Does this motor has all the accessory holes like a ls3 or ls2 to go in a vette and if so is it worth the extra to stroke it or just keep stock crank and forge the rods and pistons...one more question do you guys think the stock heads are better or worse than my 243s

 

One thing I've learned is that 4.0" and larger stroke engines do not last as long or take as much abuse as 3.622 stroke engines at high power levels. The cylinders on these blocks were not designed for the large stroke and it causes the piston skirt to come out of the bore making things less stable. I've done it both ways to north of 1000whp. The stock stroke lasted longer, was easier on bearings, and made just as much peak power. The stroker "felt" faster because of the cubes and extra torque, but it really wasn't.

The block has all the accessorie holes just like the lq9/lq4 gen 3 engines with the exception of two.. There is a boss under the drivers side head that is there but not drilled and tapped. Simple job. The next is a boss that is next to the timing cover on the same side. That bolt location does not exist on the iron blocks. Bottom line, drill and tap the one 10mm hole and you are good to go.

 

Good info Breecher.

 

Good memory on tapping the hole, i forgot about that. I run an ly6 block since the gen 4 architecture is more similar to the ls2/ls3 as far as cam position and knock sensors.

 

So breecher are u implying that even if both the stock stroke motor and a stroker motor were both properly built that the longevity of the stock stroke one would last longer ??? Have this theory been tried and true I read about ur experience but I also see a lot of guys on forum with 402 or 408s and they say that their having no problems with them....I'm by no means shooting for 1000... I thought I was but maybe another time now I just want to play a little and I found this motor yesterday with l92 heads n all at a decent price and I just wanted to know what all I needed to do put it in my vette....wen rods n pistons came up I thought may as well put crank in and turn it to a 408 and have a extra 40 plus cubes...but all stock stuff is good.... Just didn't want to break another rod

 

I spoke with you a little earlier and that's y I was looking for a ly6 but are u saying that on the older style steel blocks the cam sensor and knock sensor is in a different location than on our stock motors?

 

You will get 10 different answers from 10 different people. A stock stroke will be easier on bearings and you don't have to worry about the skirts coming out of the bore like you do with a 4.0" stroke and larger. A stroker engine will be more prone to ring and cylinder wear as well due to the fact that the piston can rock around more when at the bottom of its stroke.

The pistons alone are more beefy when using a stock stroke, compare a piston from wiseco or diamond for a 3.622 and for 4.0" stroke, the deck of the stock stroke piston is much thicker.

Ive done it both ways, both ways make power. Ive had less headaches using a stock stroke. All were built with high end parts and the machining was second to none.

Do your research, figure out what works for you.

Personally I would do a 364-370ci if I were you... Use your stock crank, get some decent rods and pistons. Bring compression to about 10.0 and call it a day... Will be good for 800whp all day long even if using stock head castings.

 

LQ9 is a Gen III

LY6 is a Gen IV


The Gen III has the different cam position and knock sensor locations. I would not use a Gen III if you're looking for the easiest option

The Gen IV is basically an iron LS3. You just need to tap the one hole mentioned above to mount the accessories to the front of the motor

 

Exactly...

Clean Gen III iron 6.0's are getting tough to find anyways. Gen IV blocks are a dime a dozen. It will be near plug and play for the LS2/3.

 

There is a reason GM doesn't use a factory 4" stroke in any of the blocks except for a LS7. I know it works, but there are pros and cons.

 

Agreed with breecher. If it was a blower build I would do a 376. Power output will be same up top where it matters.

 

Thanks guys for all the info and I think I read this engine had Vvt wat would be needed to delete that or when I order new cam that would be it

 

New cam, lifters, and valley plate i think

 

Turbotuner, you are correct. I just finished my LY6 install. All of my accessories mounted up perfect, block did not have one of the ground point on the driver's side of the block.

 

Thanks ....I know you're running a steel block and I know it weighs more at ur HP level do u think the extra weight hurt your et and can you enlighten me on the myths about cooling issues one may have using this block vs aluminium.

 

You did your build around the same time I did .....did something happen and wat ??? N if u don't mind give me details on new build....yes I remember I think u did your own install u and your grandson I think

 

The cure for heavy is more power

I had no cooling issues with a stock radiator

Only aluminum block I'd consider is an aftermarket 6-bolt

 

Well, as with all projects, I intended only to do the motor. I went from motor to powder coating, to interior then suspension items and finished with a clutch master upgrade. Had a delay as I went threw 2 slave cylinders; original and a replacement. Original unit had a leak and the replacement failed after driving about an 1/8 mile. Adjusting the clutch master took way longer than it should have. Then car developed a belt walk issue that I been working, it is much better but not fully rectified.

I bought a short block from Schwanke engines, 6.2 / 375 iron block. Forged pistons and rod, stock crank. I stayed with what work in regards to the cam; LG GX5B. Stock rockers, Comp 7.4 hardened pushrods, Hinson C7R timing chain, Melling high press oil pump. I kept the same heads as they were already ported and valves upgraded just cleaned them up. Used ARP bolts on all key places. Car had ECS SL1500 with Alky control single nozzle. I did remove the restrictor and upgrade to 80lb injectors. I am scheduling a tuning today. I have put 500 miles on motor and all is good, temps are simiilar to LS2. I can't tell the difference in the weight but am anticipating a slightly different feel when I get a chance to auto cross.

 

Yes, and no. For those of us that don't want to spend the money on those aftermarket aluminum blocks, it's a hard decision. For those of us that like street cars at 800-1000rwhp at drag race, where .1 off the the 60ft is big, it does matter. The front end with the stock block and stock suspension comes up hard with a nice clutch slip.

I guess I haven't seen enough feedback from the iron block guys running 1.3-1.4 60ft's like I have, some Z06, etc cars have.

Your car is a beast, but just adding power isn't the end all solution for street guys that drag race and road race with way less hp than your new F1x setup will make. I have 15 year old threads on different mustang boards where we were pinching at hundredths at the strip over weight, running slow 12-13 second passes in high school.