While I agree that you shouldn't "need" a built bottom end for this power level, it would have been a good idea when you first damaged the engine.

That said, I'm a little baffled by what happened. Mainly because I've always thought of the shop you used as being pretty thorough and reputable. I wasn't totally happy with the tune they did for me, but it was definitely safe. They made a ton of loaded dyno pulls, and even pulled the plugs.

Maybe you have something strange going on with the fuel system. Do you have a wideband and/or fuel pressure gauge in the car? A wideband is a requirement in my opinion. Fuel pressure is good to be able to monitor, but not totally necessary if you can monitor AFR.

I haven't dealt with your shop in a long time, but I run into the owner every now and then at events. Their cars always runs strong and stay together from what I've seen. Unless something has changed, I wouldn't think your failures were due to an overly aggressive tune. I could be wrong, and without seeing the tune file it's pretty hard to say.

Best of luck. Let us know if we can help at all.

 

yeah, i'm surprised also given the shop. without a wideband and some timing numbers it's very hard to say but I'm wondering if an injector is failing or something? not expensive to send them out and have them rebuilt and balanced

 

Take it to CMS, be happy. This is all a tune/install issue.

 

I do not have gauges and wil hopefully buy them. I will also download hp tuner and give you guys so more info.

 

I will let the garage know and yes I did have the pistons dropped in.
Thanks! Ive used the supercharger for 100 miles since june because of all the problems. I havent had any real fun yet.

 

That's not a solution for him if you catch my drift....

 

I do, but then that leads me to believe there is a lot more to this story.

 

They said my afr is reading 11.2 and the injectors are fine.
They are going to lower my boost, add fuel and lower the timing.

 

You'd have thought they would have done that after the first time. At least the second two..

 

something else going on here, at 600whp with fresh bottom end, proven injectors and 11.2 afr this thing should have been fine? something doesn't make sense here

 

Tis a mystery

 

How does adjusting bracket doesnt change alignment of ribbed pulleys that are off alignment and what exactly is my fav guy suggesting, move bracket to the left? That makes no sense to me, it may not even be off actually.. Prob could be the belt has actually stretched over time and the belt could have slipped during a WOT hit which spun belt to the left.. My belts have ALL stretched over time.. Its just guessing again.. My belt did that same **** at the track during WOT. FSP has installed a few of these im sure they know how to align em up..

You honestly dont know youre just internet guessing too, the ONLY way youll know is if you are watching the belt while on the dyno or have a dayco tool used to laser align it but a tensioner is not gonna push the pulley off a rib when its a simple flat tensioned area just imo! unless your saying your tensioners are off horizontal axis too but they should all run flush with strong bearings.. How would a flat tensioner or idler pulley cause a serpentine belt to spin off a rib? Makes no sense..

I disagree, the A&A pulley is smart and doesnt mask anything IF your kit is made right simply putting that pulley on for me didnt mask anything it corrected the issue and ive NEVER had a belt look like THAT since.. Not one schredded either Tks to A&A..:thumbsup: Only flip drive pulleys have broken my 4 rib belt twice! which is the weak link of the flip drive..

Same as i never liked the cog idea as i said a whiiile ago and seeing how it doesnt work well on flip drive imo.. but nobody will tell the truth it will be deleted or masked the masses jump on etc.. Cogs are much more difficult to get perfect and aligning cog teeth are a nightmare vs aligning a serpentine setup.. All just opinions again..

OP you or your shop will need to actually fix it.. Same with pistons blowing, its just internet guessing for the most part. Good luck in your tough journey. All these blower items have a breaking point so dig deep you need to spec every single item down to the bearing.. these things dont break by surprise, they have a max rpm on each pulley, pump, bolt, bearing, and belt but im sure ECS calculated all of that before production to ensure us a perfect kit..

 

I had a tensioner cause a belt to jump 2 ribs. With someone revving the engine to put a load on the belt you could see the tensioner pulling the belt to the side.

 

The tensioner on the ECS kits has an adjustment where you can change the angle of the whole tensioner. I guess it's to take into account some casting differences between different engines, etc., but if it's set wrong I would think it could push the belt a direction you don't want it going. I adjusted mine when I fixed the alignment on the blower and alternator a while back and haven't had any issues since (obviously I'm nowhere near the power level of some of you guys though). Whether the tensioner angle made any real difference or not, I have no idea. I just know I'm not seeing chunks of belt in my pullies anymore and haven't lost a belt since

 

Cog flip drive works AMAZINGLY well. Zero issues, and the only setup that has been reliable for high HP.

Yes 100% the flat tensioner can cause belt alignment issues. Seen it MANY MANY times.

 

I know people say it (COG) works "amazingly well" some say it sucks etc.. I just said IMO i would rather have a serp system just IMO again. Also i said how does bracket adjust level of the tensioner, i was hoping instead of peeps throwing comments to explain to the community and others how EXACTLY does a flat tensioner on the ECS kit pull a belt to the left. Bolt misaligned what? That would help others not recreating the wheel vs yea i did that and now no issues.. So now we have multiple threads with the title not very descriptive and neither are the comments of how exactly to FIX lol.. Great way to pull info would be here, then peeps get frustrated when they see duplicate efforts/threads... Oh well good luck op wish u the best.

Again this is IMO and I have ran a street cog before and its a nightmare. Not that others havent had issues on here and if cog is so amazing why is it discontinued? Just my thoughts.

 

I have to agree ... Every GM accessory I've seen has a lip on the pulley. On my Mustangs - I remember the idlers even having lips on them.
Since there is absolutely nothing on Earth that is "perfect" I like the idea of a lip on the pulley's if at all possible.

 

The issue with the edged pulleys and the reason we do not use them is because if the belt jumps a rib it rolls the belt over and cuts a rib off. Before it comes completely off it slings around the engine compartment cutting hood liners etc.
With a non edged pulley it just jumps a rib and continues on often without the driver even being aware until something under the hood is being serviced.
A properly set up belt does not typically ever jump a rib, so we feel it is the better of the two evils so to speak.

 

Well I was told that the everything is alligned properly and all I need to do is get the A&A pulley so I have no idea on that part.
I just dont want to break more pistons. Im not prepared to keep on paying $1xxx every couple of weeks.

 

Cog belt isn't discontinued. Ugh

And a cog on the blower pulley is totally different from a cogged direct drive that people are talking about.