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Got everything done with just the BAP to finish up on now.
I started up with the stock tune still in. Just did that to get fuel to the rails and the first movement of all the new rotating parts. Then shut it down and installed the FI tune. I ran this for about 30 mins on and off to get fluids back in order. Had one very small leak on the splice I installed in the trans cooler line. I underestimated the clamps on that splice, a 5 min fix. Brought the temp up to 190. Shut it down for the night.
Tomorrow/Thursday I am busy with actual consulting work, but by Friday I will get out and do some datalogging under 3K rpm. By the WE I'll tackle the BAP then onto fine tuning Fulltime.
I just want to say thanks to a whole lot of people here and on HPT too. You guys are great beyond belief.
Andy and Josh at A&A
Unreal
and others, too.
But I want to give a special thanks to Schpenxel (Carson) who is about the most helpful/patient guy on the planet! He has been there for me in my stupidest of times....And I really appreciate that!
Bet I can do this a lot faster the second time....but that will never happen!
So, I managed to get out on the street this morning and ran a couple of datalogs, still W/O the BAP. It was cool (60) and took a lot longer to warm up to 190. Got a couple of long steady 2K to 25K to 28K RPM runs. I did blip it twice into boost, one 6250 rpm and another about 5800.
I seem to be fairly lean at idle to about 1500/1600; 1.03 to 1.05 Lambda. Then I start hitting about 1/0.99 and breaking again at about 2500 where it gets a little richer =.96. At about 3150, I go lean again 1.01, but timing now is dropping off considerably. By 4800 rpm I was only advanced 11.1. Finally once in PE and 6200 I was running a .79L
Don't mean to make this blow by blow, just to say I didn't see anything in the DLs that would be unsafe.
Next is the BAP then some more extended DLs
Last edited by BlindSpot; Nov 16, 2016 at 03:01 PM.
BAP is in and running. There were some things I didn't like so I had some rework. One item was the mounting. The #8 x 1/2 self-tap sheet metal screws were underwhelming to hang such a heavy box, so I redrilled and used #12 x 3/4 self-tap SM screws in three places.
I decided against the Racetronix harness, for the price and the extra wait. Since I was only splicing into one wire, I thought the harness was way overpriced. I set up the splice so if I have to reverse it, the reconnection (minus the BAP) will be clean and have integrity. I'll use some crimp bullet connectors to replace the splice.
On another topic, I found the Vortech WAY overfilled from the factory. Like better than an ounce and a half overfilled. Got that and all of the other fluids stabilized again.
Then another issue, First time out of the garage, the radiator carriage sits so low now that I scraped the bottom getting off my lift. I also have a pretty bad first intersection getting off my cul de sac. So I've begun actually raising my front suspension, when everyone else is trying to lower it. I've only pulled up 1/4" but I want at least another 1/4 to 3/8. I've never been into the lowered look so doesn't bother me. I'll do a complete realignment pretty soon. I do those right on my lift so I can cover it anytime.
So, this afternoon I got out and did some DLs. I did some 2nd and third gear rolling pulls up to redline. Got a lot of knock with the 3rd gear pull. The second gear pulls were better, so now...the learning begins!
Glad you got it up and running. Always satisfying to do it yourself.
I have to disagree and I actually think the racetronix harness is very reasonably priced for what you get. Probably best value of anything on my car. Drawing power direct from the alternator is a big plus as well as easy wiring for the BAP.
As long as you got it working well all is good I suppose.
So, after some more fiddling with suspension height to get the radiator cradle up some more, I took a drive today and definitely lost both toe and camber. I'm back on my lift now and next step is change back to my non-RF and black wheels and I'll do a complete 4 wheel align. It'll take a full day either Sat or Sun BC I fuss with alignment until it is perfect. I might consider looking into a Dewitts FI radiator, only if I can get back some ride height. Coolant temps, BTW, are quite normal, but fans run considerably more, per the FI tune. Highest I've hit sitting around at stoplights is 205.
I cannot believe the "seat of the pants" performance improvement the FI makes. Dollars per pound, I would recommend this upgrade over other NA routes as the car remains very docile unless you are demanding. And, I chose the smallest (Si-Trim, low boost) most modest FI route. I am very pleased with this outcome; I didn't imagine more than what I have.
You guys are missing my issue. My problem was at TOP. Remember, I could not make the final connection to the CAI horn and filter. Nor could two other installs on post 2007 LS3s. With a complete top row of radiator coils missing (probably a good inch or more), now I could make the prescribed connection I and two other couldn't....OR....I could keep the creative one I came up with myself and eliminate the spacers on the under carriage and gain about an inch of "precious" space below....Capish?
Last edited by BlindSpot; Nov 18, 2016 at 08:03 PM.
. I might consider looking into a Dewitts FI radiator, only if I can get back some ride height.
We are responding to that statement. Obviously you are talking, but have no intention of listening.
I'm out. Good luck.
At this point I appreciate that "you're out" as you appear to want to skim read and only understand half the issue, and I am unwilling to describe the entire problem over again just for you. So, thanks for your input up to this point, and good luck to you as well, and I trust I can count on you not responding again to this thread.
Last edited by BlindSpot; Nov 18, 2016 at 08:24 PM.
Absolutely idiotic to run a cut down radiator. Intake fits fine on stock radiator. Thousands do it. Running a shorter radiator just causes more cooling issues.
Jody has ran and installed plenty of A&A kits. He is giving great advice.
You can't just delete the spacers. Kit is designed around it. Lower pipe won't fit, etc if you do that.
The extra 100lbs on the front tends to lower the car ~3/4" of an inch. You just need to raise it back up to where it was before, and no issues.
I have an immense appreciation for knowledge and expertise and those who have it, and are willing to share it. I do that where I have knowledge, but I have no tolerance for prima donnas.
I never asked you a question. I made a statement about what I was going to do. I never asked you for anything, you simply butted in and imposed yourself onto this issue and you didn't even take the time to understand what you were responding to.
In the last two months, I've worked a complete FI install and tune for the first time and got up and running with help from some knowledgeable members here. Frankly, you've not been any help at all to me in all that time.
Since you've been of no value to me throughout this entire project, if I never heard from you again, there would be no loss on my part at all. So, in the interest of respectful forum decorum, please feel free to never respond to another post I make. I will completely ignore you.