My build for 2018
#141
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The problem is pulling the heads to machine for them, unless your heads are using a rail setup already.
Prices are all over depending on which ones. From what I've seen, some are far more race oriented (super light weight, etc) and others a bit more street friendly. Almost all the people I've talked too, and shops I've talk to use crowers for street setups, unless you want to spend $4-6k on the high end jesels.
Prices are all over depending on which ones. From what I've seen, some are far more race oriented (super light weight, etc) and others a bit more street friendly. Almost all the people I've talked too, and shops I've talk to use crowers for street setups, unless you want to spend $4-6k on the high end jesels.
#142
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Also.. something to consider for other people trying to decide on which threaded insert to use.
The EZ Loks seem to be working ok but here are a couple of things I didn't notice immediately... First, the hole you make in the head is the largest for EZ Loks (same thing BTR sells). So if you screw it up, you can't swap to another threaded insert. EZ Loks don't really lock into the head, unless you are able to perfectly machine the correct depth of the threads. EZ Loks doesn't tell you that depth. If you want to test fit as you make threads, you'll end up removing all of the thread locker on the EZ Lok, so make sure you have red Loctite on hand (or multiple EZ Loks).
Both a Time-sert and Helicoil would allow you two chances to get it right, sorta. The Time-sert and Helicoil can both be replaced with a Big-sert. The Time-sert requires you to counter bore so the insert has a lip to sit on. That's was really tough to do in my case, since my rocker pedestals were already countersunk.
The EZ Loks seem to be working ok but here are a couple of things I didn't notice immediately... First, the hole you make in the head is the largest for EZ Loks (same thing BTR sells). So if you screw it up, you can't swap to another threaded insert. EZ Loks don't really lock into the head, unless you are able to perfectly machine the correct depth of the threads. EZ Loks doesn't tell you that depth. If you want to test fit as you make threads, you'll end up removing all of the thread locker on the EZ Lok, so make sure you have red Loctite on hand (or multiple EZ Loks).
Both a Time-sert and Helicoil would allow you two chances to get it right, sorta. The Time-sert and Helicoil can both be replaced with a Big-sert. The Time-sert requires you to counter bore so the insert has a lip to sit on. That's was really tough to do in my case, since my rocker pedestals were already countersunk.
Last edited by Tech; 05-14-2018 at 09:09 AM.
#143
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#146
Team Owner
My timesert kit came with the drill/tool that does the counter sink/etc all in one operation.
#147
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Seems like most of them do except for the rockers in the 3.1/3.4 V6 GM engines. Two of the rocker bolt holes are countersunk in TFS 260/ so the rocker pedestal dowel (like the GM head dowel) can align and hold the pedestal in place. I’m not sure if the Time-sert countersink bit is bigger or smaller than the TFS countersink for the dowel.
#150
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The power steering leak came back. A&A sent me a new fitting. When removing the old fitting, I found a torn o-ring so I had high hopes the new fitting would solve the problem. I torqued the fitting carefully to 20ft lbs (same as stock line) and put everything back together. Unfortunately, I still have a power steering leak. I'm not sure if the leak is coming from the same place yet. I got pretty irritated and parked the car for a bit.
#153
Safety Car
Thread Starter
To be fair to A&A.. the hose looks the same as the other similar kits. Maybe some debris exists in my steering gear that is tearing o-rings. I did verify it's the same fitting leaking.
#155
Team Owner
That is one thing I really liked about the Dallas Performance kit. Everything was top notch, super high quality. They really went above and beyond. The PS hose is a very nice piece and I've had zero issues with it in 8+ years. It is sad they stopped making theirs, as it was a top notch kit.
#158
Safety Car
Thread Starter
After 4 attempts, I think my power steering line isn't leaking.
1st attempt involved re-tightening the fittings
2nd attempt involved removing the steering box fitting and finding a torn o-ring. Replaced o-ring with aftermarket from A&A
3rd attempt involved removing the fitting again and found the o-ring was intact but did have a depression in it. Found and removed debris that was much like hardened loctite. It was hard but brittle and the chunks did seem round. The source of the substance was a mystery. Replaced with o-ring from factory line
4th attempt removed the fitting again. Did not find damaged o-ring or debris. Replaced with the aftermarket o-ring that was removed from 3rd attempt. I suspect the stock o-ring is dimensionally different but only by a very small amount. Torqued the fitting to 40 ft/lbs instead of the factory 25-27 ft lbs (can't remember which the manual calls for).
While I stand by some of the criticisms I've made about this hose, I think the leaking was entirely my fault. I'm not sure where the debris came from but I should have done a better job figuring out why the first o-ring was torn. That would have saved me some additional headache.
1st attempt involved re-tightening the fittings
2nd attempt involved removing the steering box fitting and finding a torn o-ring. Replaced o-ring with aftermarket from A&A
3rd attempt involved removing the fitting again and found the o-ring was intact but did have a depression in it. Found and removed debris that was much like hardened loctite. It was hard but brittle and the chunks did seem round. The source of the substance was a mystery. Replaced with o-ring from factory line
4th attempt removed the fitting again. Did not find damaged o-ring or debris. Replaced with the aftermarket o-ring that was removed from 3rd attempt. I suspect the stock o-ring is dimensionally different but only by a very small amount. Torqued the fitting to 40 ft/lbs instead of the factory 25-27 ft lbs (can't remember which the manual calls for).
While I stand by some of the criticisms I've made about this hose, I think the leaking was entirely my fault. I'm not sure where the debris came from but I should have done a better job figuring out why the first o-ring was torn. That would have saved me some additional headache.