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Well couple new things. Currently in the process of pulling the motor. Someone local was kind enough to give me a old monster 6 puck they had laying around. Figure might as well give it a shot since it is relative low effort to pull the motor and swap them out. This way i will also have the mantic out and ready to go back for a rebuild.
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My dad also decided to buy a tow truck for our corvettes should we decide to bring one to ls fest east or street car take overs ect. Some GM junk to tow our GM junk. I will say they did a decent job hiding the GM. I got to test drive it vs the Lexus LX570 back to back as the dealer had both. It was neat given both MSRPs new were 95-100 ish in the same class. Its amazing how two competitor cars can be made to serve the same purpose at the same price point but be so so different from material feel to how it drives.
Badass caddy. Why are you pulling the motor to do the clutch though? Have you found it is easier than dropping the torque tube? haha
Yeah its neat every option down to the little fridge in the glove box you really cant beat them for what they sell for certified pre owned especially if you get the platinum which reguardless of its 20k markup new seems to sell for the same price used.
I have done it both ways now on the same car. I think pulling the motor is much easier. Especially in your garage. I am pretty confident after looking at things last night that i will be able to pull the entire motor out as one unit with the entire turbo hotside ect all still attached. So basically remove all the wiring, intake manifold, motor mount bolts, radiator, steering rack, and torque tube bolts and she should be ready to pull. Easier said then done but id say maybe 4 hours of actual work per direction?
Yeah its neat every option down to the little fridge in the glove box you really cant beat them for what they sell for certified pre owned especially if you get the platinum which reguardless of its 20k markup new seems to sell for the same price used.
I have done it both ways now on the same car. I think pulling the motor is much easier. Especially in your garage. I am pretty confident after looking at things last night that i will be able to pull the entire motor out as one unit with the entire turbo hotside ect all still attached. So basically remove all the wiring, intake manifold, motor mount bolts, radiator, steering rack, and torque tube bolts and she should be ready to pull. Easier said then done but id say maybe 4 hours of actual work per direction?
I'll keep that in mind when its time to do a clutch on mine lol.
Pulled the motor tonight and found that the fly wheel bolts were clipping the springs in the clutch disks. I think this could have easily been the cause of the slipping and vibration that would come from the driveline when it would slip also why on the dyno it would catch its self after a slip or pull after pull unlike a normal slipping clutch.
Measured the disks and they are around 50% so i had my buddy turn down the set of fly wheel bolts like monster does with their twin disks and ill be slapping it back together tomorrow after work with the mantic instead of the free 6 puck i got. Hopefully my guess here is correct and it holds a bit more next time .
Well after waiting a long time for the clutch to arrive and then needing to find a reason/time to get the car together I found it. Looks like our goal is to get the car together in time for LS fest and do the stick shift class.
Clutch is in/motor is in just alot of buttoning up.
Also decided to go with a new intake manifold my friend was kind enough to bring by. Some light googling found that at lower power levels then we have already made guys were seeing 50-75whp gains with this manifold over a ls6 which should flow better then the ls2 we already had on the car.
So if anyone needs a ls2 intake manifold, with injector spacers, and a fuel rail lmk ill let it go for a good deal.
Just noticed TB angle tilted upwards...not necessarily a challenge to correct, but unfortunate that its tilting in the less desirable direction.
It is some kind of gen 4 4 bolt truck intake. For the entire manifold/fuel rail/injector spacers I expect to have less then $100 into it. If I end up saving time by buying aftermarket rails it will go up a little.
Lucky for me no hood means easy to correct that haha.
I dont think i ever posted this. But i got it to around here then broke it very quickly at the track. I think my fuel pump hanger split at the top like the GM recall ....rip. It has a bit more left in it but i left it turned down a little so i "wouldnt" break it. Next time im pinning the gate shut.
Last edited by Shortpersonbk; 11-04-2019 at 05:37 PM.
Got a gen 4 4.8L from the junkyard. Plans are to swap the btr springs from this motor and toss in a summit stg 3 cam deck the heads ls9 head gaskets ect.
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Currently also exploring running the Holley terminator ecu in somekind of parallel setup with the stock ecu. Not sure how far i want to go rather it just make the bcm happy to keep the doors working or have a full working dash which has been done before.
This go around we will be cleaning some stuff up also hopefully make the engine bay cleaner and i fully intend on capping the gate shut to see how much power the car can make.
*edit ...got a message from the guy who in the past has tuned most of my cars and he suggested i go motec. I am alot more skeptical about this possibility but since hes a dealer I told him to tell me the cost of the unit I will need. Its looking more and more that my car will not run this year in the name of doing things i shouldnt do for fun lol.
Last edited by Shortpersonbk; 12-29-2019 at 11:46 PM.
I am thinking i had a fueling issue. I think the top of the feed line cracked like the GM recall. But i wont know till i pull the tank soon.
Still wishy washy on the whole standalone thing. Some people are telling me to try it others say to just getting the car working correctly. Flip a coin i guess.
Shopping lists are growing.
Going to a nicer catch can setup and switching one of my aem 320s for a wally 525 i think a 320 on primary and a 525 on a switch should be good for around 1k on e.
This time around i am capping that gate shut thats for sure.
Got a gen 4 4.8L from the junkyard. Plans are to swap the btr springs from this motor and toss in a summit stg 3 cam deck the heads ls9 head gaskets ect.
--
Currently also exploring running the Holley terminator ecu in somekind of parallel setup with the stock ecu. Not sure how far i want to go rather it just make the bcm happy to keep the doors working or have a full working dash which has been done before.
This go around we will be cleaning some stuff up also hopefully make the engine bay cleaner and i fully intend on capping the gate shut to see how much power the car can make.
*edit ...got a message from the guy who in the past has tuned most of my cars and he suggested i go motec. I am alot more skeptical about this possibility but since hes a dealer I told him to tell me the cost of the unit I will need. Its looking more and more that my car will not run this year in the name of doing things i shouldnt do for fun lol.
Who suggests Motec for a junkyard engine car? Certainly has its place but its generally on engines people car a lot more about. The cheaper Holley offerings are designed more for the junkyard guys at a substantially cheaper price.
I am thinking i had a fueling issue. I think the top of the feed line cracked like the GM recall. But i wont know till i pull the tank soon.
Still wishy washy on the whole standalone thing. Some people are telling me to try it others say to just getting the car working correctly. Flip a coin i guess.
Shopping lists are growing.
Going to a nicer catch can setup and switching one of my aem 320s for a wally 525 i think a 320 on primary and a 525 on a switch should be good for around 1k on e.
This time around i am capping that gate shut thats for sure.
06-24-2019, 10:18 PM
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