V3NOM

What's a good heat exchanger I'm running the edelbrock e-force supercharger and I got it tuned Wednesday afternoon and my tuner recommended me a better heat exchanger cuz the SC was running to hot @ 140 and it's suppose to be at 120

CI GS

Based on my research on here and other forums, Edelbrock makes one of the best Heat Exchangers for C6 PD blowers. To upgrade from that you would need an expensive aftermarket unit and/or use an expansion tank with ice.
What kind of boost are you running? What kind of outside air temps did you run it at? Was it tuned on the dyno or on the street? Was it just peaking at 140* at the end of the run or was it heat soaking and staying at around 140*?
I don't know who your tuner is, but I don't agree that 140 is "too hot". I would say that it's quite typical, actually, if we're talking about the inlet air temperature ("IAT"), not the temperature of the supercharger. It all depends on how and under what conditions you're seeing that IAT. If that's the IAT at the end of a dyno run, and you're running 7+ psi in 85+* outside temperatures, then I would say that your tuner is mistaken if he thinks you can drop 20* by just changing the HX. If that's possible, I want one of those myself!
Of course, you could always put a methanol/water kit on it and that would drop your temps a lot, but unless you figure out a way to spray meth directly on the IAT sensor, it might still not drop down that much, because on a PD blower, with the typical setup the meth/water mixture still has to go through the rotors, plenum etc., before it gets to the intake ports. The added octane from the methanol would keep the engine from knocking and would allow more timing to be used though.

V3NOM

Thanks man info make sense and heard the same about the HX on edelbrock there one of the best, the 140 was staying and wasn't dropping, at first it was at 150-160 but he read some info on edelbrock website and got it to drop to 140 and made xtra 20+ Hp and tq and the vette was tuned on the dyno. He did mention on top of the RPM's it was pulling timing so he didn't push the car too much. I'm at 6psi right now and it was around 85-90 degrees or so when it got tuned

CI GS

There may be some other things you could do, like upgrade the HX pump and/or add an expansion tank.
I'm running the Magnuson Heartbeat and I was seeing ~138* at the top of 4th gear @ ~ 12psi, with the stock HX system, and by just adding a Moroso expansion tank in the battery box (after relocation the battery to the right rear cubby) I managed to get the temps to drop by about 12*.
I have a stock ZL1 pump that I'm going to use to upgrade the standard Bosch one, to see if that makes a difference as well.
See data logs below: top one was in May and the other in December. That doesn't make much of a difference down here though (both days actually had almost identical weather:~86* outside temp):

CI GS

Here's what the expansion tank looks like installed. I got the idea from realcanuk, who I believe has pushed the E-force harder than anyone. Hopefully, he'll chime in.

Chiselchst

CI GS knows his stuff...
What was the ambient temp when you saw 140*F?

Are you monitoring IAT's with a Dashlogic while driving? Mine - when moving >40 MPH - are always ~12-15*F above ambient. Then of course they go up after a hit. I'm running ~8/8.4 lbs boost, and mine typically don't go up by more than 10*F after a pulling thru a couple of gears.

My car definitely loves cooler weather. When my IAT's are <100*F it runs noticeably better...

Personally mine doesn't see 140*F unless it's parked hot, then re-started after 20+ minutes of sitting. But it quickly drops back down after it's re-started. Hence, I'm under 100*F IAT's 85% of the time.

V3NOM

That looks nice I like that...I just want to drop temps cuz I do want to pulley down later on. I'm looking which HX are better then what I have to help with this heat on the SC. My buddy was telling me to get a icebox but I don't know

V3NOM

You running the E force as well? I'm gonna see if the new HX,Flex Fuel and maybe a meth kit will help enough . I just don't know which HX to look at

CI GS

This tank has a capacity of about 1.5 gallons, and I'm only running about a gallon of a distilled water/water wetter mix (I don't need antifreeze here, because it never glues below 70*). This can also be used as an ice box, albeit not one of the huge ~5 gallon ones that the big HP guys mount in their trunk for 1-1.5 mile runs, etc. The whole ice box thing isn't practical for street driving though, because the ice would soon melt and it dilutes/pollutes the coolant mixture, requiring you to constantly drain and refill the tank with ice. What I intend to do, if/when I run the car in competition, is use a couple of those frozen gel packs to keep the temperature of the coolant down. That way, I can have an ice chest handy with a few more gel pack "refills" and just change out the gel packs when necessary, so that I don't have to keep draining and refilling the tank. So far that hasn't been necessary for street driving. By insulating the tank and venting the engine compartment, I've been able to keep water temps in that little tank at just about ambient, even on long drives. I took the pictures below after a long drive on a ~95* day, after the car had been sitting in the garage for about 5-10 minutes. You can see that the coolant is much cooler than the surface of the blower lid, mainly because the blower had started to heat soak. With the car running, the surface of the blower lid drops down to a temperature where I can comfortably rest my hand on it. I haven't done anything else to my HX system yet except add coolant capacity, but I was still able to drop the coolant temps down significantly.
BTW: are you sure it's the HX itself that's the problem, or is it that you're not getting coolant circulated fast enough through the charge air coolers? Remember, like everything else, it's a system which works based on the sum of all parts, so if your pump is weak, or for whatever reason, you're not getting good flow through the CACs, then it won't matter what kind of HX you put up front, it won't make much difference.

Chiselchst

No - running the Magnuson Heartbeat, same as CI GS. As I understand it, the HB has better IC bricks (CAC's). BUt the E-Force the better Hx.

chuntington101

Best HX system for the C6? The TIKT dual setup!

If you fancied something custom could look to mount a couple of HEs on the rear as well.

V3NOM

Thanks for the info man...but when I got the car tuned the flow was good and everything it was circulating properly, but it was running alittle hot that's why he required me to get a better heat exchanger to keep temps down. It was pulling timing on high RPM's like 2 degrees when he showed me if that makes sense

CI GS

Yes, that makes sense. Most tunes, including the stock one from GM, will set up IAT spark tables so that timing is pulled at anything above 140*, to avert knock.
I have no doubt that your HX system is circulating properly, but that doesn't mean that, like everything else, it can't be improved upon. The advantage of an expansion tank is the added coolant capacity - as well as the ability to add ice - and it has been pretty much proven that there are better HX pumps out there than the standard Bosch pumps. The point I'm making is that it might not be the HX alone that's the problem. Do a bit of research on here and other forums before you buy one, because the aftermarket ones are pretty expensive.

V3NOM

Yup that's the plan man just trying to find info on what's my best bet to keep temps down some people have told me about the icebox and a meth kit but idk yet. I will be doing the flex fuel for sure that be the next mod to do but like u said I don't want to buy another HX and it does the same thing lol so I'll do more research hope I find the problem so many options just hard to decide unless I find a badass HX that for sure it will solve the problem then I'll buy that lol