e-Force with no pump upgrade?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 271
Likes: 20
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Yes, absolutely. I installed the Stage-1 kit with S4X tuner as per the manual. I think it runs a bit rich (blackened tailpipes and I'm at altitude) Haven't checked spark-plugs yet. If they're blackened, I might forego the pump. Wondering if anyone's done this though. I don't want to be leaned at the 8th cylinder.
Idle is normal with the Stage 1 full kit. Gas mileage I lost 1 mpg. Dyno'ed at 483 at the Rear Wheels. Not bad for 7000 feet altitude. I'm wondering the Z06 fuel pump (PITA to install) needs more voltage or what percentage of more CFM fuel is given from the Edelbrock kit?
Idle is normal with the Stage 1 full kit. Gas mileage I lost 1 mpg. Dyno'ed at 483 at the Rear Wheels. Not bad for 7000 feet altitude. I'm wondering the Z06 fuel pump (PITA to install) needs more voltage or what percentage of more CFM fuel is given from the Edelbrock kit?
Last edited by mikecronis; Apr 29, 2019 at 01:14 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 1,837
From: Erlanger, Kentucky
The base pump probably could support the 599 hp kit but it is a good idea to upgrade just to make sure.
I purchased the pulley that is in the Stage 2 kit from Summit and also a Boost-A-Pump from A&A to go along with it. Much cheaper and contrary to what Edelbrock says in their instructions, Boost-A-Pumps are reliable. I also purchased the Racetronix harness also.
Edelbrock just wants you to buy the Stage 2 kit from them and make a $500+ profit on $300 dollars worth of parts ($50 for the 3.5" pulley, $250 for the Z06 pump).
The Stage 2 upgrade uses the same belt and the same ECU calibration as the stage 1.
The only other thing that I did was to go to 1-heat range colder plug (NGK TR6IX which NGK specifies for supercharged applications with a 0.040 gap). Car is running great.
I purchased the pulley that is in the Stage 2 kit from Summit and also a Boost-A-Pump from A&A to go along with it. Much cheaper and contrary to what Edelbrock says in their instructions, Boost-A-Pumps are reliable. I also purchased the Racetronix harness also.
Edelbrock just wants you to buy the Stage 2 kit from them and make a $500+ profit on $300 dollars worth of parts ($50 for the 3.5" pulley, $250 for the Z06 pump).
The Stage 2 upgrade uses the same belt and the same ECU calibration as the stage 1.
The only other thing that I did was to go to 1-heat range colder plug (NGK TR6IX which NGK specifies for supercharged applications with a 0.040 gap). Car is running great.
Last edited by Spaceme1117; May 2, 2019 at 03:40 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13,262
Likes: 3,150
From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
The base pump probably could support the 599 hp kit but it is a good idea to upgrade just to make sure.
I purchased the pulley that is in the Stage 2 kit from Summit and also a Boost-A-Pump from A&A to go along with it. Much cheaper and contrary to what Edelbrock says in their instructions, Boost-A-Pumps are reliable. I also purchased the Racetronix harness also.
Edelbrock just wants you to buy the Stage 2 kit from them and make a $500+ profit on $300 dollars worth of parts ($50 for the 3.5" pulley, $250 for the Z06 pump).
The Stage 2 upgrade uses the same belt and the same ECU calibration as the stage 1.
The only other thing that I did was to go to 1-heat range colder plug. Car is running great.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13,262
Likes: 3,150
From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Like I posted in the other thread about Edelbrock that going on now ...
_____________________________
Instead of spending all that time and money replacing the in-tank fuel pump, why not just install a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (BAP).
Some people will tell you that the BAP will burn up your fuel pump, but that is BS ... If installed correctly, the BAP only supplies extra voltage to your stock fuel pump when your above a preset boost pressure.
Sure, do like some folks have done and splice a couple of wires together and don't use a Hobbs pressure switch ... you can make your fuel pump run all the time at 17 volts ... and you will burn out your fuel pump sooner or later .. really a stupid idea !
Lets say you have the BAP being controlled by a 4 PSI Hobbs switch ... Well, the fuel pump only sees extra voltage when you are in the boost at or above 4 PSI .... How often are you driving the car above 4 PSI boost? (unless your running it in the Daytona 500)
Anyway ... How much extra fuel flow can the BAP provide > >
__________________________________
Increases Pump Voltage from: . . 13.5 Volts . to: . 17.0 Volts (only when above 4 PSI boost pressure)
. . . . . - Resulting In -
Increased Pump Flow from: . . . . 225 L / Hr . to: . 325 L / Hr
_____________________________
Instead of spending all that time and money replacing the in-tank fuel pump, why not just install a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (BAP).
Some people will tell you that the BAP will burn up your fuel pump, but that is BS ... If installed correctly, the BAP only supplies extra voltage to your stock fuel pump when your above a preset boost pressure.
Sure, do like some folks have done and splice a couple of wires together and don't use a Hobbs pressure switch ... you can make your fuel pump run all the time at 17 volts ... and you will burn out your fuel pump sooner or later .. really a stupid idea !
Lets say you have the BAP being controlled by a 4 PSI Hobbs switch ... Well, the fuel pump only sees extra voltage when you are in the boost at or above 4 PSI .... How often are you driving the car above 4 PSI boost? (unless your running it in the Daytona 500)
Anyway ... How much extra fuel flow can the BAP provide > >
__________________________________
Increases Pump Voltage from: . . 13.5 Volts . to: . 17.0 Volts (only when above 4 PSI boost pressure)
. . . . . - Resulting In -
Increased Pump Flow from: . . . . 225 L / Hr . to: . 325 L / Hr
