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8 Rib setup.. is it really worth it?

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Old Dec 21, 2025 | 10:46 AM
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Default 8 Rib setup.. is it really worth it?

Looking for honest opinions. I have gotten a lot of differing feedback so I wanted to bring the topic here.

2011 C6 GS M6. Forged 416 stroker, BoostLine Rods. Flex E85. Fresh rebuild. Monster stage 3 clutch. Stock trans, stock rear end. ECS trans brace, 355 rear tire.

ECS Novi 1500 - Build is finishing this week and I have to make the decision to either stick with the 6-rib or upgrade to the 8 (haven't sourced one yet, another part of discussion).

My main concern is whether or not I am tapped out on what the stock trans and rear end can handle for power, assuming I'd be able to achieve 900-950ish cto crank on E85. If someone were to tell me with certainty that the drivetrain can handle 1000'ish HP, and I could find an "affordable" 8-rib, I would likely lean that direction. If this will require several other upgrades, I'd likely settle with the 6-rib. Lastly, is there enough value in the 8-rib? Any real life numbers that can be shared with me on similar setups for HP rating?

If someone has a good link or contact for the 8-rib, please share that as well.

TIA.
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Old Dec 21, 2025 | 09:10 PM
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I am still running a 6 rib belt on my set up. I start getting belt slip when it hits around 12 psi. When I have a new really tight belt, I will hit 14 lbs. really depends on how hard you plan to beat on it.
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Old Dec 21, 2025 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by russ472
I am still running a 6 rib belt on my set up. I start getting belt slip when it hits around 12 psi. When I have a new really tight belt, I will hit 14 lbs. really depends on how hard you plan to beat on it.

How much horsepower at 12lbs?
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Old Dec 21, 2025 | 10:29 PM
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A 10% OD will let you run a larger SC pulley with more wrap for the same amount of boost.

I am having an engine built. Planning to install a 10% OD 8 rib. Not that much cost differance and won't have to run the belt so tight.
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Old Dec 22, 2025 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveJewels
A 10% OD will let you run a larger SC pulley with more wrap for the same amount of boost.

I am having an engine built. Planning to install a 10% OD 8 rib. Not that much cost differance and won't have to run the belt so tight.
Thanks for the input, do you have a link to the specific pulley you're planning on using?
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Old Dec 22, 2025 | 09:41 AM
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We upgrade to the direct drive at 700 rwhp, although we have had some customers run for years in the 800's, we do not recommend it. Direct drive units only come in two configurations, 8 rib is 10% over drive, and 10 rib is 15% over drive. So on a 1500 head unit the max RPM will be achieved with a 3.6" head unit pulley.
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Old Dec 22, 2025 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Zkdk3000
Looking for honest opinions. I have gotten a lot of differing feedback so I wanted to bring the topic here.

2011 C6 GS M6. Forged 416 stroker, BoostLine Rods. Flex E85. Fresh rebuild. Monster stage 3 clutch. Stock trans, stock rear end. ECS trans brace, 355 rear tire.

ECS Novi 1500 - Build is finishing this week and I have to make the decision to either stick with the 6-rib or upgrade to the 8 (haven't sourced one yet, another part of discussion).

My main concern is whether or not I am tapped out on what the stock trans and rear end can handle for power, assuming I'd be able to achieve 900-950ish cto crank on E85. If someone were to tell me with certainty that the drivetrain can handle 1000'ish HP, and I could find an "affordable" 8-rib, I would likely lean that direction. If this will require several other upgrades, I'd likely settle with the 6-rib. Lastly, is there enough value in the 8-rib? Any real life numbers that can be shared with me on similar setups for HP rating?

If someone has a good link or contact for the 8-rib, please share that as well.

TIA.
The benefit of a 8 rib conversation is the dedicated blower belt and then the dedicated accessory belts. The 6 rib belt is a very long belt and is known to throw the belt at higher rpms or long pulls. The long belt flexes to much. The 8 rib also gives your more grip on the pulley. I would say if your going to make the change then go 10 rib. 8 rib is usually good to around 1000whp but the 10 rib does not cost much more and will give you added grip incase you decide to change the head unit for something bigger.
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Old Dec 22, 2025 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Zkdk3000
Thanks for the input, do you have a link to the specific pulley you're planning on using?
I plan on calling ATI tomorrow. I talked to an ATI person at PRI. I didn't notice until later that the one he pointed me to was for a LS7 which has a longer snout.
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Old Dec 23, 2025 | 08:11 PM
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Avoid any issues and just do the 10 rib.
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 09:40 PM
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ECS 1500, LS2 402, Greg Good ported LS3 heads, intake, my sleeper cam. 93+meth 14 years ago. 850rwhp/800rwtq. Had a 100 shot on top of it but not used here. 6 rib, 3.125 pulley, Dallas Performance direct drive. Beat the crap out of this car daily, 1/4 mile, 1/2 mile etc.


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Old Dec 29, 2025 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by thehulk
Avoid any issues and just do the 10 rib.
This!!!!

Likely you will change the TI for something larger on a 427 down the road and will not want to deal with belt slip. Everyone wants to save a buck and get everything from the small belt. It will leave you on the side of the road. Vortech/Paxton run awful setup ratios requiring you to run baby pulleys. So you want a wide belt to get everything you can from the setup. You will toss the 6 rib on high end pulls and sometimes on a shift because the belt is so long. Its just a common thing. With 8 rib you can get a lot but if there is ever a goal of 1000whp you will have to stretch the belt to the limit so it doesn't slip. It will end up snapping from being too tight or missing a shift. If your lucky it only takes out the blower belt not the accessory belts. 10 rib it... One and done!!
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Old Dec 29, 2025 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveJewels
I plan on calling ATI tomorrow. I talked to an ATI person at PRI. I didn't notice until later that the one he pointed me to was for a LS7 which has a longer snout.
Make sure you pin the crank!! do not rely on just a key way. It will crack the hub on the balancer.
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Old Dec 29, 2025 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Zkdk3000
Thanks for the input, do you have a link to the specific pulley you're planning on using?

Called ATI this morning. PN 917309

This is for a 1997 to 2013 LS1, 2, 3, 6 in a Y body, G8, or SS

8.275" diameter. Use 8.175" to calculate CSC impeller speed. 3.8" on the CSC will give you 54,213 RPM impeller at 7,000 RPM.

That is a little fast for a typical V-3. Mine has upgraded bearings.

Originally Posted by PSSSSSHC6
Make sure you pin the crank!! do not rely on just a key way. It will crack the hub on the balancer.
We are going to pin it.

Last edited by SteveJewels; Dec 30, 2025 at 07:13 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2025 | 12:57 PM
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I'll chime in even though I'm in a c5. I recently built a 403 LS2 and running a Novi 2000 unit. When I first got the build complete, I was running 6 rib. I snapped 3 belts on high pull shifts. The last one took out my oil drain line. Talked with ECS, builder, and tuner. They all recommended at least going to an 8. ECS said direct drive, but cost limited me due to the build.

I already had the 8 rib ATI on knowing I would go to the 8 rib setup later. The rest of the 8 rib pulleys were easy to find and were relatively affordable.

Since the switch from 6 to 8, I haven't had any belts snap (yet) but I haven't really driven it a lot since. But so far it's holding. I'm right about 11 psi and my numbers are 780/660.

I would highly suggest going with the 8. It'll save headache with belts bc I would say you're going to be snapping them if you're hard on it.
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Old Dec 31, 2025 | 02:48 PM
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Thank you for all the replies, made the decision and paid for the 8-rib this AM. Ton of valid points on the upgrade, especially the reliability standpoint. Buy once cry once, right? (I've been crying for months over this build though LOL)

Thanks fellas! Enjoy your New Years.
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Old Jan 1, 2026 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Zkdk3000
Thank you for all the replies, made the decision and paid for the 8-rib this AM. Ton of valid points on the upgrade, especially the reliability standpoint. Buy once cry once, right? (I've been crying for months over this build though LOL)

Thanks fellas! Enjoy your New Years.
You might think you saved money by going for a lower option, but trust me, if you ever decide to turn up the power, you'll end up spending more later...and it won’t be fun.

I’m not trying to be a smartass, but I initially went with an 8 rib setup and ended up switching to a 10 rib. The 8 rib left me stranded on the side of the road three times, which was incredibly frustrating. Sure, I’m over 1,000 rwhp, but reaching that isn’t as hard as you might think.


I just re-read you first post.... your 8 rib is gonna be on borrowed time. I suggest learning how to change the belt on the side of the road.
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Old Jan 2, 2026 | 03:12 PM
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So how much HP/boost can the A&A with a 6 rib setup hold? I assume under 600 RWHP is safe with a 6 rib?
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Old Jan 2, 2026 | 05:55 PM
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Mine is pushing 9.5 PSI = 750 WHP with no detectable slip.

2010 LS3
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Old Jan 6, 2026 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveJewels
Mine is pushing 9.5 PSI = 750 WHP with no detectable slip.

2010 LS3
Do the ECS and A&A superchargers have the same pulley setups or are they slightly different?
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Old Jan 9, 2026 | 10:48 PM
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Go direct/dedicated drive
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