. Did yours fit without modification?
I just realized what you were referring to...the air filter housing intake. Mine did fit perfectly till I decided to install the Halltech Beehive. Once I installed the Beehive I had to remove the stanchions from the radiator support because there was no way to get it to fit without cutting the Beehive to pieces. It didn't really matter because the Beehive holds the housing in place.
After u get your new harness take the car to a tuner and throw that sct in the garbage. I have the e force on my 05 and it made 440/445 w sct tune. And didn't drive like stock. With a $500 tune from MikeNorris I now have a safe tune and the car put down 508/550 and acts like it did stock. Not a race car compared to other vettes on the forum but very fun to drive and faster then most street cars.
I was able to fix the bad part of the wiring harness just to see if the code would go away. It cured the problem. I called Edelbrock on Monday and told them I had damaged the wiring harness. They told me I could not buy the wiring harness from them directly. They gave me the part number and I called Jegs (the Edelbrock guy mentioned them). They told me Edelbrock would drop ship the part to me in 2 days. On Thursday I got an email from Jegs stating that the part was backordered, and would ship on 1-4.
Today I took the car around the block, light driving. I noticed that the revs don't drop down correctly. I can be at 3,000 RPM, push in the clutch, and the RPMs very gradually go down. What should I look for? Is it possible that when the wiring broke, some electonic component was damaged?
I was able to fix the bad part of the wiring harness just to see if the code would go away. It cured the problem. I called Edelbrock on Monday and told them I had damaged the wiring harness. They told me I could not buy the wiring harness from them directly. They gave me the part number and I called Jegs (the Edelbrock guy mentioned them). They told me Edelbrock would drop ship the part to me in 2 days. On Thursday I got an email from Jegs stating that the part was backordered, and would ship on 1-4.
Today I took the car around the block, light driving. I noticed that the revs don't drop down correctly. I can be at 3,000 RPM, push in the clutch, and the RPMs very gradually go down. What should I look for? Is it possible that when the wiring broke, some electonic component was damaged?
Most likely the tune. Idle airflow. As was suggested you will probably be happier with a good tune rather than the canned one.
My A6 runs great on the canned tune. Did you hook it up to your computer and make sure the tune on the SCT was up to date? I believe mine downloaded a more current updated tune from SCT when I connected it a couple of weeks ago. Also, Edelbrock may let you send them a data log of your car in action and then send you a modified tune to solve your issues. I'm not saying a professional tune won't help but these steps may get you by for a while.
My A6 runs great on the canned tune. Did you hook it up to your computer and make sure the tune on the SCT was up to date? I believe mine downloaded a more current updated tune from SCT when I connected it a couple of weeks ago. Also, Edelbrock may let you send them a data log of your car in action and then send you a modified tune to solve your issues. I'm not saying a professional tune won't help but these steps may get you by for a while.
Yes, I downloaded the latest version of the tune. I'm going to call Edelbrock tomorrow.
I noticed that the revs don't drop down correctly. I can be at 3,000 RPM, push in the clutch, and the RPMs very gradually go down. What should I look for? Is it possible that when the wiring broke, some electonic component was damaged?
I've noticed that with my E-Force as well. It is almost like the cruise control is active while driving, and when you press in the clutch the RPMs stay high for a while.
I've noticed that with my E-Force as well. It is almost like the cruise control is active while driving, and when you press in the clutch the RPMs stay high for a while.
I was thinking when I uploaded my SCT tune it asked if I had an automatic or manual. I definitely remember it asking me what my final drive ratio was. When I selected 2.73 it said only changes would be made to the engine not the drivetrain. Is it possible that you both missed a step in uploading your tune to the car. If it were me I would re-upload the stock tune then re-load the SCT Eforce tunes. Just a thought...
I was thinking when I uploaded my SCT tune it asked if I had an automatic or manual. I definitely remember it asking me what my final drive ratio was. When I selected 2.73 it said only changes would be made to the engine not the drivetrain. Is it possible that you both missed a step in uploading your tune to the car. If it were me I would re-upload the stock tune then re-load the SCT Eforce tunes. Just a thought...
With the LS7 it gives you the "change options" or something like that. I've always selected "no options" to change since it only allows you to change the axle ratio.
I've noticed that with my E-Force as well. It is almost like the cruise control is active while driving, and when you press in the clutch the RPMs stay high for a while.
Most likely the tune. Idle airflow. As was suggested you will probably be happier with a good tune rather than the canned one.
The wiring harness came earlier this week and I installed it last night. I now understand why Edelbrock has you install the wiring harness before you install the supercharger. The wiring harness connector into the TMAP is a royal PITA to disconnect and reconnect because of the close proximity to the firewall.
I cleared the code and ran the car for about 20 minutes and the code returned.
I ran datalogging during this drive. One thing I noticed during the playback was that the IAT never moved from -40.
I triple checked the wiring and everything is fine.
Is that normal? If it is not normal, what does it tell me?
The wiring harness came earlier this week and I installed it last night. I now understand why Edelbrock has you install the wiring harness before you install the supercharger. The wiring harness connector into the TMAP is a royal PITA to disconnect and reconnect because of the close proximity to the firewall.
I cleared the code and ran the car for about 20 minutes and the code returned.
I ran datalogging during this drive. One thing I noticed during the playback was that the IAT never moved from -40.
I triple checked the wiring and everything is fine.
Is that normal? If it is not normal, what does it tell me?
It is not normal and is probably a wiring issue. Recheck all the plugs. The one that goes to the maf, can actually be plugged upside down and the car will still run, but the IAT wont read properly.
When my eforce was installed there was a problem with some wires in the harness being reversed from edelbrock, but I am sure they have resolved that defect as that was 3 years ago.
The wiring harness came earlier this week and I installed it last night. I now understand why Edelbrock has you install the wiring harness before you install the supercharger. The wiring harness connector into the TMAP is a royal PITA to disconnect and reconnect because of the close proximity to the firewall.
I cleared the code and ran the car for about 20 minutes and the code returned.
I ran datalogging during this drive. One thing I noticed during the playback was that the IAT never moved from -40.
I triple checked the wiring and everything is fine.
Is that normal? If it is not normal, what does it tell me?
My guesstimate is the TMAP sensor in the rear of the SC is faulty not the wiring. I would pull the SC off the car and inspect TMAP itself. It sounds like a lot of trouble but I don't see much of a choice. Perhaps a pin on the connector is broken off or bent and once off the car you could inspect it and fix or replace the TMAP sensor.
My guesstimate is the TMAP sensor in the rear of the SC is faulty not the wiring. I would pull the SC off the car and inspect TMAP itself. It sounds like a lot of trouble but I don't see much of a choice. Perhaps a pin on the connector is broken off or bent and once off the car you could inspect it and fix or replace the TMAP sensor.
That would be my last resort. Those sensors dont screw up too often. You could probably see the pins with a mirror or borascope without removing the blower. A bent pin is a possibility because that plug is hard to get on but I would try to check first before removing the whole thing.
That would be my last resort. Those sensors dont screw up too often. You could probably see the pins with a mirror or borascope without removing the blower. A bent pin is a possibility because that plug is hard to get on but I would try to check first before removing the whole thing.
Good idea. I'll take a look at the pins with a mirror.
I want to thank everyone for all the input I have received on this problem. It will be Thursday morning before I have a chance to look at the TMAP sensor.
My limited understanding of the IAT is that this monitors the air temp and sends signals to the ECM that are used to adjust the fuel mixture. If am off base, please correct me.
If there were no problems with the car and I did a datalog, starting with a cold engine and ending with the engine at normal operating temperature, what IAT readings should I see?
Last question is, if the IAT is consistantly reading -40, does this mean too much fuel is being fed to the engine?
I want to thank everyone for all the input I have received on this problem. It will be Thursday morning before I have a chance to look at the TMAP sensor.
My limited understanding of the IAT is that this monitors the air temp and sends signals to the ECM that are used to adjust the fuel mixture. If am off base, please correct me.
If there were no problems with the car and I did a datalog, starting with a cold engine and ending with the engine at normal operating temperature, what IAT readings should I see?
Last question is, if the IAT is consistantly reading -40, does this mean too much fuel is being fed to the engine?
Thanks in advance for all responses.
If the IAT is constant -40, something is wrong with the sensor or the wiring. Its default unit of measurement is centigrade, and should at least measure ambient temperature. IAT is important for correct fuel mixture.
If the engine was really that cold, the system would pump fuel into it to bring it up to operating temperature. But in your case, there is probably a safety feature that prevents it from reacting to an abnormal IAT and puts the fuel management system into a "safe mode" thus causing the lean code. It is most likely providing just enough fuel to keep the engine running safely. I'm no expert, but I have slept at a Holiday Inn Express in the past