Yesterday I completed the install of the Eforce 1593 on my 2006 6-speed. After 10 of minutes of light driving, the check engine light came on. I took the car back to my garage and read the codes with the SCT, which showed code P0113- Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input.

I am using Edelbrock canned tune.

I re-checked all of the Eforce wiring and cleared the codes with the SCT. I checked for codes again and none were present. I then started the car and after 10 minutes of idling, the check engine light re-appeared. SCT showed that P0113 was back.

The only other abnormal thing I observed was when I was shifting gears, when I let off the gas the engine RPMs did not drop down as quickly as they used to.

Could the temperature sensor that is located behind the front bumper cover be related to this problem? It is possible that I bent this sensor when I removed the front bumper cover.

Any suggestions on what I should look for and where I should look? I don't have any scan and tune software, so right now I am stuck.

 

This is related to the TMAP (on the back of the supercharger) or the wiring for it. Check that the plug is on properly as its a bit of a tough place to reach and maybe you didn't get it on well. It could also be a faulty TMAP sensor. Lets hope not cause its a pain to change. The best thing is to check the obvious things and then speak with edelbrock. It may be something they have seen before and know right away.

 

The IAT sensor is an integrated part of the MAF sensor, which measures the volume and temperature of air passing through it. It is located on the drivers side of the air intake tube near the air filter.

You can test it using the procedures below.

Circuit/System Verification

Engine running, observe the scan tool IAT Sensor parameter. the reading should be between -38 to +120°C (-38 to +248°F), depending on current ambient temperature and vehicle operation conditions.
Operate the vehicle with the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records data.

Circuit/System Testing

Important: All electrical components and accessories must be turned OFF and allowed to power down.

Ignition OFF, disconnect the MAF/IAT harness connector at the MAF/IAT sensor.
Ignition OFF, test for less than 5 ohms of resistance between the low reference circuit terminal D and ground.
⇒ If greater than the specified range, test the low reference circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

Ignition ON, verify the scan tool IAT Sensor parameter is less than -39°C (-38°F).
⇒ If greater than the specified range, test the signal circuit for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

Install a 3A fused jumper wire between the signal circuit terminal E and a good ground. Verify the scan tool IAT Sensor parameter is greater than 149°C (300°F).
⇒ If less than the specified range, test the signal circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

If all circuits test normal, test or replace the MAF/IAT sensor.

 

Actually, it is not. The IAT sensor on an eforce is integrated into the MAP sensor (hence called a TMAP) on the back of the supercharger and is rewired. Some of the test procedures are probably the same, but you have to figure out which wire is which in the eforce harness.

 

I went back and traced the wiring and found that I had routed the wiring harness too close to the belt. You can see the results below.

I am not sure where the brown wire goes, so my safest bet is to order another wiring harness from Edelbrock.

 

Unfortunate, but crap happens. The good thing is the educational aspect of it.

After I finished mine I started worrying about pinching a wire under the coil packs and I worried about the banjo string connecting the TB. I ended up taking it all apart and restring the harness. I also wrapped certain areas of the coil pack bracket with electrical tape where I though might chaff a wire.

I also used several black wire ties to keep wires out of moving parts.

Just a minor set back. Don't worry too much about it.

 

Yeah... stuff happens. At least you found the issue quickly. I bet if you open up the plastic wire cover you will find the other end of that brown one.

 

I looked and I could not find the other end of the brown wire.

If you look at the pictures below, my guess is that brown wire got pulled out of the connector that now has three wires and a hole.

If anyone can confirm this is where this wire goes, please let me know.



Connector below appears to be missing a wire.

 

After u get your new harness take the car to a tuner and throw that sct in the garbage. I have the e force on my 05 and it made 440/445 w sct tune. And didn't drive like stock. With a $500 tune from MikeNorris I now have a safe tune and the car put down 508/550 and acts like it did stock. Not a race car compared to other vettes on the forum but very fun to drive and faster then most street cars.

 

Yip, you are missing a brown wire. It should go in that hole.

 

 

Guys, thanks for all the help.

Before I started the Eforce install I took the car to Tick Performance and had a baseline dyno performed. At that time the only mods to the car were a Lingenfelter CAI and Borla Stingers. They did three pulls on a Dynojet. The best pull was 364.87 HP. The guy who performed the pulls said those were good numbers for a LS2.

I plan on taking the car back to Tick Performance and have them perform three more pulls. After those pulls, I am going to have them tune the car. It will be interesting to see the difference between their tune and the SCT tune.

I will publish the results when everything is finished.

 

Please do, I for one would like to see the before and after.

 

Did you have any other mods?

The HP claims that Edelbrock makes surely isn't with their tune.

 

Thanks for sharing this issue. Im gonna go check all of my wiring on the 1590 kit I installed. One thing I did purchase was the GM LS2 LS3 LS7 LSA LS9 Throttle Body 12 Inch Extension Harness from Lingenfelter. Mine was so short I felt like the wires were going to rip loose.

 

Please don't take this as bashing Tick, but consider taking it to PCM of NC in Mooresville,NC. I guarantee you will be happier having them tune and dyno it. They tuned my 11 GS with the 1591 599hp kit. I went back up there a couple of months ago and had it redynoed and he found some issues I had no idea were there. I felt like the car was a little low on power, but didn't know it was 100+hp. He got me on the right road. Give them a call and tell them David Thomas with the white GS and carbon fiber hood sent you. They are running a special right now too. I have several friends that won't let anyone else touch their cars and yes they are THAT good.

 

Good idea.

Mine is very tight as well. I am worried that the wires could possibly pull loose from the throttle body connector.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. PCM is actually a little closer to me than Tick. I wanted to have all my dyno pulls (before and after) done on the same dyno, but the most important thing is to get a good, reliable tune.

 

My extension arrived today and I installed it and zip tied all of the cables/wires away from the belt area. The extension is worth the piece of mind even though it is almost 50 bucks. But what is another 50 when you have already spent thousands.

 

Well I have 30,000 miles on my tunr without 1 single incident.