When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So im trying to install my ECS stage 1 E85 system with the A1000... I cant find any possible way to orient the pump and make the premade lines work. If anyone else has done it i would love to look at your setup!
Im also pretty sure ECS sent me the wrong AN fittings as the line that connects the pump outlet to the fuel block does not fit the A1000, im assuming the line is for the 380 pump. Honestly due to the size of the A1000 i think it could probably use a little longer lines than the 380 kit for sake of leaving enough space in the wheel well. Ill try a few more things before making final judgement on that though.
I can't help you with the E85/A1000 setup, but here's a couple of pics of the AEM380 version that I installed on my car the other day. What angle and size fittings do you have? Maybe you have the wrong lines, or one of them doesn't fit the pump?
If possible, post a picture of all of your parts so we can see what you've got. How far along have you gotten with the install? I'm curious to see if you run into the same problems I had with the hole saw being too small to cut the size hole needed for the ECS fuel bulkhead to mount properly. I'll post up a link to the write up I did on that.
Of the three O-ring line adapters in my kit 1 is 3/4" to 10an (which is correct) and 2 are 3/4" to 8an (which fit the standard stage 1, not the A1000 E85 stage 1)
The instructions on their website are awful. My lines are nowhere near the length claimed in their instructions (the longest line being 18" overall not 24+ like in the instructions). I also have a 180* to 90* line and the other line is 120* to 120*, which is not what is in the instruction pictures, but is what is in the store picture.
At this point I dont think that they will be usable with the A1000 pump, even removing the brake vent and having someone help hold the pump in different areas and try to route the lines they are not long enough and don't have the correct angles to connect to the fuel block and the tank.
Im going to try a few more combos in the morning to confirm that the lines wont work the way they are....Eitherway ill need new O-ring adapters for them.
Are those -8AN or -10AN hoses? They look like -8 to me? Or is one -8 and the other -10 (which is what I would have expected).
Based on what I see, you should be able to use them by screwing the -10 ORB into the one way check valve and connecting the 180* -8AN hose to the -10ANORB/-8AN flare nipple (the one you're holding in the last picture).
Unlike what is shown in the top picture, the 180* hose end is supposed to screw unto that nipple once you screw it into the check valve (you have it screwed on to the wrong end of the pump in the top picture).
In short, the hose with the 180* hose end and 90* hose end is the outlet hose, and the other one with the two 120* hose ends is the inlet/supply line coming from the tank to the inlet of the pump. That's how I've seen everyone's else do it and that's what I did with mine.
So, the pump should be able to be mounted in the approximate location as mine, with the inlet on the bottom, connected to the tank via the line with the two 120* -8AN (or is it -10?) hoses ends. The outlet with the check valve should be pounding upwards and the wire connectors will then be in the top of the pump.
Note: The line with the two 120* hoses ends is actually the line that runs from the bulkhead in the tank to the inlet/bottom of pump.
I agree that their instructions need to be updated. In fact, last time I checked, they don't have any instructions at all for the E85/Stage 1 system, which they've just started offering in recent times.
I hope that this helps and doesn't confuse you further. I was also confused until I started assembling everything, then I realized what went where.
You need to start with installing the fuel block in the tank first and then connect the inlet hose to the tank to get the pump positioned properly. You want the inlet elbow (120* hose end) to be as low as possible without it sticking down below the chassis.
That rule block is going to be the fun part, especially of you have the bastard-sized hole saw like I did, which from the pictures appears to be the case.
Good luck and I hope that it goes well.
I think that you have all the right parts, but without any instructions it is a bit of a PITA to figure out what goes where exactly.
I appreciate your help!
The hole saw was the correct size for me. My bulkhead fitting is installed in the tank already.
Both lines are 10an.
I noticed that that I had the 180* line on the wrong side. My biggest problem now is I can't actually connect the lines because those ORB fittings are the wrong size. The one on the inlet of the pump fits the pump and the line connecting to the bulkhead. The ORB fitting from the check valve to the 180* line is too small. The ORB fitting that goes from the 90* line to the fuel block T is also too small. Those two fittings must be for the regular 380 pump.
I appreciate your help!
The hole saw was the correct size for me. My bulkhead fitting is installed in the tank already.
Both lines are 10an.
I noticed that that I had the 180* line on the wrong side. My biggest problem now is I can't actually connect the lines because those ORB fittings are the wrong size. The one on the inlet of the pump fits the pump and the line connecting to the bulkhead. The ORB fitting from the check valve to the 180* line is too small. The ORB fitting that goes from the 90* line to the fuel block T is also too small. Those two fittings must be for the regular 380 pump.
No worries. I'm glad that the holesaw size worked for you. I have no idea wtf was up with mine, but I took measurements with a digital caliper and posted the pictures.
Sucks that they sent you the wrong size fittings. But I'm sure that if you contact Doug on here, he will sort you out. He is very good with customer service. Some of the others, not so much so.
I'm still scratching my head as to why they prefer to tee a -10AN line into the factory 3/8" fuel line at the tank, rather than running the fuel supply line all the way forward and teeing into the rail at the test port? That would seem to be a fail safe way to do it, since that pump by itself can probably supply enough fuel for just about any E85 setup.
BTW: please post pictures of your install. Better yet, do a full DIY thread, with pictures, because clearly anyone that buys this kit will need some sort of instructions, since they're not bothered to do that when they sell you the kit.
Okay I have the lines fixed and the pump mounted now. They look like they are going to work while barely clearing the inner fender. I next day aired some 10ORB fittings and then I'll take some more pics to share with yall
I was just looking at their kit too. Wonder how different the A&A kit is as far as pumps/quality/lines. Hopefully ECS will chime in and may eliminate some of the issues your having with their kit. I wanted to do a FORE system but don't want to drop the tank and mess with the fuel system already inplace etc when these types of fuel systems will do what I need for less cost/work.
The biggest advantage the ECS kit has over A&A's is that it has the bulkhead fitting for the tank and I like the fact it employs the factory regulator and keeps the engine bay cleaner. Schpenxels fuel system is basically a budget A&A I believe, check his thread out.
Yeah mine is a bit of a mix. I didn't use the ECS bulkhead (though they are nice pieces). I added two fittings to the tank, one for secondary pump that comes on in boost and the other is for a return line
Y'd together the factory pump and secondary pump w/check valve, filter, etc. Ran new -8 line to regulator, regulator to fuel rail. Bypass on regulator connects to the original factory feed line in the engine bay then it's connected to one of the fittings on the tank in the back
Using DW350il secondary pump and Z06 in tank pump
I haven't had any fuel pressure issues, not sure how much rwph but ran 163 in the 1/2 mile and I'm on E85 and it's holding pressure fine
I didn't like the idea of just overrunning the factory regulator so that's why I decided to add one. I set it so a little bit of fuel goes through the return line basically all the time, then put a flex fuel sensor in the return line. Works fine like that.
Had both systems. I like how the A&A runs a separate line and join at the front. I kept the ECS bulkhead which is a great piece and I trust it more than individual fittings, although both obviously work.
Never had issues with the ECS system and it does a goodnjob doing what it is supposed to do.
My thoughts were that if the stock line will supply enough for my needs (700whp on E is the goal for now) I would rather not add anything that isnt necessary. Sort of a keep it simple logic. We'll see how it goes when i get to the tuning lol.
Update for me though, seems how i cant finish installing the lines until i get my 10ORB fittings i went ahead and ran the wiring back from the alternator and then installed my DSX flex fuel sensor and pinned the ECU. All in all not a bad job to do if you have a lift, I can see where getting to the ECU inside the fender would prove more difficult if you were on your back on the ground.
I also decided to paint my rear diffuser and tint the reverse lights seems how the rear inner fenders were out already and i had nothing better to do :|
Here's a little safety tip, something simple that you can do before you put the inner fender back in. Look at the picture below of my finished install. Notice that I've covered the sharp edge of the seam on the chassis with a piece of 3/8" fuel hose, so as to protect the wires from rubbing and chafing on the sharp metal edge of the seam.
This picture also show the difference in size between the A1000 and the AEM380.
BTW: it occurs to me that, based on the data I'm looking at on the 380, that should pump enough fuel for just about any application, even a ~850whp E85 setup, provided it's supplied by a -10AN line and you run a dedicated -8AN line all the way forward.
Just saying that an A1000 is a great pump, but seems to be huge overkill to use as an secondary/standby pump. I've run one of those on my boat since like 2002, and it was sufficient for ~1100+hp on a blow-through carb setup. And you can't kill those things. Up until this morning, that damn thing was running like a charm, sitting in the bilge of my boat where it's been for 15 years now.
I will do that! My goal is simplicity and reliability.
I want to do the work one time and enjoy years of supercharged powa! That is really why i decided to do the E85 over a meth setup, I just dont want to maintenance the pump every 2 years!
I think your probably right about the pump. Hopefully its as reliable as yours has been.
I've installed a factory C5 fuel filter/reg on the DW350 external assemblies I've done using the ECS bulkheads on the C5's and C6's. No issues yet on any of them.
Finished up the install. Overall not as bad as I first thought. Inner fender needed slight modification and the brake cooling duct is not usable. I trimmed it in a little less than half so that it would still deflect debris away from the lower rocker panel a little. It also provides a slight bit of protection to the pump from the wheel well.
I ended up having one of the ORB fittings that
I had to special order start leaking. So overall that was a nightmare but I got it swapped out again and everything looks great.
Anybody installed an AFR500 02 sensor and gauge in there C6? Tips and tricks on where to enter the cab or mount the gauge?
06-23-2017, 09:28 PM
A1000 Users share install pics
