bigstuff3 experiences?
A friend of mine has tuned a couple BS3 cars and does not really care for it.
A friend of mine has tuned a couple BS3 cars and does not really care for it.

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At four digits rwhp and double scaled factory E38 with 2.5 map better choice? On standing mile pulls? I don't think so..
Already burned one piston with clean log..
Asking opinions, Motec is still my choice #1
What I looking for:
Launch/ better traction control
EGT's per each cylinder
Meth control
Dual wide bands
Safety mode
Min 3 bar map
Etc..
At four digits rwhp and double scaled factory E38 with 2.5 map better choice? On standing mile pulls? I don't think so..
Already burned one piston with clean log..
Asking opinions, Motec is still my choice #1
What I looking for:
Launch/ better traction control
EGT's per each cylinder
Meth control
Dual wide bands
Safety mode
Min 3 bar map
Etc..
Wideband control
Real traction control
Flex fuel sensor
Egt and tuning per cylinder
Anti lag
Boost by speed
As well as tons of other things...
Pro Efi seems nice to but I don't know anyone running it.
Stand alone is definitly smart at that power level and for that application though.
Willing the bet at least (25) BS3 units have passed through these doors on various cars/trucks/boats and have yet to see an issue with them.
The main thing people don't realize is that the BS3 seems to only work perfectly with LS1 coil packs. For whatever reason, LS2,L99,LS3 coils seem to have issues when used with the BS3. Willing to bet "most" of the cars out there with LS or Modular (Ford) based motors having issues with BS3 systems is ignition related due to something like that, or install issue.
The software and logging on a BS3 system is so simple, its almost childs play. And the default map that comes loaded in the box usually starts and runs the car 90% of the time. As long as the install is done correct, from start to finish a BS3 can be tuned in about 3 dyno pulls, and a little bit of parking lot/street driving. (And some rev up throttle blips to dial in the Accel Pump/Power Valve settings) So maybe an hour or two worth of work. Assuming you know basic LS timing values for various cam/compression/heads, and fuel loads.
Now the ProEFI, Holley, Motec, and Halltech are VERY VERY nice units, though its safe to say that 50% of the users will never use half of the amazing functions that they offer. But they are AMAZING units as well. And the great news is that even though they are all very advanced and do lots of amazing functions, they are still really really strait forward to install, tune and use. Almost EVERYTHING these days is about 100% easier to use the EFI units of 5 or 10 years ago.
Though with all stand alones, it really comes down to who you are having tune it, and what they are comfortable with. If a person has done (100) FAST XFI installs, but has never done a ProEFI, then that might point you towards the FAST. However if you are tuning it yourself, and your starting from scratch you can't go wrong with any of them.
Easy and simple, comes with a plug and play harness = BS3
More bells and whistles, sometimes doesn't come with harness = Most other ECU's
We are not biased, since we don't sell or install any stand alones here.
However almost every ECU has either been on, or is on an employees car here. Currently off the top of my head, a ProEFI unit, FAST unit, BS3 unit, and the rest are factory ECU's. With one of the factory ECU cars, soon to be switching to a Holley
Last edited by ProChargerTech; Aug 14, 2014 at 05:07 PM.
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At least your doing it right! ECU's with big power and features are a little pricy, but usually much cheaper then the motors they can save.
They make two separate boxes for cars that have 24x (1x) setups and 58x (4x) set ups. The boxes, and harness are specific for that. Have installed, and seen plenty of LS's with BS3's never one with a crank trigger. They label them LS1 and LS2/LS7, they are NOT interchangeable.
Only time the crank trigger would have to be used is on a standard distributor set up, and only if the person didn't want to run a modified IPU distributor that has both pick ups inside of it. (Again we have done it both ways on BBC's here in house in the dyno room, both crank trigger and IPU distributor)
Unless something has changed recently, thats how its been for years.
And after just checking their website, they are still listed as separate part numbers.
Skip ProEfi, it's junk. The woodward hardware is outstanding, proefi software is a joke, unless you have access to use the proefi dealer dongle and use mototune, pass on it.
Something isn't right if you're only making 1000whp with 20-22psi boost. My car (with smaller less efficient turbos) did that number on 18 with 93 octane and meth.
Last edited by DSteck; Aug 14, 2014 at 09:12 AM.
Something isn't right if you're only making 1000whp with 20-22psi boost. My car (with smaller less efficient turbos) did that number on 18 with 93 octane and meth.
No gift horses on that dyno, in another dyno result could be easily plus 5-10%




















