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My build for 2018

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Old 05-01-2018, 04:24 PM
  #121  
gameover4
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i chased power steering leaks with the AA hose for what seemed an eternity. Tighten the ever living **** of it. tighten fittings individually. dont assemble and just tighten the two end fittings
Old 05-01-2018, 04:47 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by gameover4
i chased power steering leaks with the AA hose for what seemed an eternity. Tighten the ever living **** of it. tighten fittings individually. dont assemble and just tighten the two end fittings
Did you use any thread sealant or teflon tape on factory threads (side of the fittings that go into the pump and steering gear)? I just cranked on the lower hose connection a bit and got 1/8" of a turn on it so I'm hopeful that'll be enough. I still don't like how the hose is touching the steering gear. I'd pay $200 for a better fitting hose that uses factory style ends. Instead of 2 places to leak, we have 4.
Old 05-04-2018, 02:37 PM
  #123  
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I was able to resolve my power steering leak by tightening the fitting in the steering gear. I used just about every wrench in my toolbox to do it. Like gameover, I just tightened the @#$@# out of it.

I took the car for it's first drive for a few miles. The Mantic triple drives like a dream! Smooth engagement from a stop. The engine is still basically untuned but Fuel Trims are only about +6% and the engine behaves pretty well considering how much changed.

My hot oil pressure is lower than I expected. It's a few PSI below my stock engine. I have an email in to HPR to get their opinion. I've gotten the engine warm twice now, so I think it's time to re-torque the head studs.

I have an appointment for a week from Monday to have CBI Streetcars install a Fore fuel system. I'm doing triple pump with rails in series and using FlexLP hoses.
Old 05-05-2018, 12:47 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Tech
I got a few more odds and ends completed. I mounted the flywheel so I could hold the engine while I applied the final torque the balancer bolt. 130 ft lbs seems like so little torque for the balancer bolt, even with red loctite.

Ultimately I ran out of steam this weekend when I realized I should have removed the bell housing with the engine. My new clutch comes with a slave and I can't replace the current slave with the bell housing still installed. And, of course, I can't remove the bell housing easily because the x-pipe and tunnel plate are still installed. The way the car was lifted/supported, it was difficult to even get under the car to remove those pieces. I got frustrated rolling around on my back and quit for the day.

More updates will come later this week but I absolutely despise working on exhaust under a car on jackstands. I see a 2-post lift in my not-so-distant future.
Killer build! Might want to double check the torque on your balancer I just did mine and torqued it to 240ft lbs
Old 05-07-2018, 10:22 AM
  #125  
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Things were going too smoothly. After re-torquing the head studs on the driver's side...
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:32 AM
  #126  
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Things like that is why my 2 month build turned into 5, can you drill and tap for a threaded insert? Is that one of the smaller bolts under the intake?
Old 05-07-2018, 10:32 AM
  #127  
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Ouch. That is no good.
Old 05-07-2018, 10:40 AM
  #128  
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I don't think it'll be much of a problem to fix. If it were on any other rocker, it would be much easier though. This is the driver's side rear-most rocker. I'm debating pulling the head and having inserts installed in all of them versus just fixing this one with the head in the car. I've known better for years.. but I've gotten away with just torquing these suckers to 22 ft lbs, turning the motor over and re-torquing. I think I'll be using the base-circle method from the FSM moving forward.
Old 05-07-2018, 10:43 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by g23crawler
Things like that is why my 2 month build turned into 5, can you drill and tap for a threaded insert? Is that one of the smaller bolts under the intake?
Yeah.. a threaded insert will fix it. I have an email into HPR asking which they prefer. It's a rocker bolt. Fortunately, the Trickflow heads use a rocker stand like LS1 heads. I wonder if anyone makes a jig for LS3 heads for drilling rocker bolt holes.
Old 05-07-2018, 10:50 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Tech
Yeah.. a threaded insert will fix it. I have an email into HPR asking which they prefer. It's a rocker bolt. Fortunately, the Trickflow heads use a rocker stand like LS1 heads. I wonder if anyone makes a jig for LS3 heads for drilling rocker bolt holes.
Isn't the rocker stand threaded for each rocker and then uses like 3 bolts to secure it to the head? Could just buy a new rocker stand for that side.
Old 05-07-2018, 10:52 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by g23crawler
Isn't the rocker stand threaded for each rocker and then uses like 3 bolts to secure it to the head? Could just buy a new rocker stand for that side.
Unfortunately not. The stands are just like LS1s. The rocker bolts go through the stand.
Old 05-07-2018, 10:55 AM
  #132  
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Time sert it and it’ll be better than new
Old 05-07-2018, 10:56 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Tech
Unfortunately not. The stands are just like LS1s. The rocker bolts go through the stand.
Damn, would removing the cowl give you enough clearance to drill and tap it?

I feel your pain, I need to swap out my push rods for my hardened ones but have a stripped rocker bolt head.
Old 05-07-2018, 10:57 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by g23crawler
Damn, would removing the cowl give you enough clearance to drill and tap it?

I feel your pain, I need to swap out my push rods for my hardened ones but have a stripped rocker bolt head.
Remains to be seen. I'm hoping a right angle drill and a relatively short drill bit will get the job done.
Old 05-07-2018, 11:10 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Time sert it and it’ll be better than new
Definitely, this.
Old 05-07-2018, 11:18 AM
  #136  
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I think the hose AA uses on this is crap. I understand it cheap and easy versus a hard line but when i feel like wrenching again i will bend a hard line so that it fits well. Just a matter time the hose rubs steering and breaks it.
Originally Posted by Tech
I was able to resolve my power steering leak by tightening the fitting in the steering gear. I used just about every wrench in my toolbox to do it. Like gameover, I just tightened the @#$@# out of it.

I took the car for it's first drive for a few miles. The Mantic triple drives like a dream! Smooth engagement from a stop. The engine is still basically untuned but Fuel Trims are only about +6% and the engine behaves pretty well considering how much changed.

My hot oil pressure is lower than I expected. It's a few PSI below my stock engine. I have an email in to HPR to get their opinion. I've gotten the engine warm twice now, so I think it's time to re-torque the head studs.

I have an appointment for a week from Monday to have CBI Streetcars install a Fore fuel system. I'm doing triple pump with rails in series and using FlexLP hoses.
Old 05-07-2018, 06:49 PM
  #137  
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Going the E-Z Lok route. CBI and BTR both use them.

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Old 05-11-2018, 09:48 PM
  #138  
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Got an EZ Lok installed and it held torque fine. I pulled the other side's rockers off, while the lifter on base circle for _every_ rocker. I retorqued that head and reinstalled the rockers, again on base circle, and another thread pulled at around 20 ft lbs.

Meanwhile, TrickFlow still hasn't replied to my email from several days ago.
Old 05-13-2018, 10:40 PM
  #139  
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Got the second hole repaired and everything buttoned back up. Engine started and sounded ok. Valvetrain may have been a bit more noisey but my mind could be playing tricks on me. Just to be sure, I left the car to cool and I’ll go back over the valvetrain before running it again.

I was thinking shaft rockers may help me sleep better at night. Anybody have any wisdom to impart on shaft 1.8 rockers? Jesel, Crower, T&D and Comp all look like they may have something that’ll work around $1500.

Last edited by Tech; 05-13-2018 at 10:41 PM.
Old 05-14-2018, 08:32 AM
  #140  
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The problem is pulling the heads to machine for them, unless your heads are using a rail setup already.

Prices are all over depending on which ones. From what I've seen, some are far more race oriented (super light weight, etc) and others a bit more street friendly. Almost all the people I've talked too, and shops I've talk to use crowers for street setups, unless you want to spend $4-6k on the high end jesels.


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