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My stock alternator took a dump after the glide conversion and is throwing a charge system error code. What alternator you guys using in the bigger builds. 1000whp etc. How many amp and from whom or am I best just getting a brand new genuine gm one?
Like my billet tech a lot and have no issues with it. Then again I had no issues with the stock one either. I just wanted more output at low rpm with the direct drive issues of possible belt slip.
If not for that would still be on the stock one. I don't think it's HP related. More about how much stuff your running.
Safer to have more and steadier output for fuel pumps.
Like my billet tech a lot and have no issues with it. Then again I had no issues with the stock one either. I just wanted more output at low rpm with the direct drive issues of possible belt slip.
If not for that would still be on the stock one. I don't think it's HP related. More about how much stuff your running.
Safer to have more and steadier output for fuel pumps.
Twin pumps, d3pe fans, auto tranny cooler fan, meth pump, trans brake switch. Was fine on stock alternator till we went glide so it is 10 year old anyways. If I'm spending 500, I'd rather upgrade than renew
170 or 230? From mechman? Have to check on Monday to make sure it's not the starter solenoid or horn fuse and check the voltage output but it might need an upgrade anyways.
+1 for billetech. I got the 240amp one which I believe puts out more at higher rpm than the 170 but I bet they're both more than enough for just about anything. I swear my car just runs a little better with it too vs. the stock one.
Last edited by neverstop; Feb 5, 2017 at 11:41 PM.
I just got a 240 amp one for mine from Bret, had a 170 and it worked perfectly no issues.....car definitely ran better with it and had rock steady voltage throughout the rpm range.
Last edited by LemansbluebyU; Feb 7, 2017 at 12:26 AM.
Yeah Brett is a good way to go.
Im running the 240 for about 10k miles now.
Still have issues at idle in summer traffic with the D3 fans.
I am told that the high output alts do not add much more power than oem at idle however I did see some improvement.
I would like to mention from my own experience:
The OEM cable fom alternator began to get hot and the insulation got soft. Connection was good.
Brett (blownblue) sells an upgrade lower gauge (thicker) cable that runs from alternator to the (jumper terminal) battery post on underhood fuse box. This cable is a must for someone running high amp accessories.