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Old Nov 1, 2019 | 03:24 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by DOUG @ ECS
Different dyno's put down different numbers and as long as the car is running solid so be it, but I have to agree with you. I have never had a 2200R/X combo make less than 1000, those are more 2200HD numbers. Not knocking your build slow goat, just looking to make sure you're getting what you should from your build.
No worries Doug. I appreciate the input from all of you. I have been thinking about this discussion, I find that there is methanol leaking from the outside of my charge tube whenever it sprays. I always suspected that the hole I drilled for one of the injectors was too big. I suspect a boost leak there. I'll order another charge pipe and see how it goes.
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Old Nov 1, 2019 | 03:26 PM
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Almost all 2200/Ysi cars that I see not crack 1000 are from belt slip/issues. Not enough tension, not proper belt setup/etc. With basically no changes besides working on belt system I went from 911rwhp to 1040rwhp.
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Old Nov 1, 2019 | 03:42 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Almost all 2200/Ysi cars that I see not crack 1000 are from belt slip/issues. Not enough tension, not proper belt setup/etc. With basically no changes besides working on belt system I went from 911rwhp to 1040rwhp.
I have a direct drive system. Which bracket are you using Unreal. Also, stock heads?
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Old Nov 1, 2019 | 03:51 PM
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Worth noting LS3 and not LS7?
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Old Nov 1, 2019 | 03:52 PM
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ECS bracket
Direct drive doesn't mean much, if the blower setup is not correct and setup correctly. Direct drive just helps eliminate the long belt that likes to stretch, doesn't magically cure all belt issues.

Going from a 535 to a 540 belt for example on my car is difference between 21psi and 24psi. Almost 100rwhp too.

Besides when car was headers/intake, car has never had stock heads, but that doesn't matter. Heads are not limiting you at all.
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Old Nov 6, 2019 | 04:41 PM
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Really? Kinda assuring but I just talked to my tuner and he said he only spun it to ~6k because it fell off after that... I have no idea why it falls off so hard. But he said they were having slipping issues before they tightened the belt so I don't know what the issue could be.

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Old Nov 6, 2019 | 08:13 PM
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Slip typically or possibly valve control/cam/etc.
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Old Nov 6, 2019 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
ECS bracket
Direct drive doesn't mean much, if the blower setup is not correct and setup correctly. Direct drive just helps eliminate the long belt that likes to stretch, doesn't magically cure all belt issues.

Going from a 535 to a 540 belt for example on my car is difference between 21psi and 24psi. Almost 100rwhp too.

Besides when car was headers/intake, car has never had stock heads, but that doesn't matter. Heads are not limiting you at all.
What size pulley are you using for that size belt. I have the 8" lower and 3 " upper and I am using a 545. Does that tensioner look to be tight enough?
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Old Nov 6, 2019 | 09:44 PM
  #29  
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IMO, no, mine is almost touching, but it is the bottom tensioner that is more important, and how much throw it has. Looks like a lot of belt dust around your blower too. Signs of slipping belt.

2.70" upper, 8" lower, 535 RPM belt.

Last edited by Unreal; Nov 6, 2019 at 09:45 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2019 | 09:48 PM
  #30  
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This isn't even tight on my car. When I actually go to tune and Dyno it will be so you can barely see light through there.
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Old Nov 6, 2019 | 10:47 PM
  #31  
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Wow. You are correct. I have a lot of dust and mine is nowhere near as tight as yours. I will tighten it more and clean the area.

Thank you
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Old Nov 6, 2019 | 11:04 PM
  #32  
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Same. Mine is so close to touching I had to check to make sure it wasn’t. It’s like a paper thin gap.
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Old Nov 7, 2019 | 08:20 AM
  #33  
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But like I said, the bottom spring tensioner is what matter the most. If you are closing up that gap just to remove slop in the belt, and the spring tensioner isn't moving and has no tension on it, you will slip no matter what. As soon as you rev and RPM goes up, belt stretches, you lose all tension no matter what the top looks like if you have no throw in your spring tensioner. You need to check to see where that is at. If close it up top isn't causing the spring tensioner to move, you have too long of a belt.
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Old Nov 7, 2019 | 08:20 AM
  #34  
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Also, be careful. If it was tuned like that, once you get it sorted, you can easily pick up 4-5psi of boost, and 100+rwhp. If it wasn't tuned like that, and doesn't have the fuel/etc, you can take out the motor.

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Old Nov 7, 2019 | 09:06 AM
  #35  
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Agreed. I basically make sure the spring loaded tensioner is max'd out with the manual one then stop around there.

Maybe I'll change my belt this weekend. It's been on there a few years.
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Old Nov 7, 2019 | 04:45 PM
  #36  
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Thank you gents. I am going to tighten up next week. I got some 1300 injectors and can't start the car until tuned anyway. I will retune and post the results.

Last edited by slow goat; Nov 7, 2019 at 04:45 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2019 | 07:15 AM
  #37  
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