If I already have in my possession the Jet hot headers and high flow catted x-pipe and I am not worried about the cost and do appreciate the looks aspect of jet hot knowing that I am planning a supercharger in the future. what should I do keep it all with confidence or exchange it in for non coated and look at a different mid pipe? Also what happens when if the cats get blown out? how would I know? do they blow out gradually?

As far as the supercharger, I plan on only street use just like you I never plan to race my car on any track. The fact that I had 530 rwhp on my C5 with a centri procharger and felt that hp it makes driving my stock C6 GS feel very uninspiring...... I just don't have the single guy money anymore with 4 kids..... so the mods come much slower and much more well thought through.... lol. cost wise and reliability wise which way would you go if you were to do it all again? eforce, magnuson, or centi?

 

Cost and reliability, I would go with Magnuson Heartbeat or the E-force.

In the future, I would like to put a Magnuson Heartbeat on my 2016 SS.

 

and over a centri system?

if you were me what would you do with the header and catted x-pipe I now own but is brand new still in the box? Keep it and run it with confidence or exchange for non coated Kooks and how you think I will be fine with the Catted x-pipe?

 

I think the Centri systems are great but I like to lower rpm power delivery of the roots-style of superchargers.

Nothing negative at all with the coated headers you have nor the catted x-pipe. I would definitely keep what you have and run with them worry free whether you stay NA or go supercharged.

 

Thank you for your backing of my purchase, I appreciate your input as I like doing things once.... too expensive to do things twice....

Now you have me thinking about which supercharger..... I was all the way going to add a centri blower..... but maybe the roots style fits my use better? what other add ons would I need? to make things as bullet proof as possible?

 

I did the A&A kit on mine and put down 540rwhp on a mustang dyno. About 6 months later I went back and did headers and it put down 560 on the same dyno. My advise is to do it all at the same time so you don't have to pay for two tunes. That's my only regret. Everyone says the car sounds a lot better with the headers. It gets annoying sometimes but I have the M2W switch and that helps.

 

I would love to do it all at one time but my supercharger budget is probably about 2 years out so I will opt to spend more to get them on now and enjoy the small upgrade for the time being..... You are absolutley right and I sure wish I could do it all at one time!

Congrats on your new A&A kit and headers!!!! How do you like it?

 

Everything has been great. I did the install in the spring of 2016 and never had any issues. There is also pretty much zero maintenance required expect oil changes every 7K. You will also need to upgrade the tires since the stockers wont handle 550+ wheel.

 

When I installed the E-force and I also installed a DeWitts radiator for increased cooling capacity. Making more power, you make a lot more heat and need to get rid of it.

Also, since my car is a manual, it also had the front mounted oil cooler. The E-force kit for manual cars replaces that oil cooler with a block mounted oil cooler. If your car doesn't have some sort of engine oil cooler, I would also recommend that. You can get a DeWitts radiator that has an EOC integrated and all you would need are a set of factory oil lines; DeWitts also sells those.

And I also installed a stronger clutch, a Monster LT1-S twin disk. My stock clutch clutch was starting to slip. I can't remember if you mentioned if you have a manual or auto car. Auto cars should be fine at those power levels but an auxillary trans cooler would be a good upgrade.

And of course, like has been stated, grippier tires are also going to be needed to put the power down.

A lot of people also add a supercharger cam while they are at it. A cheap option would be the LS9 cam but there are many other options for making more power.

As you can see, things quickly start to snowball out of control.

 

Yes my car is a 2010 GS 6spd. So yes I have a manual trans. I would prefer not to go into the motor if possible. I want the car very reliable but yet to have some strong pull 550-600hp would be perfect for me for street use.

So DeWitts radiator and a twin disk and I would be set?

I would probably do an alki control unit for the most safety not sure I would want to go much further than that.other than grippier tires

 

The stock clutch IMO is going to be borderline and depend on how you drive it... if you're just doing highway pulls I think it has a chance. If you're doing 1/4 mile type stuff or launches then I think you'll end up needing another clutch. LT1-S twin is a good clutch, as is the Mantic twin. I have the LT1-S

Meth is nice for the added octane to help avoid knock, which is the #1 thing that will kill the pistons in these engines. You should be fine either way at 550-600hp IMO, but with meth should be safer

Radiator wise, personally I think the Dewitt's radiators are over rated and think that a clean stock radiator with the oil coolers kept separate will do the job just fine. IMO it's the stock radiator versions that have oil heat exchangers built in to the side of them that can't keep up. Most of the time you aren't going to be generating more heat than normal, just the times you're on it

I would skip it and see how things go personally, but I'm cheap so maybe you would rather go ahead with it

 

Not very relevant, but dumping gas is exactly what GM does with standard engine PCM to protect cats.

Your tuner is probably very familiar with it. Typically this is disabled during WOT dyno runs, though...

 

Indeed.

 

Great to know! thanks for the info

 

Agreed.