Traction System Problem
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Kernersville NC
Traction System Problem
On two occassions now, my car has thrown the Traction System Active message when I just rolling down the highway. Both time I was running just above 70mph. When the message comes on, the car slows to 70mph. I can manually turn off the traction control and all is fine again.
Last week I spent $800 for the dealer to replace the tire sensors in my aftermarket wheels. He was sure that was causing the problem
. The car did the same thing this weekend with the proper (new) sensors in the wheels. So much for that theory! 
Has anyone else experienced this? According to the GM dealer, it could be "any one of a hundred things" causing it. The car is about 2 months old now and has just over 2300 miles on it. The first time it did this was April 6. New sensors were put in on April 8. Then it did it again on April 10.
Last week I spent $800 for the dealer to replace the tire sensors in my aftermarket wheels. He was sure that was causing the problem
. The car did the same thing this weekend with the proper (new) sensors in the wheels. So much for that theory! Has anyone else experienced this? According to the GM dealer, it could be "any one of a hundred things" causing it. The car is about 2 months old now and has just over 2300 miles on it. The first time it did this was April 6. New sensors were put in on April 8. Then it did it again on April 10.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Macomb twp Michigan
on my c6 my tracton control went bad it said service traction system though, and they really couldnt figure out what was wrong they switched a sensor somewhere and it didnt fix it when i start the car up and if its wet out and the tire break loose the traction control goes out and sais service traction system i even brought my car in to show them the light on so they didnt think i was crazy all i can say is im upset and youll have to just keep taking it back to them try and get your 800 dollars back too
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From: Kernersville NC
Tire sizes
Originally Posted by EHS
Tire sizes please.
In other words, is there a greater than 10% difference between the circumference, front to back?
In other words, is there a greater than 10% difference between the circumference, front to back?
305/30 ZR 19 Rear
They have been on the car for over 2k miles and the traction system problem just started.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Austin Texas
You have your Active Handling computer confused.
Stock front 25.72" dia. to your front of 25.58" dia. Close, .24" smaller
Stock rear 26.85 dia. to your rear of 26.2" dia. Not close, .65" smaller
My understanding of the active Handling is that it measures tire rotation and applies the brakes to even things out . I have no idea what tolerances the computer works on but you have made a major circumference change. Only 1/2 % smaller in the front but 2.4% smaller in the back.
Might be easier to understand if we look at the tires at 75MPH;
Front stock=980rpm Front changed=986rpm; only 6rpm diff.
Rear stock=939rpm Rear changed= 962rpm; 23rpm diff.
Maybe get a larger diameter rear OR a smaller diameter front?
Stock front 25.72" dia. to your front of 25.58" dia. Close, .24" smaller
Stock rear 26.85 dia. to your rear of 26.2" dia. Not close, .65" smaller
My understanding of the active Handling is that it measures tire rotation and applies the brakes to even things out . I have no idea what tolerances the computer works on but you have made a major circumference change. Only 1/2 % smaller in the front but 2.4% smaller in the back.
Might be easier to understand if we look at the tires at 75MPH;
Front stock=980rpm Front changed=986rpm; only 6rpm diff.
Rear stock=939rpm Rear changed= 962rpm; 23rpm diff.
Maybe get a larger diameter rear OR a smaller diameter front?
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
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Originally Posted by haljensen
You have your Active Handling computer confused.
Stock front 25.72" dia. to your front of 25.58" dia. Close, .24" smaller
Stock rear 26.85 dia. to your rear of 26.2" dia. Not close, .65" smaller
My understanding of the active Handling is that it measures tire rotation and applies the brakes to even things out . I have no idea what tolerances the computer works on but you have made a major circumference change. Only 1/2 % smaller in the front but 2.4% smaller in the back.
Might be easier to understand if we look at the tires at 75MPH;
Front stock=980rpm Front changed=986rpm; only 6rpm diff.
Rear stock=939rpm Rear changed= 962rpm; 23rpm diff.
Maybe get a larger diameter rear OR a smaller diameter front?
Stock front 25.72" dia. to your front of 25.58" dia. Close, .24" smaller
Stock rear 26.85 dia. to your rear of 26.2" dia. Not close, .65" smaller
My understanding of the active Handling is that it measures tire rotation and applies the brakes to even things out . I have no idea what tolerances the computer works on but you have made a major circumference change. Only 1/2 % smaller in the front but 2.4% smaller in the back.
Might be easier to understand if we look at the tires at 75MPH;
Front stock=980rpm Front changed=986rpm; only 6rpm diff.
Rear stock=939rpm Rear changed= 962rpm; 23rpm diff.
Maybe get a larger diameter rear OR a smaller diameter front?
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From: Kernersville NC
Originally Posted by CoolShoesWalkin
Just curious, why did you have to pay $800 for a car that is under warranty?
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From: Kernersville NC
Originally Posted by vrodder64
Then why would the problem start after 2300 miles of driving. If the diameter was too different, wouldn't the problem start right away.
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From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by vrodder64
Then why would the problem start after 2300 miles of driving. If the diameter was too different, wouldn't the problem start right away.
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From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by Burple_X
Yeah, and I would also like to know why the problem is intermittant. I can't make the problem reoccur for the mechanic. I drove 200 miles Sunday and it only did it one time. That included stopping and turning the car off a couple times too. So, the same opportunity for it to happen should have been there several times.
once i was playing with a 350z (around 75 mph) and it tripped, it started bucking wildly like a real bad miss, then the DIC said "service traction system" and my traction light came on. I had to turn the whole system off so i could continue to play.
it resets after shuting down the car.
the other time it did it when I had my girlfriend in the car and i got on it a bit from a stand still, i was pulling out from some gravel.
The workaround I use is whenever it's damp I turn off the traction control, I know that kinda defeats the purpose of having it but I don't want to leave the car at the dealer until they fireu out what the prob is.
the first time it happened I hit onstar and they told me there was something wrong with the ABS and I needed to take in in right away. I did and they couldn't find anything, since I shut off the car and it reset.....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Goleta CA
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
The tire diameter difference sure sounds like it may be contributing to your problem, at least in part. Being intermittent sure makes it a lot harder to diagnose. Have you driven at speeds over 75 since it started happening? And is there anything else that you modified? Did it occur with the wheels straight or turned? I'm wondering if the tire changes are just barely significant enough to make the computer activate TC/AH at freeway speed while going aroung a slight curve.
Hope you get this figured out soon.
Hope you get this figured out soon.
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Here is a link that is a must read:
http://www.geocities.com/nosro/abs_faq/
See the section on:
What happens if I install aftermarket tires, wheels, brake linings, calipers, springs, . . . ?
Part of what it says:
"It is anybody's guess. Tires and brake linings are fairly safe items to experiment with. Having said this, I will point out that I am familiar with at least one case where the installation of high performance tires (where smooth-riding all-season tires were original equipment) resulted in a reaction with the suspension that ABS had not been tuned to anticipate. In this case, the installation of high performance tires resulted in significantly longer stopping distances because the extra tire stickiness was causing the front suspension to literally bounce off the jounce bumpers repeatedly, causing very violent changes in tire grip that ABS was not expecting. From a strictly ABS standpoint, it is best to stick with a tire, wheel, or brake lining that is similar in characteristic to the original equipment parts, or at least similar to any of the parts that are available as an option on that vehicle."
That's why OEM Z06 wheels and tires on my C5 convertible was as far as I felt I should go.
http://www.geocities.com/nosro/abs_faq/
See the section on:
What happens if I install aftermarket tires, wheels, brake linings, calipers, springs, . . . ?
Part of what it says:
"It is anybody's guess. Tires and brake linings are fairly safe items to experiment with. Having said this, I will point out that I am familiar with at least one case where the installation of high performance tires (where smooth-riding all-season tires were original equipment) resulted in a reaction with the suspension that ABS had not been tuned to anticipate. In this case, the installation of high performance tires resulted in significantly longer stopping distances because the extra tire stickiness was causing the front suspension to literally bounce off the jounce bumpers repeatedly, causing very violent changes in tire grip that ABS was not expecting. From a strictly ABS standpoint, it is best to stick with a tire, wheel, or brake lining that is similar in characteristic to the original equipment parts, or at least similar to any of the parts that are available as an option on that vehicle."
That's why OEM Z06 wheels and tires on my C5 convertible was as far as I felt I should go.
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From: Kernersville NC
Originally Posted by mlongo99
The tire diameter difference sure sounds like it may be contributing to your problem, at least in part. Being intermittent sure makes it a lot harder to diagnose. Have you driven at speeds over 75 since it started happening? And is there anything else that you modified? Did it occur with the wheels straight or turned? I'm wondering if the tire changes are just barely significant enough to make the computer activate TC/AH at freeway speed while going aroung a slight curve. <snip>
To answer your questions... Both times it has done this (1) I was on perfectly dry, flat road (interstate 77), (2) I was rolling down the road in a straight line at a constant speed and (3) I was not horsing around spinning tires, swerving, etc... Each time I was running just over 70mph. Both times when the Traction System Active warning came on, the car slowed to 70mph and would not accelerate past 70. Both times, I hit the traction control button to turn off the system and everything went back to normal.. except no traction control.
I am going to put the stock tires/wheels on the car before we head over to Bowling Green next Thursday. If it does it again, atleast I will be headed in the right direction for some answers!... maybe!!
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From: Kernersville NC
Originally Posted by EHS
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From: Austin Texas
