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That's unfortunate. When I bought my ECS built car with 2000 miles. It ran perfectly on the 15 minute test drive. Signed the paper work and started to drive it home. On the way home the transmission started shifting on its own even in manual mode. After getting the run around from the dealership I decided to fix it myself. Thus making it my car rather than a car someone else built. Ive since then switch superchargers and about to start a motor build. It sucks but you get more attached to your car when you put alot of work into it versus already buying it built from someone else's hands.
Any idea what happened? Those bearings look lovely!
In all honesty, I am not too sure on what could cause premature bearing failure. Maybe a seasoned veteran can chime in on what may have caused that.
My only guess is loose tolerances in order to accommodate a boost happy motor? It did make it through 16000 miles of whatever abuse it was put through at that power level.
My guess is a rough life, poor oil or too long between changes or bearing clearance at build. If it's just bearings I'd be stoked!
Being that they were main bearings, my mechanic pretty much said the block is scrap but we will figure that out here in a little bit when the rest of the block is disassembled.
Here's my next question to you guys. For some damn reason, we cannot seem to separate the heads from the block. We went even down to the last little stud and we cannot separate them on either side. We have tried several different methods:
- Pry bar wedged against bolt threaded into head casting.
- Metal Bar down intake runner and attempted pry.
- Chisel and mallet on bottom of MLS head gaskets.
That's weird as hell. Could always put bolt a cherry picker on to the head somewhere and pull up on it. Can chain block to leg of cherry picker to stop it from going anywhere.
I had to do something similar once when tightening a BMW crank bolt to a torque that would make the LS one look like a joke
Being that they were main bearings, my mechanic pretty much said the block is scrap but we will figure that out here in a little bit when the rest of the block is disassembled.
Here's my next question to you guys. For some damn reason, we cannot seem to separate the heads from the block. We went even down to the last little stud and we cannot separate them on either side. We have tried several different methods:
- Pry bar wedged against bolt threaded into head casting.
- Metal Bar down intake runner and attempted pry.
- Chisel and mallet on bottom of MLS head gaskets.
Either side is not budging.
if they are 6 bolt heads you need to remove the valley cover to get to the bolts. Is the block for sale?
Yah, did you remove the nuts from the valley cover bolts that go down. There is studs that thread into the head and go down into the valley plate. That is the "6th" bolt. If you engine builder didn't know or can't figure that out, I would be running to a new place.
Yah, did you remove the nuts from the valley cover bolts that go down. There is studs that thread into the head and go down into the valley plate. That is the "6th" bolt. If you engine builder didn't know or can't figure that out, I would be running to a new place.
Got it thanks!!! The person helping me work on it currently is not my engine builder. He is a retired master technician from GM. He is used to older technology but the gentleman knows his stuff inside and out, that was the only snag we ran into the entire time. Having never seen my car before, we still managed to remove the entire engine in 4 hours. Credit given where credit is due. He was the one to stop the project when he couldn't figure out why. At the end of the day the last thing we removed was the valley cover, but did not think that there would be a bolt in there holding us back. Thank you for the insight.
if they are 6 bolt heads you need to remove the valley cover to get to the bolts. Is the block for sale?
I will assess damages and cost of rebuild and go from there. If it seems more convenient for me not to salvage this and that and machine this and that and regrind this and that then the block ultimately will be for sale.
Based off my needs for a boosted reliable engine, punching the motor out even more seems to be a no as a general consensus. I will keep you updated shortly on this.
Just found this as well.... This is where it gets really confusing for me... How in the world could I have babied the car for 1000 miles and this happens. I may have heard some of the previous versions of this callies crank had issues.
Anyone that can chime in would be greatly appreciated.
I considered this car because it looked and sounded amazing. My wife talked me out of it because it is red and she knows I want black. I hope you get to build an awesome motor and bring it back to life. Sorry for the loss though.
I considered this car because it looked and sounded amazing. My wife talked me out of it because it is red and she knows I want black. I hope you get to build an awesome motor and bring it back to life. Sorry for the loss though.
Yeah I almost pulled the trigger on it too the first time I went 4 sale.
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