What cam shaft sensor do I need to buy? I have a LQ9 based iron block 408 with 58X reluctor wheel. I keep getting a P0335 and P0336 code when it gets warmed up it is hard to start and runs rich. I have shield on starter to protect from up pipe off turbos. I assume I just unbolt it and put it in the way it comes out. Thanks.

 

Not one reply.....

 

Man probably because its a subject that has .
But I'll give you a quick version. First off I see you mentioned the starter. That would be the crank sensor first off. Second I don't know which block you have and if it has provisions for the top rear mount cam sensor, or for one off of the front cover. So depending on where your factory one was located could cause a the problem. Like say for instance yours was in the rear like it probably was if it is an 04 GTO. Then you installed a new block and moved sensor to the front cover etc. in that case you would need to make sure they swapped the two outer wires. Also of note would be a lot of the aftermarket double rollers have caused some issues with cam sensor codes. You would have to make sure you have the right cam sprocket to match your crank tooth count in this case a 58T and then if your car came with a 24T reluctor you would need something such as the Lingenfelter box that will cut the signal in half for your PCM to read it correctly etc. The list goes on and on. SO I'm saying you need to be very specific about what your working on like the yr etc.. and what your trying to accomplish. Hope this helps man. Its the internet, no one can read your mind or just knows what your working on. GL!

 

Well since this is corvetteforum I'm working on my 2008 twin turbo corvette. It has a 6.0 iron block swap that is now a 408. It is the CAM sensor code which is mounted on the front engine by water pump. I have a 58X reluctor.

 

Ok now we are getting some where lol! Well two things I would check is the marks on the front cam sprocket to make sure they are the ones for your car if you replaced them at all, I've seen the dealer ship give the wrong ones to some friends before. If its an aftermarket one then I'd double check what you bought. And check the pins on the plug to make sure they are making good contact. Bill had some contact issues with his.

 

is it hard to cold start too? Could have wires crossed in cam sensor harness. Hard starts are cam sensor, it wouldnt start at all with bad crank sensor.

ALso- Make sure cam gear is tight. They come loose with FI, and will do similar things.

 

Those are both crank codes, not cam codes. And not cam/crank corelation codes.

"If the ECM detects that there is no signal from the CKP sensor for 3 seconds, DTC P0335 sets.".

But I find it kind of strange that it runs at all if the crank sensor is borked. Maybe a 58 based PCM can ~run solely on the cam sensor, donno. In any case you're likely going to have to yank the starter to get a good look at it. I could be wrong but to my knowledge there aren't different crank sensors for the various LS engines. They all take the same. I've used my same LS2 crank sensor in two LQ motors and now my LSX.

Now the 336 could point to a reluctor problem. But in conjunction with a 335 I'd check out the sensor thoroughly.

 

I always thought hard starting = cam sensor

No start = crank sensor

 

It only does it when the car is warm. I wonder If the turbo piping is causing the starter to get hot and it doesn't want to start but does after turning over like the battery is dead. Could this sensor cause a knocking noise? It has developed a noise like an exhaust leak that I have tracked to that side of motor where starter is. It only makes the noise starting at 2K and stops around 3-3.5k

 

Well for sure when the timing gear bolts of the cam retainer bolts back out, they will knock for sure I'm guessing the cam bolts are backing out. But if the codes are all crank related that only says to me that You better not ignore this or you could be facing a much larger repair bill! No little trips any where until its fixed is my suggestion. GL! I'd just start by pulling the front cover first and double check everything is tight and then go to the reluctor and see what its doing.

 

Only one camshaft sensor for the front mount cam gears (2x or 4x) so I am sure you have the correct sensor. They changed color over time but the same camshaft sensor is used on the 24x and 58x Gen IV engines (front timing cover mounted camshaft sensor).

P0335 Conditions for Setting DTC:

• The ECM detects that the starter is commanded on and the engine has been cranking for more than 3 seconds without a CKP sensor pulse.
• The ECM detects that the engine is running, but has not received a CKP sensor pulse for 2 of 10 engine cycles.

P0336 Conditions for Setting DTC:

• The ECM detects that the engine is running, but receives less than 55 or more than 61 CKP sensor pulses, during each engine revolution, for 8 of 10 engine revolutions.
• The ECM detects that the engine is running, but more than 25 crankshaft resyncs have occurred within 25 seconds.

The engine can start with no camshaft signal - it will be a hard start and a long start as it tries to guess if it is on a compression or expansion stroke (50/50 chance of being correct).

Do you have any non-stock extension harnesses, adapter harnesses etc. on the camshaft sensor for any reason?

Easy one would be to just try a different sensor. After that check wiring. Do you have access to a scan tool to watch cam sensor information? If not, what about a shop scope (Picoscope, SnapOn, etc.) to view/watch the camshaft pulse signals.

Do you have a scan tool? Especially one that can view the Freeze Frame Failure Records. This is a snapshot of the data from the engine when the diagnostic code is set. All newer OBDII vehicles are required to store this information when an engine diagnostic code is set. From that you could see the coolant temperature, engine RPM etc that existed when the code was set.

Also as someone pointed out, those codes are camshaft related so heat at crankshaft sensor shouldn't have anything to do with the codes.