Z51 Swaybars
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 498
Likes: 2
From: San Diego Ca.
Z51 Swaybars
Hi has anyone here with an 05 coupe with base suspension replaced their stock antiroll ( sway bars ) with the Z51 suspension swaybars ?
Reason I am asking is that I ordered a set for my coupe but the dealer I bought the car from refuses to put the on my car
I am going to try another dealer closer to my house and see if they will do it.
Thanks,
Fred
Reason I am asking is that I ordered a set for my coupe but the dealer I bought the car from refuses to put the on my car
I am going to try another dealer closer to my house and see if they will do it.Thanks,
Fred
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,276
Likes: 8
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Did it on my vert. Take it to someone else, or do it yourself. Pretty easy install if you can get the car up in the air/lift. My kit came with easy to follow instructions.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,430
Likes: 81
From: Whidbey Island WA
Lots of guys have done it. The only downside is that its not free. The car feels much better with the increased roll control and I would highly reccomend this to anyone with base or F55. It takes about an hour and any competent shop that you would trust to lift your car can do the job.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 33
From: S.D. CA
Originally Posted by Dream C-5
Hi has anyone here with an 05 coupe with base suspension replaced their stock antiroll ( sway bars ) with the Z51 suspension swaybars ?
Reason I am asking is that I ordered a set for my coupe but the dealer I bought the car from refuses to put the on my car I am going to try another dealer closer to my house and see if they will do it.
Thanks,
Fred
Reason I am asking is that I ordered a set for my coupe but the dealer I bought the car from refuses to put the on my car
I am going to try another dealer closer to my house and see if they will do it.Thanks,
Fred
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,284
Likes: 3
From: Southwest Florida
Originally Posted by chris36053
What does the C6 use for sway bar bushings ? Rubber or urethane ? and are you guys using the stock bushings ?
I say do it yourself. 6 bolts in the front, 6 in the back and you're done.
Mike
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
From: Salinas Ca
Originally Posted by vrodder64
Is a lift critical to installation, or if a guy is small enough could they just wiggle under and do the swap?
The front could be done with just rhino ramps or something similar.
Or jack the front up, place car on jack stands, take off both front wheels and replace sway bar.
You COULD replace w/o taking front wheels off but I think it's easier with wheels off.
Doing it yourself saves money and you will ALWAYS find a use for the ramps!....like changing your own oil!
This "mod" is a "no-brainer"....REALLY!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 2
From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by mikeyc6
Stock bushings are all that is available right now and new bushings come with the Z51 sway bars if you order the Z51 sway bar upgrade "kit" from Fichtner. I don't know what compound they are.
I say do it yourself. 6 bolts in the front, 6 in the back and you're done.
Mike
I say do it yourself. 6 bolts in the front, 6 in the back and you're done.
Mike
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,708
Likes: 2
From: Billings MT
This is Bob at Fichtner Chevrolet,
We have the kits in stock and shipping everyday for someone who may want the upgrade. GM will not use the urethane bushings due to the squeak problem with them that they would have to put up with under warranty. The mod can be done with jack stands but is a whole lot easier with a hoist. On a hoist it takes 45 min to 1 hour max. It is a very straight forward mod and not really difficult to do at all.
Why a dealer would refuse to do this I don't know unless they are just afraid of doing any kind of modification.
If you have any other questions or wish to order give me a call at 800-234-5284 or email me at parts@fichtnerchevrolet.com
Bob
We have the kits in stock and shipping everyday for someone who may want the upgrade. GM will not use the urethane bushings due to the squeak problem with them that they would have to put up with under warranty. The mod can be done with jack stands but is a whole lot easier with a hoist. On a hoist it takes 45 min to 1 hour max. It is a very straight forward mod and not really difficult to do at all.
Why a dealer would refuse to do this I don't know unless they are just afraid of doing any kind of modification.
If you have any other questions or wish to order give me a call at 800-234-5284 or email me at parts@fichtnerchevrolet.com
Bob
Safety Car
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 3,525
Likes: 0
From: Kenton TN
I did it to mine, thanks Bob, and it is the best mod you can make for 157 dollars...lol
If you can change a tire, you can put these on, you just need some basic hand tools. My car is lowered and I am not a little guy, so I put both my front and rear up on rhino ramps. The bars from Bob come with new bushings, and I noticed the rear bushings are firmer than the bast sway bar bushing. The front bushing has some sore of cord, kinda like an engine belt, incorporated into the rubber I assume to prevent squeak.
If you can change a tire, you can put these on, you just need some basic hand tools. My car is lowered and I am not a little guy, so I put both my front and rear up on rhino ramps. The bars from Bob come with new bushings, and I noticed the rear bushings are firmer than the bast sway bar bushing. The front bushing has some sore of cord, kinda like an engine belt, incorporated into the rubber I assume to prevent squeak.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 498
Likes: 2
From: San Diego Ca.
Originally Posted by CorvettePartsBob
This is Bob at Fichtner Chevrolet,
We have the kits in stock and shipping everyday for someone who may want the upgrade. GM will not use the urethane bushings due to the squeak problem with them that they would have to put up with under warranty. The mod can be done with jack stands but is a whole lot easier with a hoist. On a hoist it takes 45 min to 1 hour max. It is a very straight forward mod and not really difficult to do at all.
Why a dealer would refuse to do this I don't know unless they are just afraid of doing any kind of modification.
If you have any other questions or wish to order give me a call at 800-234-5284 or email me at parts@fichtnerchevrolet.com
Bob
We have the kits in stock and shipping everyday for someone who may want the upgrade. GM will not use the urethane bushings due to the squeak problem with them that they would have to put up with under warranty. The mod can be done with jack stands but is a whole lot easier with a hoist. On a hoist it takes 45 min to 1 hour max. It is a very straight forward mod and not really difficult to do at all.
Why a dealer would refuse to do this I don't know unless they are just afraid of doing any kind of modification.
If you have any other questions or wish to order give me a call at 800-234-5284 or email me at parts@fichtnerchevrolet.com
Bob
I ordered mine from you yesterday
I don't understand why the dealer would not put them on for me.; I told them that they were G.M. parts.Fred
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Orange County CA
Hi Bob,
I bought my swaybars from you and they make all the difference in the world. But when I recieved the box the only paperwork was the shipper. I was hoping that you would include the bolt torque values. I've tightened them snugly, but since the threads are aluminum it would be VERY helpful if you could look up the torque values and post them here. Since the service manual isn't out yet, I don't have any way to look it up. 
I bought my swaybars from you and they make all the difference in the world.
But when I recieved the box the only paperwork was the shipper. I was hoping that you would include the bolt torque values. I've tightened them snugly, but since the threads are aluminum it would be VERY helpful if you could look up the torque values and post them here. Since the service manual isn't out yet, I don't have any way to look it up.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 1
From: NOwhere Township
St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by Lowlead
Hi Bob,
I bought my swaybars from you and they make all the difference in the world. But when I recieved the box the only paperwork was the shipper. I was hoping that you would include the bolt torque values. I've tightened them snugly, but since the threads are aluminum it would be VERY helpful if you could look up the torque values and post them here. Since the service manual isn't out yet, I don't have any way to look it up.
I bought my swaybars from you and they make all the difference in the world.
But when I recieved the box the only paperwork was the shipper. I was hoping that you would include the bolt torque values. I've tightened them snugly, but since the threads are aluminum it would be VERY helpful if you could look up the torque values and post them here. Since the service manual isn't out yet, I don't have any way to look it up. 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
From: Salinas Ca
Finding torque values....
For some of you/us "non-gear heads" that want to work on your cars...
To find a torque value simply get a "Bar" Torque wrench and then torque ON the bolt in question, that you want to take off, and watch where/when the "torque bar" begins to move, make a note of the "value", and that's what the bolt was torqued to intially.
When I say "Bar type" I mean a T-wrench that has a long "pointer" that indicates (points) to the torque number(value), NOT the "Clicker type" torque wrench. Though I find that the "Clicker type" is more accurate for INSTALLING or re-tighting bolts/nuts.
Caveat - not a "TECH writer" so if this explanation is not clear.....hope a gearhead expands on it......
To find a torque value simply get a "Bar" Torque wrench and then torque ON the bolt in question, that you want to take off, and watch where/when the "torque bar" begins to move, make a note of the "value", and that's what the bolt was torqued to intially.
When I say "Bar type" I mean a T-wrench that has a long "pointer" that indicates (points) to the torque number(value), NOT the "Clicker type" torque wrench. Though I find that the "Clicker type" is more accurate for INSTALLING or re-tighting bolts/nuts.
Caveat - not a "TECH writer" so if this explanation is not clear.....hope a gearhead expands on it......
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,430
Likes: 81
From: Whidbey Island WA
Originally Posted by natejohn
For some of you/us "non-gear heads" that want to work on your cars...
To find a torque value simply get a "Bar" Torque wrench and then torque ON the bolt in question, that you want to take off, and watch where/when the "torque bar" begins to move, make a note of the "value", and that's what the bolt was torqued to intially.
When I say "Bar type" I mean a T-wrench that has a long "pointer" that indicates (points) to the torque number(value), NOT the "Clicker type" torque wrench. Though I find that the "Clicker type" is more accurate for INSTALLING or re-tighting bolts/nuts.
Caveat - not a "TECH writer" so if this explanation is not clear.....hope a gearhead expands on it......
To find a torque value simply get a "Bar" Torque wrench and then torque ON the bolt in question, that you want to take off, and watch where/when the "torque bar" begins to move, make a note of the "value", and that's what the bolt was torqued to intially.
When I say "Bar type" I mean a T-wrench that has a long "pointer" that indicates (points) to the torque number(value), NOT the "Clicker type" torque wrench. Though I find that the "Clicker type" is more accurate for INSTALLING or re-tighting bolts/nuts.
Caveat - not a "TECH writer" so if this explanation is not clear.....hope a gearhead expands on it......
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
From: Salinas Ca
Originally Posted by crabman
This is not correct. It can often take significantly more torque to loosen a bolt than was used to tighten it. Get the proper torque specs and use em. Making them about as tight as they seemed to be when you took them off should only be done when there is no way to get the specs.
When faced with a "fastner" to take off and put back on and NO reference available; I take my bar type torque wrench and start to TIGHTEN the bolt and watching when the bar starts to move. That shows me how much(within reason) the bolt/nut was torqued. If the bolt was torqued ON to 200ftlbs. the "bar" will start to move at 200ftlbs. and that's what I make note of for the install measurement. I then take said fastner off , do whatever work, put bolt/nut back on and use my "clicker" torque wrench to tighten to the aforementioned 200ftlbs.
NOTHING beats the manual for getting the correct settings!