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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 07:13 PM
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I third the kick in the nuts
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 07:29 PM
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So I found the next guy that needs a good solid kick to the nuts, whoever the DA was that installed the harmonic balancer pulley. I started this morning around 8, subframe loose, motor mounts unbolted, engine jacked up for clearance, wow, things are moving smoothly. Get just enought clearance to get my 1/2 inch electric impact in there, verify the direction to loosen, and no go. Try several times, not budging. Ok, look for a strap wrench, going to do it old fashioned way. Nope, mine won't fit, lacks several inches. The instructions say air impact, ok go out and buy one with 650 ft lbs of torque. Won't budge it, run down the air compressor. Try and try, not good. Pull out the torch, heat it up, not too much don't want to fry the seal, won't budge. Go out to buy a chain wrench to hold that damn pulley, guess, what, it's one damn link too short. Go out again, buy another one just to get the frigging chain, buy a chain break, fix one that is long enought, get it set, pull out the 1/2 breaker bar set it up, almost give myself a stroke trying to break that bolt loose. Grab a pipe, get 5 foot of leverage going, still cannot break that bolt.

So, I guess the only plan I have now is to finish the charger install, without pinning the crank, try to get into a shop for the dyno, and pay them to pin it. What a load of crap.

Anyone have any words of wisdom? All of my words might get me kicked off the forum.
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 07:41 PM
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Is yours an M6 or auto?
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 07:47 PM
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Really all you can do is get a longer pipe, get more people to help pull on the pipe you have, or a bigger impact.

The first time I used a 3/4" drive breaker bar that was 2' long and put a 6' piece of black iron pipe on that and it still took everything I had to get it to go.

Second time I had a strong enough impact wrench to get it off (though having been off once probably helped)
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Is yours an M6 or auto?
It's an auto, so I can't do the transmission lock. I gave up on it today, took tomorrow off, guess I'll give it one more attempt in the morning after I have my Wheaties, then move on with plan B. Just have to keep it out of boost until I can get it in the shop so I don't spin the pulley, if that is even possible. If that's the case, it's really gonna **** me off. After all this work, I really want to see what it will do.
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 08:19 PM
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Yeah you should be fine to get it to a shop, at least IMO. Hopefully you can get it off in the morning and not have to deal with paying a shop to do it though.

These crank bolts are tight, but I think the tightest I've ever seen was on a BMW V8 engine. I literally was in the air, hanging on the end of 6 feet of pipe when trying to loosen the crank bolt on that thing. I'm not that heavy so I guess that didn't help me there. It sounded like a gun shot when it finally broke loose

I hope yours takes less than that!

Last edited by schpenxel; Feb 28, 2016 at 08:29 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 08:28 PM
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You probably need the tool that locks the flywheel. You have to remove the starter and it bolts there.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0326/overview/
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 09:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by realcanuk
You probably need the tool that locks the flywheel. You have to remove the starter and it bolts there.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0326/overview/
Yeah, couldn't find one today. I finally got the pulley locked down with the modified chain wrench, and put my jack handle on a 2' breaker bar, put my 220 lbs of lard behind it and couldn't budge it so the flywheel lock wouldn't have done any good.

I think I'll go rent a badazz compressor tomorrow, and see if the impact I bought can get it. My compressor is a bit weak for the impact.
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 09:27 PM
  #29  
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I vote longe pipe
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 11:33 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Woodstoc
So I found the next guy that needs a good solid kick to the nuts, whoever the DA was that installed the harmonic balancer pulley. I started this morning around 8, subframe loose, motor mounts unbolted, engine jacked up for clearance, wow, things are moving smoothly. Get just enought clearance to get my 1/2 inch electric impact in there, verify the direction to loosen, and no go. Try several times, not budging. Ok, look for a strap wrench, going to do it old fashioned way. Nope, mine won't fit, lacks several inches. The instructions say air impact, ok go out and buy one with 650 ft lbs of torque. Won't budge it, run down the air compressor. Try and try, not good. Pull out the torch, heat it up, not too much don't want to fry the seal, won't budge. Go out to buy a chain wrench to hold that damn pulley, guess, what, it's one damn link too short. Go out again, buy another one just to get the frigging chain, buy a chain break, fix one that is long enought, get it set, pull out the 1/2 breaker bar set it up, almost give myself a stroke trying to break that bolt loose. Grab a pipe, get 5 foot of leverage going, still cannot break that bolt.

So, I guess the only plan I have now is to finish the charger install, without pinning the crank, try to get into a shop for the dyno, and pay them to pin it. What a load of crap.

Anyone have any words of wisdom? All of my words might get me kicked off the forum.
That's another thing I forgot about, probably because I had blocked it out of my memory!
IIRC, it took me about 2-3 hours of heating with a MAP torch, cursing, and beating on and off at that goddam bolt with a 1/2" air impact before, all of a sudden, it started to move.
You are right a that with air impacts, you have to make sure you have the CFM the impact needs for it to work properly. And make sure that the compressor pressure is fully pumped up before using the impact and keep beating in it as long as you can and then stop and let the compressor charge up again and heat it while you wait for that. I've had the experience working on heavy machinery with a 3/4" impact that just something like changing the size of the hose makes a world of difference.
If that doesn't work, pull the rubber plug on the backside of the bellhousing and jam a prybar into the converter mounting lug and then use a breaker bar with a pipe extension over the handle to break the HB bolt that way. Good luck with that, it's a sumbitch for sure.
Then, of course, you have to tighten it again too, when you're done!
Once you have the bolt pulled, be prepared to spend a bit of time drilling on that crank too. That ba$tard is hard too!
Just make sure that you have the engine high enough off the cradle so that the steering rack is out of your way.
You've got a few more hours of cursing, I'm afraid, but after that it should get better!
Good luck. I feel your pain, my brother!
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 11:40 PM
  #31  
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Just read your later post. That is one frustrating bolt. I think you may be pleasantly surprised what the bigger compressor will do if your impact puts out 650 ft.lbs.
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 07:29 AM
  #32  
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Yeah, give your impact some more air. If that doesn't do it, I've got a 3/4 drive impact that you can borrow. If it gets that far, you may need to take some measurements to make sure you can get it in there.
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 08:06 AM
  #33  
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This makes me almost dread going back at that damn bolt to do the cam change, especially since I soaked it red locktite.
But if it screws around with me, I've got a 2200 ft.lb. torque multiplier that my guys use on my machinery. That'll sort it out real quick.
I bought it from Northern Tool (link below). Works real good. Just make sure that you anchor the multiplier handle securely on something that won't break off, before you put force on the ratchet handle, because that's going to see 3 times the force you exert on the ratchet handle. I've used a pipe on a 3/4" breaker bar with this thing on one occasion and it didn't break (but it did twist off the 1 1/2" grade 8 bolts that we were trying to remove easily). One of my guys insisted on holding on to the multiplier handle and when I pulled on the pipe, it lifted him clean off the ground. Sometimes there's nothing like demonstration to drive a point home.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...3947_200623947
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 08:09 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by old motorhead
Yeah, give your impact some more air. If that doesn't do it, I've got a 3/4 drive impact that you can borrow. If it gets that far, you may need to take some measurements to make sure you can get it in there.
The 3/4" impact should do it, if he gets a big enough compressor to run it.
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 05:13 PM
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Tackled that bolt with fresh vigor this morning, so fresh that I broke my 2' breaker rachet when I put the lift handle on it and got after it again. Chalk up another win for the bolt.

Started calling around for a compressor to rent, could not find one better than mine that didn't have to have a trailer anywhere close by.

Went back out, Glared at the bolt, grabbed the propane torch, heated the bitch up again, hit it with the air impact again, and off it came.......What a chump azz piece o'crap.

So a whole day wasted on one silly bolt. Making some good progress now, hitting the coil packs next.
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 06:51 PM
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Glad you got it done! My 3/4" drive probably would have done it if you could get it in there. My 1" would have done it for sure, but it's 2+ feet long and weighs about 25lbs. Try not to even pick that one up much any more. Young man's tool right there

Last edited by old motorhead; Feb 29, 2016 at 06:52 PM.
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 07:40 PM
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Good job Woodstoc. Glad you got that sucker out. It should be easy going from here on, except for those two rear lid bolts!
I'm wondering why "that guy" above with all of those heavy duty tools hasn't pulled his balancer and installed the new cam yet??!!
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CI GS
Good job Woodstoc. Glad you got that sucker out. It should be easy going from here on, except for those two rear lid bolts!
I'm wondering why "that guy" above with all of those heavy duty tools hasn't pulled his balancer and installed the new cam yet??!!
Yep, sure glad to have that done, put me way behind. Up to the point of pulling the lid off the charger. Wrapping it up for the night, my old butt is beat.

He prob dreading tackling that damn bolt, and I don't blame him!
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by CI GS
Good job Woodstoc. Glad you got that sucker out. It should be easy going from here on, except for those two rear lid bolts!
I'm wondering why "that guy" above with all of those heavy duty tools hasn't pulled his balancer and installed the new cam yet??!!
Yep, sure glad to have that done, put me way behind. Up to the point of pulling the lid off the charger. Wrapping it up for the night, my old butt is beat.

He prob dreading tackling that damn bolt, and I don't blame him!



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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by CI GS
Good job Woodstoc. Glad you got that sucker out. It should be easy going from here on, except for those two rear lid bolts!
I'm wondering why "that guy" above with all of those heavy duty tools hasn't pulled his balancer and installed the new cam yet??!!
Ok, so found the next guy worthy of a kick in the nads. Whoever at Magusen that decided to put those damn bolts at the back.. From Below..
could have designed an angled back a bit and allowed bolting from the top, but no. How the hell did you get those bolts in and tightened. Guess I'll see if I can drop a bit more on the subframe, my hands are not small....
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