My setup is the C6 Grand Sport M6 (dry sump) manual LS3. I added the Stage-1 kit. I will be adding the Stage-2 kit (just purchased) next weekend.

Just called them and asked about potential oil in the air-intake manifold causing reverse pressure with the dry sump and he says that's "normal" and doesn't hurt anything. Well, I was a bit amused by this as it can change the way the car perceives octane but whatever. I've read quite a few folks have this issue on this forum, however. I find the car bogs a little at low rpm (under 3k) though my mileage is 18 city, 31 highway, which is decent.

I also mentioned the S4T Tune (canned) runs the car a bit conservatively and rich and he says if I get it tuned otherwise the warranty would be void. I mentioned I was at-altitude (Colorado Springs) and that when I install the Stage-2 kit if I did not put the Z06 fuel pump if that would be okay and he was VERY against this. I can understand his concern and said I'd "burn up" the engine. A bit dramatic but again, it's only a 0.5 pulley size change in inches and, pending spark-plug change, Perhaps a code might be thrown for cylinder 8 running lean.. maybe. I'll install the pump regardless. I suspect the plugs may be blackened and running rich. I'm switching to the ZR1 plugs (pre-gapped to 0.44.. had to adjust 2 of them) which might help. Has anyone noticed blackened plugs on Stage-1/2 stock C6 settings with e-Force?

Which side is the main fuel pump and which the siphon? I'm thinking the main pump is the driver's side. Does the Z06 pump require different voltage-load? Online the cost should be (for labor) about $300-$400 I think for that nasty pump and looks a bit of a level 2 kinda job than my basic ability so I'm taking it in to a GM mechanic.

 

If you are going to short cut anything..... don't let it be fuel. You WILL grenade the engine if it runs lean

 

Yeah, probably. Going with the supplied Z06 fuel-pump. Installation is a PITA. $1067 quoted for labor of 7.5 hours (manual vs. automatic transmission). About average I've seen.

 

Instead of spending all that time and money replacing the in-tank fuel pump, why not just install a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (BAP).

Some people will tell you that the BAP will burn up your fuel pump, but that is BS ... If installed correctly, the BAP only supplies extra voltage to your stock fuel pump when your above a preset boost pressure.

Sure, do like some folks have done and splice a couple of wires together and don't use a Hobbs pressure switch ... you can make your fuel pump run all the time at 17 volts ... and you will burn out your fuel pump sooner or later .. really a stupid idea !

Lets say you have the BAP being controlled by a 4 PSI Hobbs switch ... Well, the fuel pump only sees extra voltage when you are in the boost at or above 4 PSI .... How often are you driving the car above 4 PSI boost? (unless your running it in the Daytona 500)


Anyway ... How much extra fuel flow can the BAP provide > >
__________________________________


Increases Pump Voltage from: . . 13.5 Volts . to: . 17.0 Volts (only when above 4 PSI boost pressure)

. . . . . - Resulting In -

Increased Pump Flow from: . . . . 225 L / Hr . to: . 325 L / Hr


.

 

.044 is a lot of gap for a supercharged car with ZR1 factory plugs.No wonder car bogs and plugs are fouling. My ZR1 plugs are gapped at .028

 

I have a 2011 Grand Sport, dry sump and I also installed the Stage 1 kit. I then installed the 3.5" pulley with a Boost-A-Pump from A&A. Also installed a Racetronix fuel pump harness.

I installed NGK Iridium IX TR6IX part number 3689. NGK specifies these for supercharged applications with a 0.040 gap.

If I were you, I would return the Edelbrock kit and order the 3.5" pulley from Summit, get the Boost-A-Pump from A&A, and order the Racetronix harness. You can install everything yourself and will be much cheaper than the Edelbrock kit.

From what I have read, the A&A Boost-A-Pump has a failsafe built into the hobbe's switch. Normally it will activate the increased fuel pump voltage when it detects 3 PSI and above boost. But if the switch fails, it will default to turning the BAP on.

As for oil in the intake manifold, I expect increased oil from the PCV system because of the boost. I will eventually install a catch can for this.

 

BTW ... For a basic E-Force install ... Using a BAP along with your stock OEM fuel pump, your going to go too lean from the supplied injectors before your going to run out of fuel flow from the pump.