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What boost gauge is everyone running and pics of where you have it mounted. Need some ideas before I order mine and if someone is selling one let me know. Thanks
My vote goes to dashlogic. Of course you will need a MAP sensor capable of reading boost before that will work. If yours is an '08 then that shouldn't be too difficult to source
Does anyone actually know how to use Dashlogic? Admittedly, the tuner who installed the bung, daisy chained the PLX wide band Air/Fuel sensor module, PLX vacuum/boost sensor and DashLogic couldn't explain to me how to use the DashLogic. And the manufacturer of Dashlogic doesn't even offer their phone number. Nor do they return emails. (Great customer support Palmer Performance Engineering!!!).
I figured out how to cycle/flip through the 8 pages of info. However, when I get to vacuum/boost, it shows -9 PSI. And it shows that whether I'm just cruising or at wide open throttle. -What gives?
I'd love to know how to make it show my 0-60 times and 1/4 ,mile times, but at this point, I'd be happy just to be shown how to monitor my Air/Fuel Ratio and current boost levels!!!
Does anyone actually know how to use Dashlogic? Admittedly, the tuner who installed the bung, daisy chained the PLX wide band Air/Fuel sensor module, PLX vacuum/boost sensor and DashLogic couldn't explain to me how to use the DashLogic. And the manufacturer of Dashlogic doesn't even offer their phone number. Nor do they return emails. (Great customer support Palmer Performance Engineering!!!).
I figured out how to cycle/flip through the 8 pages of info. However, when I get to vacuum/boost, it shows -9 PSI. And it shows that whether I'm just cruising or at wide open throttle. -What gives?
I'd love to know how to make it show my 0-60 times and 1/4 ,mile times, but at this point, I'd be happy just to be shown how to monitor my Air/Fuel Ratio and current boost levels!!!
First you need to get into the config and see what the heck they did or didn't setup properly. The unit has to be told what the formula is for converting output voltages from the wideband controller into AFR or Lambda readings that can then be displayed. That formula is different for most wide bands and has to be setup on the unit.
Get into the config and go under I believe it is custom PID's or calculation PID's, something like that, and see if anything has been entered.
I can walk you through it if not.
I wouldn't be very happy if I paid someone to install this and they didn't know how to do it.
It is really easy. If the boost is showing -9 all the time, then you have the wrong PID or don't have the correct map sensor. Since it isn't moving, sounds like wrong PID selected.
Download the config tool, and use it to do the setup.
You need a MAP sensor that can read high enough. I use a 3 bar MAP sensor so it reads up to 2 atm of pressure (roughly 29.4psi). I agree Palmer Performance's customer service sucks but their product is great.
Here it's showing AFR and boost. You can set it to read whatever you want. On some of my configuration screens I have it say "Vac/Boost "xx"" where xx is the boost level.
Sounds like the shop wired in a PLX boost sensor, it would have to be setup on the analog input and configured there. You can't just read the boost off the normal map PID. The PLX boost setup was a huge waste of money, but since it was there might as well use it.
You need a MAP sensor that can read high enough. I use a 3 bar MAP sensor so it reads up to 2 atm of pressure (roughly 29.4psi). I agree Palmer Performance's customer service sucks but their product is great.
Here it's showing AFR and boost. You can set it to read whatever you want. On some of my configuration screens I have it say "Vac/Boost "xx"" where xx is the boost level.
Noticed a lean spike when you get on it, then it's going (or staying) rich for a few seconds when you get off the throttle. Probably related to transient fueling. I still haven't figured out how to get mine to act right.. right now mine is rich at both points though.
Noticed a lean spike when you get on it, then it's going (or staying) rich for a few seconds when you get off the throttle. Probably related to transient fueling. I still haven't figured out how to get mine to act right.. right now mine is rich at both points though.
It's not said to go full rich until I hit high boost. I'm slow rolling into the throttle. It's 10.9-11.3 at full boost. Low boost it'll run mid/high 11s to low 12s.
Regardless, shouldn't go to 16:1 for that moment I don't think. In an HP Tuners log I bet it's longer than you'd think. Dash command has a bit of a delay and slow refresh rate
Though if it's working then who am I to tell you what's right or wrong
Here's a quick video of my AutoMeter boost gauge and SLP single gauge pod. Sorry that it's so dark. I shot this video in my garage. I also have the Dashlogic device installed monitoring other vitals. My 2011 Grand Sport has the 599HP Edelbrock E-Force kit installed.
My vote goes to dashlogic. Of course you will need a MAP sensor capable of reading boost before that will work. If yours is an '08 then that shouldn't be too difficult to source
I have a dashlogic too. I have not found the courage to drill anywhere to install my plx controller. Some say to use the grommet area where the ecu wiring runs into the cabin. I tried to feed the wiring with no luck. Do you have any pictures of your controller and how you wired it?
I have a dashlogic too. I have not found the courage to drill anywhere to install my plx controller. Some say to use the grommet area where the ecu wiring runs into the cabin. I tried to feed the wiring with no luck. Do you have any pictures of your controller and how you wired it?
I can take some. Mine is wired back to the glovebox as my HP Tuners interface is there too
I can take some. Mine is wired back to the glovebox as my HP Tuners interface is there too
I see. I'm interested in the power/ground and lsu cable. I have an obd2 port cable extension as well, so the glovebox sounds like the best place to install it. Thanks in advance.
I see. I'm interested in the power/ground and lsu cable. I have an obd2 port cable extension as well, so the glovebox sounds like the best place to install it. Thanks in advance.
Gotcha.
Right now the wideband O2 sensor & power wires are going through on the passenger side of the firewall, back behind the battery. Mine already had a small hole drilled/grommeted there for some audio stuff. So, then that goes to the wideband controller.. wideband controller output goes to HP Tuners interface and Dash logic interface. I'll get some other pictures tomorrow.