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Problem is I'm over 20lbs boost, too much for a stock LS3. Don't want to pulley down to keep max boost under 12-15 because I'll lose boost on the low end. A fixed restrictor can be used to set the high limit but something programmable might be better and possibly flatten out the torque curve or track a boost profile vs RPM. A $100 throttle body can be mounted at the end of the inlet pipe, and screwed to the air filter where the fixed restrictor is. Some simple electronics could be used to accept a user configured profile or max boost setting, then monitor kPa and RPM and use that as feedback to control the motor in the throttle body. Total cost under $200
If you can make it work im in on the group buy kit lol!
Not here to make money, but I'll get it to work for sure and build another one for you at cost if it work. Just might not be able to road test it until spring. Probably control it with an excel spreadsheet for the curve, then FTP it into the controller with an ethernet cable. or dump it in with a USB connection so nothing to elegant
I use a waste gate on the hot side charge pipe to reduce boost at the engine. I use an electronic boost controler to control boost levels via the waste gate.
On my novi 1500 with 3.25 pulley no restrictor in the intake I see 8psi peak the engine. I can hit a button and add boost instantly.
Nooch8it, does this make your IAT's alot warmer than would be otherwise? Are you using an e-boost or similar...?
Ideally i would love to be able to run 91 @ ~9psi and E85 @14psi with a flex fuel sensor.
Would be awesome to change fuel and hit a button to add an additional 100+whp for those real special occasions lol!
I use a waste gate on the hot side charge pipe to reduce boost at the engine. I use an electronic boost controler to control boost levels via the waste gate.
On my novi 1500 with 3.25 pulley no restrictor in the intake I see 8psi peak the engine. I can hit a button and add boost instantly.
That was my original plan but a lot of people said "that won't work" or "nobody does that" and couldn't get a solid reason from them.
Working on the pressure side makes a lot more sense and would be easier to control. The opening/closing of the valve or throttle body would be more linear in relation to boost. I think the suction side would be a lot harder to control unless it was a Iris type opening and those valves are north of $600. Pressure side probably has less turbulence and less parasitic losses since it's relieving head pressure and not reducing inlet flow, and less heat. Again, everyone said it wouldn't work.
I see the same intake temps as the stock ecs system with restrictor. 140 iat in 90+ degrees weather here in fl with no meth.
The waste gate works perfectly it just bleeds off excess boost based on user input. Having the WG on the hot side keeps the turbulence same as stock. The bar and plate intercooler does its job as usual.
The best part is that it's not expensive. Waste gates are designed to handle high heat so use on boost piping is very easy on them. I run a innovate ebc with afr gauge. This watches afr and can cut boost if a lean condition is detected. I'm running this with a 44mm ebay cheapo gate that cost 90$ shipped.
My only complaint is I wish we had better/cheaper options for boost by gear controllers. This setup with full boost by gear or speed would be awesome.
Glad you commented here. Guess I'll rethink this whole thing and run the fixed restrictor till until then. The car launches great @ 4000/6psi and climbs right to 6000/15 but never really hooks until 2nd no matter how hot I get the tires. Would be nice to dial it in lower until 2 or 3rd.. Would be nice to leave at 4k/6psi to 7k/9psi, 2nd, 3rd and 4th from 9 - 15. Autometer has a nice controller with Boost by gear but it's expensive.
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We have wastegates on several cars, we use it for boost by gear. It works just like it would on a turbo.
Use the smallest waste gate you can find, since it's not a turbo there isn't much to bleed off so you will get better resolution from the controller. A larger one will bleed off too much with a very small increment on the controller.
We tried exactly what you have described in the first post and we found it was just too complicated, so we scratched that idea. Not saying to not give it a try, just letting you know our experience with it.
We have wastegates on several cars, we use it for boost by gear. It works just like it would on a turbo.
Use the smallest waste gate you can find, since it's not a turbo there isn't much to bleed off so you will get better resolution from the controller. A larger one will bleed off too much with a very small increment on the controller.
We tried exactly what you have described in the first post and we found it was just too complicated, so we scratched that idea. Not saying to not give it a try, just letting you know our experience with it.
Thanks Doug. Definatley not trying to re-invent the wheel, just want to go fast and keep all the rods inside the motor
Wastegates work just fine, if positioned and sized properly.
So do solenoid valves to bleed air. Cheap and easy. Just finished a set that uses a 12V solenoid valve tied to a MPH switch. Bleeds boost until you hit set speed, then closes it and ramps up to full boost. Could easily wire it into a switch.
If you put too big of a wastegate, or it in a bad spot, it can cause a weird sine looking boost curve, or other issues.
In your case, it takes <10 minutes to swap the blower pulley. Just put a bigger one on until you have a build motor.
Wastegates work just fine, if positioned and sized properly.
So do solenoid valves to bleed air. Cheap and easy. Just finished a set that uses a 12V solenoid valve tied to a MPH switch. Bleeds boost until you hit set speed, then closes it and ramps up to full boost. Could easily wire it into a switch.
If you put too big of a wastegate, or it in a bad spot, it can cause a weird sine looking boost curve, or other issues.
In your case, it takes <10 minutes to swap the blower pulley. Just put a bigger one on until you have a build motor.
Is it better to place it before or after the intercooler?
Wastegates work just fine, if positioned and sized properly.
So do solenoid valves to bleed air. Cheap and easy. Just finished a set that uses a 12V solenoid valve tied to a MPH switch. Bleeds boost until you hit set speed, then closes it and ramps up to full boost. Could easily wire it into a switch.
If you put too big of a wastegate, or it in a bad spot, it can cause a weird sine looking boost curve, or other issues.
In your case, it takes <10 minutes to swap the blower pulley. Just put a bigger one on until you have a build motor.
I'll pick up a small gate used on some 4 cylinder rice burner or something, probably only need 1 sq/inch area to vent. Thinking of putting it on before the intercooler also to avoid heating the air only to blow it off later, also less turbulence at the throttle body the further away I'd imagine. (And I can still run MAF )
The solenoid would work great to clip the max but I want to screw with a gear dependent boost controller. More **** to play with.
Granted a wastegate + controller is the most logical way, especially for boost by gear...
But for a "poor mans" setup specifically for pump vs e85 fuel change where you'd want to drastically change boost, what about using the BOV and a PCV valve in the vacuum/boost line to limit boost?
Under vacuum the BOV will operate as it normally does, under boost, there will be no more additional pressure (0psi) on the BOV and boost would be limited to just what the spring can manage(1 or 2 psi).
However, based on what was said about too large of a waste gate, would things get erratic?
Last edited by JasonCzerak; Nov 10, 2016 at 05:10 PM.
The bov staying open would bleed off all the boost. Have two stages of boost, hi and low boost also allows for that fuel change. The waste gate system is not expensive I have about 400$ into mine and 300$ of that is my ebc. With a cheaper ebc it could be done for 250$ or less.
I have a full e85 ready system and flex fuel sensor so I will be running two boost levels depending on fuel.......my only hesitation is trying to keep my 6l80 alive and happy.
Jason your bov idea is actually already being done. This new bov from turbo smart could be perfect for boost control on a supercharger. In the video he talks about using it to control boost on a launch controller but im sure it could be used the same way with a centrifugal for different boost levels. https://www.facebook.com/HPAcademy/videos/1170636943028424/
Also I recently read about a procharger kit developed for a ktm450 which uses the bov to bypass air to allow the bike to produce the same power at different altitudes.
Jason your bov idea is actually already being done. This new bov from turbo smart could be perfect for boost control on a supercharger. In the video he talks about using it to control boost on a launch controller but im sure it could be used the same way with a centrifugal for different boost levels. https://www.facebook.com/HPAcademy/v...0636943028424/
Also I recently read about a procharger kit developed for a ktm450 which uses the bov to bypass air to allow the bike to produce the same power at different altitudes.
Neat! That avoids welding stuff up for sure! Thanks for the link.
1500SL Map referenced boost controller
