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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 10:57 AM
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Default LS7 - Boost Build

Need some advice on what I'm missing goal is about 650-700 rwhp, I want to make sure the short block is solid, only want to do this once.

- original block
- darton dry sleeves pressed in
- callies compstar h beams
- callies compstar crank
- weisco pistons with steel wristpins

do I need to worry about the new rotating assembly being heavier, piston slap, what am I missing?
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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 11:29 AM
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Have heard of a few people breaking compstar cranks. I'd about consider a stock GM one before one of those
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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Have heard of a few people breaking compstar cranks. I'd about consider a stock GM one before one of those
Really at 650-700rwhp range? I mean 1000hp+ I could see but my stock crank would need to be rebalanced and worked over, plus the rod bearing failure ate into it a bit.
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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 12:38 PM
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I just did drop in CP pistons (10:1) on my LS7 and had the rotating assembly balanced with stock crank/rods. I'm sitting at 750 whp on 91 + meth. If 650-700 is your goal, you should be fine with what you have planned and it may be a little excessive, if you don't plan to push it harder.
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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by silvrhand
Really at 650-700rwhp range? I mean 1000hp+ I could see but my stock crank would need to be rebalanced and worked over, plus the rod bearing failure ate into it a bit.
I'd hope it would be fine for that level

Last edited by schpenxel; Mar 27, 2017 at 12:53 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Patriot Six
I just did drop in CP pistons (10:1) on my LS7 and had the rotating assembly balanced with stock crank/rods. I'm sitting at 750 whp on 91 + meth. If 650-700 is your goal, you should be fine with what you have planned and it may be a little excessive, if you don't plan to push it harder.
Ok with a little excessive.. the wife eye rolling effect will be far less over time if I spend a little bit more now, than having to do it again..

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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 01:00 PM
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This is true. It will definitely be more stout and give you options later, if you can sneak more "oil changes" past the wife.
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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 01:24 PM
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Personally I would pay extra for a better crank/rods. Small difference now to never worry.

Need to decide on ring pack. Builder should be able to guide that.

Of course you have to worry about balancer/slap/clearances. Not sure what you are asking there.

ARP mains or stock? Would need to get the motor machined with the appropriate hardware.
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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Personally I would pay extra for a better crank/rods. Small difference now to never worry.

Need to decide on ring pack. Builder should be able to guide that.

Of course you have to worry about balancer/slap/clearances. Not sure what you are asking there.

ARP mains or stock? Would need to get the motor machined with the appropriate hardware.
LME is doing all of that for me, the main concern was upgrading the crank/connecting rods to their 1500hp build, seems excessive.

Now the question is really do I need to change the heads I had that were ported, new guides, dual springs, and stainless exhaust valves put in..
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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 07:36 PM
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If I did it over, I would have gone iron block. Or I should say when I do it over I will.

Last edited by GeneSch; Mar 28, 2017 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by GeneSch
If I did it over, I would have gone iron block. Or I should say when I do it over I will.
don't want to deal with the weight situation, and I should be find with the darton sleeves in the LS7, i'm not targeting 1000+ rwhp.
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 09:48 AM
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Darton sleeves will take 1000+ with ease.
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Old Nov 7, 2024 | 06:25 PM
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I know this is an old thread but just wondering what direction you went because I'm in need of a short block but my crank and rods are good....

Last edited by Eli-Z06; Nov 7, 2024 at 06:37 PM.
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