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I was actually planning on geting an LPE or Callaway tuning kit with different head, cams and exhaust which should give me with proper tuning around 500 BHP.
Problem is, that selling this car wont be easy as all strongly modified cars and the C6 Z06 might be quite a thrill .
So I want to get as much h/torque out of the engine as possible without opening it.
Andreas G. got 386RWHP/377RWTQ with headers/cats/magnaflow cat back and Z-Industries tuning, which I think is a very good result.
I might also add a air intake as the honker. What other "bolts on" items would also be useful?
I think the numbers may improve a bit as time moves forward with the tuning. Although it is a bit dishonest, I don't see why you couldn't have the heads pulled and have a mild port job done on them and have a cam profiled along the lines of the 2002-2004 LS6 cam installed. You will have stock drivability from those mods and should be able to extract another 30 to 40rwhp, IMO. You could sell it as basically stock....
Other than that, you can try and lighten up the rotating assemblies: CF driveshaft is bound to become available, lighter wheels, lighter clutch.
Other than that, you can try and lighten up the rotating assemblies: CF driveshaft is bound to become available, lighter wheels, lighter clutch.
Todd
I completely agree with the above, especially the wheels. The benefits from lighter wheels (and tires) are amazing. Everything improves (braking, handling, acceleration). From what has been posted, the stock wheels are not too heavy for their size, around 25-27 lbs. However, when wheels that weigh 5-10 lbs. less each arrive, I will likely be purchasing. So long as the wheels are strong enough to survive normal street use, there is no down side (other than initial expense). Unlike engine mods, lighter wheels put less stress on the engine rather than more.
Would rockers be considered as a bolt on? Seems to me a person would be able to cross 400 rw with rockers, headers and back, and tuning. Of course you would be into it for springs and such with the rockers but it is a lot less work than the cam and would be still run pretty much like stock as far as driveability.
Would rockers be considered as a bolt on? Seems to me a person would be able to cross 400 rw with rockers, headers and back, and tuning. Of course you would be into it for springs and such with the rockers but it is a lot less work than the cam and would be still run pretty much like stock as far as driveability.
They are the things which multiply the cam's lift by 1.7 (or some other number) so that total lift at the valves is higher than at the cam's lobes.
Technically you have to open the engine to change them, but it's incredibly easy to do compared with other internal engine mods.
assuming you don't need to upgrade springs.
this was manditory on non z06 c5's. but have no idea on c6's
guessing the best "bang" short of a head/cam package would be
long tube headers. but, a z06 cam and some quality ported heads would be easier to hide. if that is what you want to do...
one last thought on this. get a chip when they become availible and a lighter set of wheels? this would be a breeze to make stock again.
You don't have to change the springs with 1.8 rockers
I got an LS2 valve spring and checked it for use with 1.8 rockers.
Specs: LS2 cam lift .525 Divided by 1.7=.309 lobe lift X1.8 rocker ratio=.556 cam lift. This is a little more than the 2002-2004 Z06 cam of .551in/.547ex. The LS2 valve spring is the Z06 spring of 2002-2004.
At an installed height of 1.80 It has 100lbs of seat pressure, and at .556 lift it has 300lbs on the nose of the cam.(Max lift). It still has .065 to coil bind which is more than enough of a safety margin.
This increases the lift of the LS2 cam by .031. It should be good for 15-18 RWHP. It depends on what else you've done. For the money the best rockers are the nonadjustable Jessel rockers $695. True, it's not as good a puting in a cam with some duration in it say .222/.224 @ .50, but on the other hand it's not a bad alternative, and you can always grind a cam to the 1.8 rockers later.
Its the labor that kills you with a cam change. Rockers are far easier on the wallet, springs or not. This has been done by one of the vendors but I could not pull the thread with the search function.
Yesterday I added Kooks headers, Magnaflows, a low temp. thermostat and Andreas G. did a very minor modification on my intake ( basically K and N air filters.)
Baseline dyno was 342.63 rwhp and 346.52 retq.
After mods dyno'd 373.33 rwhp and 369.94 rwtq.
Next week Z-Industries is tuning my car. I am hoping to end up between 385 and 390 rwhp.
The car sounds like a Vette should and pulls like a "*****" in all gears.
These mods were done for $3500.
The car was a little refined for my taste as stock.
I am very happy with these very basic bolt ons.
We have here in Switzerland a very handy guy for tuning, he might do the software stuff as soon its available, but as for the bolts on, I guess I will go for the Kooks and the Magnaflows as well. Only heard good things about them .
With proper tuning the cartec torque module should not be necessary I guess...
Just a question, what does the 160 T-stat do for the car exactly? I've read a few posts about it, some positive, some negative. How exactly does it effect engine performance?
Fredo: Was that price including installation of those parts, or did you do the work yourself?
Just a question, what does the 160 T-stat do for the car exactly? I've read a few posts about it, some positive, some negative. How exactly does it effect engine performance?
Fredo: Was that price including installation of those parts, or did you do the work yourself?
Thanks
The only thing a thermostat does is set the minimum temperature that the coolant can reach. Coolant below this temperature will heat up until it reaches it and never drop below it again while the engine is running.
Changing the thermostat without changing the fan control is generally useless.
Many of the more famous tuners have stated that they find a 180 degree thermostat to be optimal, not the 160.
Thing is, these motors with 160 stats don't run at 160, they run at between 174-183 on the road. The oil temps run at between 198-205 which is plenty hot enough to keep everything clean inside, and make good power. BTW, LPE uses the 160 stat in there 500 HP,and there 402/ 510 package. Ever wonder why?
The only thing a thermostat does is set the minimum temperature that the coolant can reach. Coolant below this temperature will heat up until it reaches it and never drop below it again while the engine is running.
Changing the thermostat without changing the fan control is generally useless.
Many of the more famous tuners have stated that they find a 180 degree thermostat to be optimal, not the 160.
Pardon my ignorance on this one, so what does this do for the engine in terms of performance? Or is this mainly a mod to keep the engine 'healthy' when adding more performance?
Basically I'm trying to figure out what are the benefits of having it. Why would anybody want this mod basically? .
Pardon my ignorance on this one, so what does this do for the engine in terms of performance? Or is this mainly a mod to keep the engine 'healthy' when adding more performance?
Basically I'm trying to figure out what are the benefits of having it. Why would anybody want this mod basically? .
Thanks for the help guys
The theoretical benefit is that a cooler engine means the incoming air and fuel will be cooler and, thus, provide more power due to greater density.
The theoretical benefit is that a cooler engine means the incoming air and fuel will be cooler and, thus, provide more power due to greater density.
I think that is only part of it. There are combustion issues that Aluminum's Thermal conductivity creates. Old cast iron engines of the past may benifit.