Another P/D vs Centrifugal Thread
Racer
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 488
Likes: 76
If you are worried about temp issues there are ‘bolt in’ air to water solutions out there for centri blowers. Not cheap but would block the rad the same as a PD (as effectively it’s just a HE). Worth a thought!
the Cordes solution is really neat if you aren’t using the fog light area for other coolers: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-900-rwhp.html
the Cordes solution is really neat if you aren’t using the fog light area for other coolers: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-900-rwhp.html
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,376
Likes: 1,118
I have to shake my head when I see people still saying that “PD” blowers have more heat issues than centrifugal setups on C6s. There are hundreds of post on this forum alone documenting the struggles that many centrifugal setups have had with serious overheating problems, with people adding massive aftermarket radiators and high$ fans, moving their oil coolers behind the fog lights, cutting the front bumper/frame, spacing out their intercoolers, etc. And it’s not confined to the 800-1200whp “Big Dick Daddy” setups either.
But, I have yet to see one thread about either a Edelbrock or Heartbeat setup overheating. Hmmn, something’s not making sense here… Yeah, I know, no doubt that’s because our setups don’t make enough power.
I’m running a stock fan, with my $50 Hayden ATF cooler stacked between the A/C condenser core and the radiator, with the standard Magnuson H/X up front. I have DeWitts rad, but that didn’t do anything for me either, other than give me peace of mind that I wouldn’t have to worry about the stock plastic cracking open, which would probably never happen anyway. I added a 160* thermostat way back when everything else was stock, and that only marginally affected my cooling, since back then the fan settings were stock too.
I’ve done all kinds of **** to my car to try to get IATs lower, some that worked and others that couldn’t. Unfortunately, I can’t spray meth on my IAT sensor, so I can’t brag about having lower than ambient IATs. But my engine coolant doesn’t boil, and my ATF temps usually run slightly lower than the ECTs.
I have many hours of datalogging at the track and on the road, which document that my ECTs have not gone over 210* in heavy traffic, and I’m sure my ATF temps haven’t been over 200 degrees since I added the ATF cooler.
On the street, my IATs are at about ambient, even in traffic, unless I get hard on the boost and at the track, in ~95* my IATs are typically at 102-108* at the start of a run (after a good burnout) and typically max out at ~130-135 at the end of the 1/8 and by the time I park in the pits, the IATs are back down to ~105-110. My ATF temps run ~170-190* on the street and usually peak around 190* at the end of a run at the track. I’ve never experienced a cooling problem at the track either.
With that setup, I can drive in traffic in high 90 degree weather with no cooling issues.
The only time my car has overheated was the couple of times I threw a belt (my own fault, from messing around with different tensioners, belts, etc., chasing an imaginary “belt-slip problem”) and I had to limp home.
I’m pretty sure I’ve interacted with most folks on here who have PD blowers on their cars, and I haven’t heard of one who has a genuine overheating problem. We all want “better”, yes, but that doesn’t equate to a problem.
At the end of the day, it has pretty much been documented that the trick to keeping ECTs down in the C6 is to ensure that you’re moving sufficient air through radiator to cool the engine, and the typical thick, centri intercooler blocks more airflow than the skinny/flat H/X core that comes with the Edelbrock and Magnuson kits. Having a fully shrouded fan (like the 2005 model cooling fan) helps tremendously as well.
Please note that I’m not trying to start any controversy. I just thought I would share my experience and point out the obvious to anyone who wants to do a little research on the topic.
But, I have yet to see one thread about either a Edelbrock or Heartbeat setup overheating. Hmmn, something’s not making sense here… Yeah, I know, no doubt that’s because our setups don’t make enough power.
I’m running a stock fan, with my $50 Hayden ATF cooler stacked between the A/C condenser core and the radiator, with the standard Magnuson H/X up front. I have DeWitts rad, but that didn’t do anything for me either, other than give me peace of mind that I wouldn’t have to worry about the stock plastic cracking open, which would probably never happen anyway. I added a 160* thermostat way back when everything else was stock, and that only marginally affected my cooling, since back then the fan settings were stock too.
I’ve done all kinds of **** to my car to try to get IATs lower, some that worked and others that couldn’t. Unfortunately, I can’t spray meth on my IAT sensor, so I can’t brag about having lower than ambient IATs. But my engine coolant doesn’t boil, and my ATF temps usually run slightly lower than the ECTs.
I have many hours of datalogging at the track and on the road, which document that my ECTs have not gone over 210* in heavy traffic, and I’m sure my ATF temps haven’t been over 200 degrees since I added the ATF cooler.
On the street, my IATs are at about ambient, even in traffic, unless I get hard on the boost and at the track, in ~95* my IATs are typically at 102-108* at the start of a run (after a good burnout) and typically max out at ~130-135 at the end of the 1/8 and by the time I park in the pits, the IATs are back down to ~105-110. My ATF temps run ~170-190* on the street and usually peak around 190* at the end of a run at the track. I’ve never experienced a cooling problem at the track either.
With that setup, I can drive in traffic in high 90 degree weather with no cooling issues.
The only time my car has overheated was the couple of times I threw a belt (my own fault, from messing around with different tensioners, belts, etc., chasing an imaginary “belt-slip problem”) and I had to limp home.
I’m pretty sure I’ve interacted with most folks on here who have PD blowers on their cars, and I haven’t heard of one who has a genuine overheating problem. We all want “better”, yes, but that doesn’t equate to a problem.
At the end of the day, it has pretty much been documented that the trick to keeping ECTs down in the C6 is to ensure that you’re moving sufficient air through radiator to cool the engine, and the typical thick, centri intercooler blocks more airflow than the skinny/flat H/X core that comes with the Edelbrock and Magnuson kits. Having a fully shrouded fan (like the 2005 model cooling fan) helps tremendously as well.
Please note that I’m not trying to start any controversy. I just thought I would share my experience and point out the obvious to anyone who wants to do a little research on the topic.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 202
From: Michigan
10000% agree with this as Sammy and I are at similar power levels.
I have to shake my head when I see people still saying that “PD” blowers have more heat issues than centrifugal setups on C6s. There are hundreds of post on this forum alone documenting the struggles that many centrifugal setups have had with serious overheating problems, with people adding massive aftermarket radiators and high$ fans, moving their oil coolers behind the fog lights, cutting the front bumper/frame, spacing out their intercoolers, etc. And it’s not confined to the 800-1200whp “Big Dick Daddy” setups either.
But, I have yet to see one thread about either a Edelbrock or Heartbeat setup overheating. Hmmn, something’s not making sense here… Yeah, I know, no doubt that’s because our setups don’t make enough power.
I’m running a stock fan, with my $50 Hayden ATF cooler stacked between the A/C condenser core and the radiator, with the standard Magnuson H/X up front. I have DeWitts rad, but that didn’t do anything for me either, other than give me peace of mind that I wouldn’t have to worry about the stock plastic cracking open, which would probably never happen anyway. I added a 160* thermostat way back when everything else was stock, and that only marginally affected my cooling, since back then the fan settings were stock too.
I’ve done all kinds of **** to my car to try to get IATs lower, some that worked and others that couldn’t. Unfortunately, I can’t spray meth on my IAT sensor, so I can’t brag about having lower than ambient IATs. But my engine coolant doesn’t boil, and my ATF temps usually run slightly lower than the ECTs.
I have many hours of datalogging at the track and on the road, which document that my ECTs have not gone over 210* in heavy traffic, and I’m sure my ATF temps haven’t been over 200 degrees since I added the ATF cooler.
On the street, my IATs are at about ambient, even in traffic, unless I get hard on the boost and at the track, in ~95* my IATs are typically at 102-108* at the start of a run (after a good burnout) and typically max out at ~130-135 at the end of the 1/8 and by the time I park in the pits, the IATs are back down to ~105-110. My ATF temps run ~170-190* on the street and usually peak around 190* at the end of a run at the track. I’ve never experienced a cooling problem at the track either.
With that setup, I can drive in traffic in high 90 degree weather with no cooling issues.
The only time my car has overheated was the couple of times I threw a belt (my own fault, from messing around with different tensioners, belts, etc., chasing an imaginary “belt-slip problem”) and I had to limp home.
I’m pretty sure I’ve interacted with most folks on here who have PD blowers on their cars, and I haven’t heard of one who has a genuine overheating problem. We all want “better”, yes, but that doesn’t equate to a problem.
At the end of the day, it has pretty much been documented that the trick to keeping ECTs down in the C6 is to ensure that you’re moving sufficient air through radiator to cool the engine, and the typical thick, centri intercooler blocks more airflow than the skinny/flat H/X core that comes with the Edelbrock and Magnuson kits. Having a fully shrouded fan (like the 2005 model cooling fan) helps tremendously as well.
Please note that I’m not trying to start any controversy. I just thought I would share my experience and point out the obvious to anyone who wants to do a little research on the topic.
But, I have yet to see one thread about either a Edelbrock or Heartbeat setup overheating. Hmmn, something’s not making sense here… Yeah, I know, no doubt that’s because our setups don’t make enough power.
I’m running a stock fan, with my $50 Hayden ATF cooler stacked between the A/C condenser core and the radiator, with the standard Magnuson H/X up front. I have DeWitts rad, but that didn’t do anything for me either, other than give me peace of mind that I wouldn’t have to worry about the stock plastic cracking open, which would probably never happen anyway. I added a 160* thermostat way back when everything else was stock, and that only marginally affected my cooling, since back then the fan settings were stock too.
I’ve done all kinds of **** to my car to try to get IATs lower, some that worked and others that couldn’t. Unfortunately, I can’t spray meth on my IAT sensor, so I can’t brag about having lower than ambient IATs. But my engine coolant doesn’t boil, and my ATF temps usually run slightly lower than the ECTs.
I have many hours of datalogging at the track and on the road, which document that my ECTs have not gone over 210* in heavy traffic, and I’m sure my ATF temps haven’t been over 200 degrees since I added the ATF cooler.
On the street, my IATs are at about ambient, even in traffic, unless I get hard on the boost and at the track, in ~95* my IATs are typically at 102-108* at the start of a run (after a good burnout) and typically max out at ~130-135 at the end of the 1/8 and by the time I park in the pits, the IATs are back down to ~105-110. My ATF temps run ~170-190* on the street and usually peak around 190* at the end of a run at the track. I’ve never experienced a cooling problem at the track either.
With that setup, I can drive in traffic in high 90 degree weather with no cooling issues.
The only time my car has overheated was the couple of times I threw a belt (my own fault, from messing around with different tensioners, belts, etc., chasing an imaginary “belt-slip problem”) and I had to limp home.
I’m pretty sure I’ve interacted with most folks on here who have PD blowers on their cars, and I haven’t heard of one who has a genuine overheating problem. We all want “better”, yes, but that doesn’t equate to a problem.
At the end of the day, it has pretty much been documented that the trick to keeping ECTs down in the C6 is to ensure that you’re moving sufficient air through radiator to cool the engine, and the typical thick, centri intercooler blocks more airflow than the skinny/flat H/X core that comes with the Edelbrock and Magnuson kits. Having a fully shrouded fan (like the 2005 model cooling fan) helps tremendously as well.
Please note that I’m not trying to start any controversy. I just thought I would share my experience and point out the obvious to anyone who wants to do a little research on the topic.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,153
Likes: 114
@CI GS totally agree with what you put and this has been echoed by the ZR1 people as well (many of which move to the maggy HE)!
the Cordes cooler I posted below was just an option for the centri guys to have a solution akin to what the PD blower peeps have. I.e. one that only adds a thin and large surface area HE added to the cooling pack.
the Cordes cooler I posted below was just an option for the centri guys to have a solution akin to what the PD blower peeps have. I.e. one that only adds a thin and large surface area HE added to the cooling pack.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 22
From: Lehigh Valley Pennsylvania
I’ve done all kinds of **** to my car to try to get IATs lower, some that worked and others that couldn’t. Unfortunately, I can’t spray meth on my IAT sensor, so I can’t brag about having lower than ambient IATs. But my engine coolant doesn’t boil, and my ATF temps usually run slightly lower than the ECTs.
I have many hours of datalogging at the track and on the road, which document that my ECTs have not gone over 210* in heavy traffic, and I’m sure my ATF temps haven’t been over 200 degrees since I added the ATF cooler.
On the street, my IATs are at about ambient, even in traffic, unless I get hard on the boost and at the track, in ~95* my IATs are typically at 102-108* at the start of a run (after a good burnout) and typically max out at ~130-135 at the end of the 1/8 and by the time I park in the pits, the IATs are back down to ~105-110. My ATF temps run ~170-190* on the street and usually peak around 190* at the end of a run at the track. I’ve never experienced a cooling problem at the track either.
I have many hours of datalogging at the track and on the road, which document that my ECTs have not gone over 210* in heavy traffic, and I’m sure my ATF temps haven’t been over 200 degrees since I added the ATF cooler.
On the street, my IATs are at about ambient, even in traffic, unless I get hard on the boost and at the track, in ~95* my IATs are typically at 102-108* at the start of a run (after a good burnout) and typically max out at ~130-135 at the end of the 1/8 and by the time I park in the pits, the IATs are back down to ~105-110. My ATF temps run ~170-190* on the street and usually peak around 190* at the end of a run at the track. I’ve never experienced a cooling problem at the track either.
Oh, and if you are set on a PD, I would only really look at the Kong Performance units, but JMO.
Last edited by NormWild; Jul 15, 2021 at 11:58 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,376
Likes: 1,118
Your IATs are taken pre-blower on a PD, so to saying what your IATs are is not accurate. Buy the S/C system that makes you happy, everybody thinks their choice is the correct one. I have 60K miles on my centrifugal and never even thought of overheating once, stock fan, stock radiator. Considering 1st & 2nd are already useless on the street, never once did I think, "Man, I wish this boost came on sooner."
Oh, and if you are set on a PD, I would only really look at the Kong Performance units, but JMO.
Oh, and if you are set on a PD, I would only really look at the Kong Performance units, but JMO.
BTW: The Kong Performance unit is only an option for replacing a stock LS9 blower, since it’s designed to use the ZR1/LS9 belt system, and GM has long discontinued the LS9 drive kit, and, as far as I know, no one else offers all the components you need to install the Kong blower on a LS3. So buying one of those would be a huge waste of money, unless you already have an LS9 drive system (A/C compressor, alternator, balancer and all the necessary LS9-specific bracketry lying around.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 204
No right or wrong choice here. My Vette has an AA kit and it’s a riot. My CTS-V is also a blast to drive. Each blower is best suited to the application. The Vette is light and nimble so Centri linear power curve compliments it well. The V is a heavy pig and benefits from all the low end torque. Each car has no issues blowing the tires off.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,376
Likes: 1,118
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,376
Likes: 1,118
Interesting. How did you get that to work, with the different belt spacing between the LS3 and LS9 and with the power steering reservoir and alternator bracket being in the way of the LS9 blower snout/throttle body? What width belt are you running on it? A picture would be worth a thousand words...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,376
Likes: 1,118
Racer
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 296
Likes: 87
