Spark plug replacement on boosted engine
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 28
From: O'Fallon IL
Spark plug replacement on boosted engine
How often do you replace the spark plugs on your boosted ride? I use the ac delco 41-104 iridium (z06, zr1) oem plug gapped .032. The ones currently on the car are around 10 months old.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,821
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From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
Mine were still like new after 2 seasons and about 5000 miles. I changed them anyways when changing blowers since I wanted everything to be new from that point.
I don't use iridium though so cant speak for those.
I will check these at the end of each season and change when needed.
I don't use iridium though so cant speak for those.
I will check these at the end of each season and change when needed.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 28
From: O'Fallon IL
I don't know how many miles but probably more than what you have. I know iridiums are supposed to last longer than the copper ones but I feel that forced induction shortens the lifespan on them too. My question is how can you tell when the iridium spark plugs are failing? The fuel economy on my vette is getting bad and I feel a slight hiccup while cruising. Idle feels a little rougher too.
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Every other oil change is way, way overkill, especially on Iridiums, unless you're running rich as hell all the time (i.e. open loop and forcing it to run that rich)
I say run'em till they misfire
I say run'em till they misfire
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 28
From: O'Fallon IL
I think you run the tr7ix, correct? I'm thinking that the "flooded" starts that I experienced after moving the IAT sensor to the intake and not using the zr1 data correctly put a toll on the spark plugs. I'm going to remove a couple of them sometime today or tomorrow and take a look.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 112
From: ocean springs mississippi
I think you run the tr7ix, correct? I'm thinking that the "flooded" starts that I experienced after moving the IAT sensor to the intake and not using the zr1 data correctly put a toll on the spark plugs. I'm going to remove a couple of them sometime today or tomorrow and take a look.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
I think you run the tr7ix, correct? I'm thinking that the "flooded" starts that I experienced after moving the IAT sensor to the intake and not using the zr1 data correctly put a toll on the spark plugs. I'm going to remove a couple of them sometime today or tomorrow and take a look.
Either way, I can't really see that permanently damaging the plugs. They should clean up during normal driving. Iridium plugs should have a very long life. I think a stock ZR1 is supposed to be good for 100k.
Oh, and if you're looking for plug recommendations, check out the Denso IT22. They're a "7" heat range, and come pre-gapped at .032". Denso makes the OEM ZR1 plugs, so I'm thinking they'll be a good, trouble free choice. I have a set ready to throw in to replace my TR7ix's when I feel like it.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
Likes: 2,342
From: Gilbert AZ
I think you run the tr7ix, correct? I'm thinking that the "flooded" starts that I experienced after moving the IAT sensor to the intake and not using the zr1 data correctly put a toll on the spark plugs. I'm going to remove a couple of them sometime today or tomorrow and take a look.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 28
From: O'Fallon IL
Maybe I missed it, but did changing to the ZR1 IAT2 data and axis labels fix your startup issues?
Either way, I can't really see that permanently damaging the plugs. They should clean up during normal driving. Iridium plugs should have a very long life. I think a stock ZR1 is supposed to be good for 100k.
Oh, and if you're looking for plug recommendations, check out the Denso IT22. They're a "7" heat range, and come pre-gapped at .032". Denso makes the OEM ZR1 plugs, so I'm thinking they'll be a good, trouble free choice. I have a set ready to throw in to replace my TR7ix's when I feel like it.
Either way, I can't really see that permanently damaging the plugs. They should clean up during normal driving. Iridium plugs should have a very long life. I think a stock ZR1 is supposed to be good for 100k.
Oh, and if you're looking for plug recommendations, check out the Denso IT22. They're a "7" heat range, and come pre-gapped at .032". Denso makes the OEM ZR1 plugs, so I'm thinking they'll be a good, trouble free choice. I have a set ready to throw in to replace my TR7ix's when I feel like it.
Thx
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
I have yet to try the Denso plugs, but a bunch of guys swear by them. I figure they're as close to a "7" range OEM plug as you can get. A bunch of people have issues with NGKs causing charging warnings, plus they come gapped at .040". Since gapping iridium plugs is a little dicey, the IT22 coming at .032" is a nice touch.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 28
From: O'Fallon IL
I don't know if I should start another thread but I guess I was too fast to call the IAT sensor changes in the ECM successful. Yesterday afternoon and today twice the same symptoms reappeared! This time it takes a while to start and I have to actually press the gas pedal some. I'm pissed at this point!
This always happens after engine has been brought to operating temps, shut if off and try to restart half hour later or so. It starts perfectly every time when cold. Another thing I noticed is that it runs somewhat rough idling and cruising until the temps reach 180 or so.
Any suggestions other than relocating the iat sensor to the charge pipe right after the maf?
This always happens after engine has been brought to operating temps, shut if off and try to restart half hour later or so. It starts perfectly every time when cold. Another thing I noticed is that it runs somewhat rough idling and cruising until the temps reach 180 or so.
Any suggestions other than relocating the iat sensor to the charge pipe right after the maf?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 28
From: O'Fallon IL
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
I already told you what I think it is. I really doubt moving the sensor 4 inches forward is going to change much, but that's just my opinion.