Car is a C6 with an E Force making 8 psi.I dont really care for the E force but its what I have right now.
Might Mouse tech says to install the smaller hose to the valley plate port.
However, E force installations replaces the stock valley plate with a thinner plate and no port.


Pics show where the power brake vac is sourced.
--Can I use a T to plumb the catch can to this vacuum source without a problem?
Will it need a check valve to keep boost from pressurizing the can?

This pic shows the small hose from the can installed to the air bridge. This way the can has no vac and no function at all.
Valve cover port is capped.


Thanks guys
Angelo

 

I personally would not tap into the brake booster hose since that will partially kill some of the vacuum to the booster (I would think)

There has to be another vacuum source on the E-Force SC ... Isn't there a smaller (3/8") vacuum port right next to the large brake booster vacuum port on the SC ?

Also, you need to attach the inlet hose to the catch can from the valley cover barb (port) since that has a metered orifice in it. This valley cover port acts as a PCV valve as far as metering air is concerned. This is the port that will bring in all the dirty crankcase gasses into the catch can.

Here is how the catch can is plumbed on my Heartbeat SC:

Attachment 48340308

Attachment 48336643

 

Here is an alternate way to plumb the catch can.

Clean filtered air is routed into the crankcase area from the port foreword of the throttle body to the valve cover barb (port) instead of clean filtered air entering an aftermarket valve cover breather.

Anyway, this alternate way below does the same thing ...

 

I don’t think this will work properly, as it will defeat the purpose of the catch can, because the blue line will see engine vacuum and will pull “dirty” air out of the valve cover into the intake tract.
I any event, he doesn’t have a valley cover nipple, since the E-Force kit eliminates that.
All he needs is a good vacuum source (the nipple in his inlet duct may suffice, since it should be seeing vacuum at idle/cruise) for the vacuum side of the can, and then connect the dirty side nipple to either (or both) of the valve cover nipples, and that will provide a normal (stock type) PCV function where the catch can will trap any suspended/aerated oil pulled out of the crankcase area through the valve covers.
Of course, if you want high rpm blow-by relief, then you need a bigger nipple on the valve covers and the one way relief on the catch can.

 

Sammy ... Concerning the photo, you mentioned that the blue line will see vacuum.

The blue line should draw in fresh filtered air to the crankase via the valve cover nipple because that fresh filtered air is coming from [in front] of the throttle body (no vacuum there)

Make sense ? ?

 

You can also cap the valley cover off and pull from the valve cover directly. That is how the Mighty Mouse Wild can set ups work.

 

I dont think anyone knows how to hook up this thing. Tech at MM has given me three rambling contradicting emails on how to do it.
Im just gonna disconnect it and cap everything.
No way a catch can could evacuate anything under a boosted condition anyway.
Its a waste of money.

 

When I had an eforce I had one line going to drivers side valve cover, and the other going to the vacuum barb behind the throttle body. ( a check valve in this line). It worked perfectly like that for as long as I had it on there.

 

Yeah, you’re right. It won’t be getting vacuum in front of the throttle body. However, at high RPM, when blow-by is producing positive crankcase pressure, it’s still going to push oil through that hose into the intake tract, thereby defeating the whole purpose of installing a catch can.
There is absolutely no need to allow “fresh air” into the crankcase at idle, because even then there’s enough blow-by to produce a positive pressure in the crankcase. If you doubt me, try running your car without any vacuum connected to the crankcase cavity and open one of the nipples on the valve covers, and you’ll be surprised how much air comes out of that.
The simplest and best way to do it is to only connect the vacuum side of the can to a vacuum source - any one will do, even the brake booster hose - and then connect the breather side of the can to the valve cover(s) and block off everything else.
And then you need to put a pressure relief on it (either on the top of the can, or use one of MMS oil filler relief valves) to relieve excess blow by out of the crankcase when it’s at WOT and there’s no vacuum in the inlet to scavenge blow by. If you don’t do this, especially with a boost engine, you run the risk that at some point positive crankcase pressure will push out your rear crank seal.

 

Yep. That’s the way I did mine initially too, when I had an Elite catch can on it.
And with the E-Force/Magnuson/Whipple PD blowers, you don’t even need a check valve, since it will never make boost at or behind the throttle body.

 

Sammy .... If the catch can is routed as in the diagram below, you won't get any positive pressure in the crankcase even at high power / boost operation ... Any crankcase pressure just goes right out the breather on the valve cover. No possibility to damage the engine's rear main seal.


Attachment 48340308

 

Yep, that works. That’s exactly how I have my brother’s Gen V Camaro set up, except that I put a MM one way breather on the valve cover to allow positive crankcase pressure to escape at WOT.
The OP would have to use one of the nipples on the valve covers, as recommended by realcanuk, since the E-Force kit comes with a valley cover that doesn’t have the factory PCV nipple.