Heartbeat arrived!

Seriously though, I'll probably order one at some stage, probably soon, so that I can replace it when I go at the cam.

Woodstoc is probably already out on the road testing already. Or he developed a migraine when he saw that picture above of the new Magnuson!

I'm still pissed that they didn't do that with our blowers!

As for quotes, everytime I look at the duct tape on my shroud, I remember the star of the Red Green Show saying (whilst holding up a roll of duct tape) "Duct tape! Because if you can't be handsome, you might as well be handy!!"
However, I found the issue. Kept getting a code for the MAP/MAF sensor, so I switched back to the original MAP, still not joy, ran like crap, and like burned bag of crap, crap. I swung by the dealer today to pick up the stock shroud (mine looks better than yours ....) and on a whim, bought another MAF sensor as well. Plugged it in, and BAM, the car runs and idles. PUt back in the ZR1 MAP, and went ahead and downloaded the Maggie tune, and BAM, the car runs and idles. Just went for a test drive and all is golden. Even took it a few lbs into boost.
Going to be careful with it until I get the dyno tune done, but wow, nice to have it run at least. Looking forward to dropping a little weight from the tires.....
BTW....Thanks to all of the brothers in boost for the helpful advice during this project, As always, the people on the forum rock.
Last edited by Woodstoc; Mar 5, 2016 at 06:32 PM.
BTW the tuner you steered me to doesn't tune anymore, only sells parts, some issue with the County. I found a company called D3 that looks pretty good. I'll either go with them or LMR for the dyno tune.
However, I found the issue. Kept getting a code for the MAP/MAF sensor, so I switched back to the original MAP, still not joy, ran like crap, and like burned bag of crap, crap. I swung by the dealer today to pick up the stock shroud (mine looks better than yours ....) and on a whim, bought another MAF sensor as well. Plugged it in, and BAM, the car runs and idles. PUt back in the ZR1 MAP, and went ahead and downloaded the Maggie tune, and BAM, the car runs and idles. Just went for a test drive and all is golden. Even took it a few lbs into boost.
Going to be careful with it until I get the dyno tune done, but wow, nice to have it run at least. Looking forward to dropping a little weight from the tires.....
BTW....Thanks to all of the brothers in boost for the helpful advice during this project, As always, the people on the forum rock.

Feels good to get it going again, don't it? Almost makes you forget about the missing skin!

I don't think Magnuson changed (or will change) the design of the C6 units. That pic is their new unit for the new Camaro with the LT1 engine. I see some other improvements, like a smaller bearing housing on the drive pulley. They should be able to put a small pulley on that.

Sorry to hear that you can't use the tunes. I'm still sticking to my advice to go with a 90mm for now and then upgrade to the 81mm later if and when you change injectors and add meth.
Those MAF sensors are sensitive. I had a similar problem the other day when I was messing around with the inlet (pulling those sound deadening pads out of it) I had to pull the MAF sensor out to do that and when I tried it afterwards the car was lugging and bucking like crazy. All I did was pull it back out, spray some electrical cleaner on it (even though I had done it before) and then put it back in again, and it's been smooth as silk ever since. Not sure wtf was up with all of that!?

I guess I will have to buy a new shroud now, since I'm starting to feel really shamed by sharing that picture with you guys!

Good work, and welcome to the world of boost!
Because natural aspiration really just sucks...
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


I have a feeling that back when he tackled those two rear bolts, he already thought that you had sent him in the wrong direction...
BTW - I was so tired of working on the beast, that I figured out a way to do the Shroud easy, in case you decide to get one. Rather than take the INtercoolers lines off, and do all that again, I cut the old shroud above the coolant lines, along a convenient line, leaving the coolant lines intact. Then I cut the new one just below that, leaving enought to overlap and attach. Much quicker, and you don't see it. Just a tip back in your direction....
Mr CI has already answered more about it.. but yeah, there's one wire you have to run from it over to the input on dash logic, then there is some setup you have to do on the dash logic unit so it knows what to do with the newly found 0-5V signal
) until you get it tuned.
) until you get it tuned.
. I knocked down a few Woodford Reserves to celebrate...

Here's that photo I promised. Sorry it's so crappy, but I was kinda shaky when I took the photo. I snapped it in the darkness of my garage after running the smack outta some fop in a dressed up Mazda RX8 this afternoon, and had to run home and hide, just in case I might've disturbed the peace enough to wake up one of our finest!

The old Vette whopped some Wankel butt, big time. I was a real gentleman about it too, gave Wankel boy a running head start, then kicked it down and ran right by him, and by the time I had reached the top of fourth, he was a distant memory.

Of course then when we got back on a busy road and there was traffic up ahead, he decided to inspect my rear bumper and pulled right up behind me, as if we could somehow fly over cars! What a dumbass. Worse part was that the wifey was in the car with me and she didn't say anything on the drive home, literally not a word!

At first I thought I was sleeping in the garage tonight, but it turned out (luckily) that she's wasn't fussed at all. I guess she's become quite used to me and the Vette now.

Oh well, I guess it really is time for a power upgrade!

OK, back to the photo, hopefully you can see the pole on the PLX box that's used (grey wire- comes with the PLX) and where it goes on the Dashlogic. As schpenxel said, you need to configure your Dashlogic to read the analog input, but you can get that from the instructional manual.

Here's that photo I promised. Sorry it's so crappy, but I was kinda shaky when I took the photo. I snapped it in the darkness of my garage after running the smack outta some fop in a dressed up Mazda RX8 this afternoon, and had to run home and hide, just in case I might've disturbed the peace enough to wake up one of our finest!

The old Vette whopped some Wankel butt, big time. I was a real gentleman about it too, gave Wankel boy a running head start, then kicked it down and ran right by him, and by the time I had reached the top of fourth, he was a distant memory.

Of course then when we got back on a busy road and there was traffic up ahead, he decided to inspect my rear bumper and pulled right up behind me, as if we could somehow fly over cars! What a dumbass. Worse part was that the wifey was in the car with me and she didn't say anything on the drive home, literally not a word!

At first I thought I was sleeping in the garage tonight, but it turned out (luckily) that she's wasn't fussed at all. I guess she's become quite used to me and the Vette now.

Oh well, I guess it really is time for a power upgrade!

OK, back to the photo, hopefully you can see the pole on the PLX box that's used (grey wire- comes with the PLX) and where it goes on the Dashlogic. As schpenxel said, you need to configure your Dashlogic to read the analog input, but you can get that from the instructional manual.












