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Yes but it will be aftermarket rails with a larger feed from
the tank most likely. It will be on a very small shot 100 max.
This is is where I wish the trunk was separate from the cabin so I could do a surge tank with a couple pumps in it or a large external coming off the tank like I had on my STI. I hate the idea of all these little pumps on switches basically.
Originally I wanted a cheap ls1 intake manifold. But it turns out they are not that cheap. For only $200-300 more by the time i buy the intake and some rails I could purchase a holly sniper or BTR intake manifold which will be alot nicer.
Where are you looking? Should be able to pick up a used one for around $150, you'll have to cut the cowl with a sniper. Id love to see a new btr intake on one of these cars. Or if you dont care about the hood, do a high ram.
I also just did a ls6 intake swap on my buddies 99 c5, he may be willing to sell the intake. I think its a 3 bolt tb though.
You guys both have a good point on the cheap takes offs I was having bad luck finding any good ones but after speaking to a friend he made a good point. I will have a truck one laying around and i already have to cut up the car a little bit. Might as well use the free manifold and scream high ram mafia....just a really poverty version of course.
Also tracked down a used comp cam today that fits the bill.
Hopefully this or next weekend I will buy a case of beer and attempt to put together this 5.3 I have in the garage.
I've pretty much made up my mind. I think a turbo car would be much more fun to drive than a N/A car. You don't have to rev it out as far to get some speed out of it.
I've pretty much made up my mind. I think a turbo car would be much more fun to drive than a N/A car. You don't have to rev it out as far to get some speed out of it.
Yeah i I have always enjoyed driving turbo cars a lot more then my na h/c c6s. The way I’m doing it cheap and dirty it won’t be as daily friendly but you can easily do so with some effort.
The biggest thing I like with this stuff is with a turbo setup you can get away with a lot cheaper of motors. I think all in gaskets oil pan heads ect from scratch I will have around a grand into my longblock.
When it breaks I just will need another couple hundred dollar block and send it again.
Yeah i I have always enjoyed driving turbo cars a lot more then my na h/c c6s. The way I’m doing it cheap and dirty it won’t be as daily friendly but you can easily do so with some effort.
The biggest thing I like with this stuff is with a turbo setup you can get away with a lot cheaper of motors. I think all in gaskets oil pan heads ect from scratch I will have around a grand into my longblock.
When it breaks I just will need another couple hundred dollar block and send it again.
Yeah man. I'm going to stay tuned for this one. Grab some pointers!
Well some parts came in the mail so I got some work done this weekend.
Some other things also got ordered. LS2 intake manifold from a member on here. Also got some bosch 210lb injectors and some random odds and ends like a turbo drain line setup new front timing cover ect.
Found out I cannot use the factory ECU as the injectors will be too big so I will be purchasing the DSX tuning upgraded ECM soon.
Well finally got most of everything I need to put the motor into the car.
First up will be measuring for the pushrod length tonight after i pick some rockers up from a buddy.
Goal is to be able to put the motor back into the car tomorrow/sunday but we will see what really ends up happening.
I am back on the debate train of rather i rip my nitrous stuff out or not. Part of me feels like it will end up being pointless and turbine limited anyways other part says send it.
Last edited by Shortpersonbk; 12-14-2018 at 09:52 AM.
Well finally got most of everything I need to put the motor into the car.
First up will be measuring for the pushrod length tonight after i pick some rockers up from a buddy.
Goal is to be able to put the motor back into the car tomorrow/sunday but we will see what really ends up happening.
KEEP IT!!! And run one of these: (It's sweet because you can run the spray to help you spool, and then shut it off at a certain boost level. I ran mine until 12 psi when my turbo's started really spooling, then the main kit shut off and transitioned to a dry shot across the intercooler.) http://www.zex.com/zx/boost-activated-switchhtml/
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 12-14-2018 at 10:57 AM.
KEEP IT!!! And run one of these: (It's sweet because you can run the spray to help you spool, and then shut it off at a certain boost level. I ran mine until 12 psi when my turbo's started really spooling, then the main kit shut off and transitioned to a dry shot across the intercooler.) http://www.zex.com/zx/boost-activated-switchhtml/
That is a option much cheaper then the controllers I have seen that say NX sells.
Maybe ill leave it wired up and keep that switch in mind and see how the car spools first.
How big is the turbo on your car?
Some updates. First up is new lighting in the garage...went from 3 basic light blubs in the garage + the 4 in the garage door openers to this. Hurts a little to look up but no more shadows i something like 10x the amount of lumens in the garage which was not bad for a pnp solution that cost $120.
Got some more work done on the motor. Fitting is welded to the pan for the turbo oil drain front cover is on and new crank pulley is on.
Started to check for pushrod length and ran into some really annoying issues doing that. These comp bar link short travel lifters are a pain to measure vs oem ls7s or the full travel morals i have used in the past. These require a near 0 lash cold which gives you little margin for error vs the .05-.1 that people suggest for the ls7s. Then on top of that with no lifter trays it is more difficult to get the push rod checker to sit on the right spot on the lifter and if your not paying attention you can actually drop the push rod checker into the motor and need to use a magnet to fish it out lol.
Either way i have a educated guess on my pushrod size i will try first im going to give it around a .02 pre load as that is the closest size rod you can order.
Last edited by Shortpersonbk; 12-24-2018 at 10:33 AM.
Some updates. First up is new lighting in the garage...went from 3 basic light blubs in the garage + the 4 in the garage door openers to this. Hurts a little to look up but no more shadows i something like 10x the amount of lumens in the garage which was not bad for a pnp solution that cost $120.
Got some more work done on the motor. Fitting is welded to the pan for the turbo oil drain front cover is on and new crank pulley is on.
Started to check for pushrod length and ran into some really annoying issues doing that. These comp bar link short travel lifters are a pain to measure vs oem ls7s or the full travel morals i have used in the past. These require a near 0 lash cold which gives you little margin for error vs the .05-.1 that people suggest for the ls7s. Then on top of that with no lifter trays it is more difficult to get the push rod checker to sit on the right spot on the lifter and if your not paying attention you can actually drop the push rod checker into the motor and need to use a magnet to fish it out lol.
Either way i have a educated guess on my pushrod size i will try first im going to give it around a .02 pre load as that is the closest size rod you can order.
Don't guess on this step. You can order custom pushrods for the exact length you need.
Also, while the motor is out, I would not use a OEM balancer. It'll eventually fail and likely sooner rather than later.
I have a "new" ATI balancer for the wet sump for sale. Hit me up if you're interested.
10-21-2018, 07:01 PM
