Z51 Swaybars
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,430
Likes: 81
From: Whidbey Island WA
Not true. A bolt may have been torqued down to say 50 lbs but could require much more (possibly several times the amount of torque) in order to get it to budge when you go to take it off. That method simply does not work and should be done only if you cant get the torque specs on anything where the torque spec is important. In many cases they are there just to keep someone from putting the gorrilla torque on a 1/4" bolt with a 4' cheater bar on the end of their wrench.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
From: Salinas Ca
Originally Posted by crabman
Not true.
Originally Posted by crabman
A bolt may have been torqued down to say 50 lbs but could require much more (possibly several times the amount of torque) in order to get it to budge when you go to take it off.
Originally Posted by crabman
"That method simply does not work..."
Originally Posted by crabman
"... and should be done only if you cant get the torque specs on anything where the torque spec is important.
Originally Posted by crabman
In many cases they are there just to keep someone from putting the gorrilla torque on a 1/4" bolt with a 4' cheater bar on the end of their wrench.
Of course the off shoot WILL be to keep things from being overtightened.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,430
Likes: 81
From: Whidbey Island WA
What your saying is just flat wrong other than the part where you talk about doing this if you are unable to get the proper specs. The amount of torque required to get a bolt to break loose can vary widely from the amount of torque that was used to properly install it. I have seen this personally many, many times. I have turned plenty of wrenchs myself and I would rather just use a standard torque value for the size and type of fastener than the method you describe. This is something I often run into on my boat where we have many things that were custom built 20 years ago by an outfit that doesnt even exist anymore and there is nothing to do but try and put your best guess on it. The method you describe is mentioned specifically as something you should not do in several of the tech manuals I have on the boat where I have an extensive library of such material because we dont call a plumber or welder or mechanic or electrician or anything else. Were on our own. I suppose as the saying goes we will have to agree to disagree.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,345
Likes: 3
Originally Posted by crabman
What your saying is just flat wrong other than the part where you talk about doing this if you are unable to get the proper specs. The amount of torque required to get a bolt to break loose can vary widely from the amount of torque that was used to properly install it. I have seen this personally many, many times. I have turned plenty of wrenchs myself and I would rather just use a standard torque value for the size and type of fastener than the method you describe. This is something I often run into on my boat where we have many things that were custom built 20 years ago by an outfit that doesnt even exist anymore and there is nothing to do but try and put your best guess on it. The method you describe is mentioned specifically as something you should not do in several of the tech manuals I have on the boat where I have an extensive library of such material because we dont call a plumber or welder or mechanic or electrician or anything else. Were on our own. I suppose as the saying goes we will have to agree to disagree.
The only thing I'd add is that when using a standard torque for the grade of screw make sure you are torquing into steel or iron - standard torques (especially for high grade bolts 10.9,12.9,F, G grades) into aluminum will ususally strip out the threads.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 853
From: Daytona Beach FL
Originally Posted by crabman
What your saying is just flat wrong other than the part where you talk about doing this if you are unable to get the proper specs. The amount of torque required to get a bolt to break loose can vary widely from the amount of torque that was used to properly install it. I have seen this personally many, many times. I have turned plenty of wrenchs myself and I would rather just use a standard torque value for the size and type of fastener than the method you describe. This is something I often run into on my boat where we have many things that were custom built 20 years ago by an outfit that doesnt even exist anymore and there is nothing to do but try and put your best guess on it. The method you describe is mentioned specifically as something you should not do in several of the tech manuals I have on the boat where I have an extensive library of such material because we dont call a plumber or welder or mechanic or electrician or anything else. Were on our own. I suppose as the saying goes we will have to agree to disagree.
Especially since some of the bolts have loctite on them. I just changed out my rotors, and the caliper bracket bolts had blue loctite on them. They required a rubber mallet on the end of my box-end wrench to get them to loosen up.
Using the torque wrench to figure out a torque value before loosening them would have come up with about 400 ft-lbs!!!
I don't know what the value should be, but when re-installing I put on some more blue loctite and torqued to 80 ft-lbs, which didn't seem excessive. Wish I had a service manual!!
Bob
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
From: Salinas Ca
I give.....! :)
LOL- ok guys....I'll grant that there will always be exceptions to my "practice". So..... I'll withdraw my "theory".
HOWEVER(lol)....hitting a box wrench (probably less than 12'' long) with a RUBBER mallet is NOT going to produce 400ftlbs of force.
HOWEVER(lol)....hitting a box wrench (probably less than 12'' long) with a RUBBER mallet is NOT going to produce 400ftlbs of force.
