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Best LS3 Intake

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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 12:04 AM
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Default Best LS3 Intake

What is the best intake manifold for a boosted ls3 supporting 1000 hp. I was sold on the fast intake102, sniper 102 (sheet metal) and MSD initally. But after seeing some testing testing I was blown away at how well the stock performed against these name brand intakes. In fact the stock only really lost in RPMs above 6,800 and from back to back pulls it killed anything that was sheet medal. So I. Just trying to see what people are running on their c6 grand sport corvettes
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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 01:43 AM
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Stock
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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 04:38 AM
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Thanks, after watching all the youtube videos with the intake shoot outs it is absolutely amazing at how well the stock intake performs.
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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 09:04 AM
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Stock one is all that’s needed.
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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 09:12 AM
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Stock. The blower will dictate power levels, and intake does very little on a blown application. You want reliable, and the stock stuff is reliable.
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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 10:56 AM
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This is sooo crazy to me because I was sold on I needed an upgraded intake. I'm even disappointed that I changed my cam out that thing was good for up to 1000hp. That's fine though you know better you do better. To all thanks for the info you just saved me about $1,200 bucks. I can now throw that at new ARP bolts and Studs for my new custom built 416 ls block.
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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by tobb14
This is sooo crazy to me because I was sold on I needed an upgraded intake. I'm even disappointed that I changed my cam out that thing was good for up to 1000hp. That's fine though you know better you do better. To all thanks for the info you just saved me about $1,200 bucks. I can now throw that at new ARP bolts and Studs for my new custom built 416 ls block.
So, which is it? You wrote this earlier this morning on the Tech/Performance page.

I recently blew the engine in my C6 GS Corvette. After doing some research online I found a engine builder that builds and aftermarket LS3 468 engine block but it's wetsump. My GS has a dry sump and to make the engine compatible I have to take the 468 displacement down to 451. My question is can I just remove the drysump and put the wet sump in the car to keep the displacement. From my understanding the dry sump is for lap racing where if the car is tilted at an angle during laps, it can keep the engine oiled properly. I have absolutely no plans to lap race my car only drag and roll so in my limited understanding I feel that this is not really needed. Or does the dry sump performs some other task that i'm not tracking. I don't know what the draw backs are to not having the dry sump.
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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 03:49 PM
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If you are going for 1000hp, budget at least $40k, if not $50k.

My head studs alone were $1000. You need solid heads to hold down that power reliably long term.
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Old Sep 8, 2019 | 12:03 AM
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ARP or a different one. Not sure if I've even herd of $1k head studs and if that's the case what do you have holding your crank and main studs. The best I've ever herd of is ARP but I'm no expert. $50k into an engine not sure if I will get that serious but $50k for the entire package, engine, power adders, fuel, transmission, clutch and probably a few other items I fail to mention then I can see that all day long. Right now I'm just building it a little at a time starting with the engine. 800-1000rwhp is all I'm looking for. Anything over 800 is really good and 900+ I'm ecstatic. I just really feel that going over 1,000 is really, really dangerous for street use. 800 is a lot also but 1,000+ is overkill for me. I've seen vettes out run stock hayabusa's with 800rwhp and that plenty for me.
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Old Sep 8, 2019 | 12:09 AM
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It will more than likely be the 468 engine if I can delete my dry sump. I listed the 416 because it was about $5,000 cheaper and it supported up to 1200 hp. Because it was such low compression I was going to sell my Ti trim and put that money with the $5k and purchase a turbo setup for my C6 they are really expensive for the good ones. If I can't get one at the price I want then I will just stick with the orginal plan. Get bigger displacement and my Ti v1 will start to shine like a Ysi because it doesn't have to deliver as much boost to get me to the hp I'm looking for.
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Old Sep 8, 2019 | 09:05 AM
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ARP is a brand.... they make a lot of different hardware. Like saying your going to buy a corvette, base model, grandsport, z06, zr1?
ARP makes studs in base material, ARP 2000, CA 625, L19, etc, and in different sizes options.

I run the CA625 6 bolt kit.
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ar...-234-4314.html then add the other bolts for 6 bolt heads.



468 won't take boost.
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Old Sep 8, 2019 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
ARP is a brand.... they make a lot of different hardware. Like saying your going to buy a corvette, base model, grandsport, z06, zr1?
ARP makes studs in base material, ARP 2000, CA 625, L19, etc, and in different sizes options.

I run the CA625 6 bolt kit.
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ar...-234-4314.html then add the other bolts for 6 bolt heads.



468 won't take boost.
WOW!

What is the reasoning behind the 468 not excepting boost. I thought it was all about compression if I dropped it to a 9:1 Ratio I would be fine.
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Old Sep 8, 2019 | 03:47 PM
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No, not even close to true.

You have to lose a ton of ring land moving the piston pin up, and rod ratio goes to hell, all sorts of issues.
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Old Sep 9, 2019 | 02:43 AM
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Default 468

So is it best to go with the 416ci vs the bigger bores like, 427ci, 451, or 468ci. Also since the builder is offering custom pistons is this an issue that can be resolved through a custom piston build.
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Old Sep 9, 2019 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by tobb14
It will more than likely be the 468 engine if I can delete my dry sump. I listed the 416 because it was about $5,000 cheaper and it supported up to 1200 hp. Because it was such low compression I was going to sell my Ti trim and put that money with the $5k and purchase a turbo setup for my C6 they are really expensive for the good ones. If I can't get one at the price I want then I will just stick with the orginal plan. Get bigger displacement and my Ti v1 will start to shine like a Ysi because it doesn't have to deliver as much boost to get me to the hp I'm looking for.

A Ti trim is not enough to feed a 468. It would work better on a smaller displacement engine.
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Old Sep 10, 2019 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by tobb14
So is it best to go with the 416ci vs the bigger bores like, 427ci, 451, or 468ci. Also since the builder is offering custom pistons is this an issue that can be resolved through a custom piston build.
Talk to a shop like HPR that does 468s. To get that displacement it has to be a custom piston, where the ring lands are pushed up, and the pin is pushed up into the oil ring. Not even close to ideal for forced induction.

Plus cubes will just shift the power band, won't actually add power. 331 or 468 or 502 will all make the same power with the same blower. Blower will dictate power level. Cubes will just fill in some low end torque.

A 416 is even big for a Ti. Just do a nice stock cube setup if that is what you want.
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Old Sep 11, 2019 | 08:51 AM
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Hate to keep beating a dead horse. So a stock ls3 with Ti trim, meth and longtube headers will support 800rwhp with no issues? I'm still going with aftermarket lsx long block that supports 1200hp. Because ultimately I may want to grow to a turbo or ysi a few years from now. 1000rwhp is my absolute limit and 800 to 900rwhp would make me extreemly happy.

On another note I need to speak with my builder. He has been building race engines for years with bigger displacements and force induction added to the setup. I just need to ask a few more questions.
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Old Sep 11, 2019 | 12:36 PM
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Yes stock ls3 will make that all day.

LSX block for a Ti trim is nothing but a downgrade. They cool worse, and weigh a ton. Plus the added cost to support 1200 will be wasted, or it will be a something that actually doesn't support that power reliably, just marketing junk.
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