OK kind of a history of what I have been dealing with. Ever since I've built my car a few years ago, I have randomly gotten a reduced engine power and service antilock system on the dash. It seemed to be most common whenever I got stuck at a red light that took forever on a hot summer day or in traffic etc. At first I wouldn't get and codes I just shut it down, open and close the door, wait 20 seconds and fire it back up and it would be fine. A couple months back it gave a code for the throttle minimum position not learned. I performed the idle relearn procedure and all was fine. A few weeks ago I drove to a show, parked and when I started it back up to leave it went straight into R.E.P. and gave a P0222 code. I could reset the code after it was running and it would excelerate enough to get it home but if I went past 1/4 throttle it would throw the code and go back into R.E.P. I replaced the accelerator pedal and tried starting it only for it to do the same thing but now it is giving me a P2135 for the throttle body position. Sensor. I've looked for skinned wires , loose connections etc. I even cleaned the paint off the grounding locations on the frame to make sure it wasn't a grounding issue. I am however running a tpis 102mm throttle body that uses the LS2 motor and internals. BTW the car is a max effort LS7 with a tvs2300 2008 Z06.


Sorry for the long post I'm just stumped and don't want to keep throwing parts at it. I have a friend that is going to let me borrow his nick Williams 102 throttle body to see if it is my throttle body or not.... I'll report back of that fixes it.

 

Sucking the TB shut. Good luck.

 

In the tune you need to adjust the variance ratio on the tb

 

I have driven on this tune for 2 years and it go months without doing it. I don't even have to start the car and it throws the P2135 code. I can erase it and it comes rite back with the engine off!!!

 

OK, I installed my friends throttle body and it fired rite up let it idle till warm. Cut it off and started it back still fine, went out for a drive. Drove perfect for about an hour. Then a car cut me off, I hit the brakes and the car stalled. It will not start back, fuel pump primes, turns oyver and fires like one cylinder then just turns over. Its has engine code p1682 now....so it came home on a roll back.

 

What spark plugs are in the car?

 

NGK tr6

 

Going to sound stupid but try putting some BR7's or OEM stock plugs in there. I had similar issues as you and it seems like the TR6's are unshielded plugs and the br7's are shielded...I was getting all kinds of EMI causing weird faults when the TR6's got a little old, switched plugs and everything was fine.

 

OK I will try it.... at this point I have nothing to loose.

 

May need a TechII reflash. Sometimes the ECU and BCM become out of sync.

 

No, I don't think so. All programming is done with SPS.

 

Check the harmonic balancer if it moves

 

As in wobbles or moves on the crank?
Its a keyed crank and Ati 10rib 10% o.d. balancer with an ARP bolt torqued to spec.

 

I'm mailing my ecm to MTI racing and having them test it... (shop who tuned the car)

 

I know its a keyed balancer but that what happend to me last week same codes and the problem was with the balancer it was spening freely on the crank. I have 8 rib setup on my car and the crank already pined .
Check the balancer try to move spin it by hand see if its spining on the crankshaft freely

 

Checked it today and there is zero movement on the balancer front to back or rotational.... still waiting on MTI to look at my ecm

 

After digging around a bit I decided to check the fuses under the hood. I found a fuse for the O2 sensors blown, that explains after replacing the extensions and O2 sensors why I was still getting the O2 heater codes randomly.

Next I found the ECT fuse(electronic throttle control) blown.... This is the reason for the P1682 code that shut my car down and made it not start back. I have checked for chafed wires and a short in the circuit but haven't found one yet.

MTI Racing informed me that my ECM checked out to be good and he checked the error history and made some changes to my tune to help with the reduced engine power issues. I get the ecm back Monday and will update then what I find.

 

Install an air foil on the TB. Makes a huge diff.

 

Ok how would I do that? The only airfoil I can find is the dual butterfly throttle body style. Mine is a 102mm LS7? Not saying it can't be done... I'm just stumped on how to do it?

 

You weld one in. ZL1 that my friends just did fought this forever. Any big boost and the blower would suck the TB shut. 5 different TBs, etc and they finally welded in an air foil, now everything is great.
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