Thats correct!

 

is there a way of cutting the bushing off without having to un install everything??

 

SO, I am going to try to tackle this today. I have a stock 2006 C6 with stock rims and tires that has been untouched from this lowering standpoint. I will take measurements on all 4 corners in the wheel wells and will try to manage pics of how I did it as well as take measurements after lowering while keeping the stock bushings on all 4 corners. IF, I decide to lower the rear more, I will attempt with a sawzall to remove some of the bushing without removing the suspension parts (Dont even want to go there, seems like something like that for me would inevetiably turn into some type of all day fiasco and way too much frustration) and remeasure. Hopefully this will help some people out. Thanks for all of the other pics posted!!!

 

You guys have an pics on how to take off the bolt?

 

Great freaking thread. This has cleared up all the questions I had about lowering on stock bolts!

 

No one has said anything about having to do a realignment? It seems to me that the car would need it ???

Thks,
Robin

 

Do you know of place where I can purchase stock bolts/bushings for the ends of my rear leaf spring? My stock bushings have worn away.

 

You have to purchase the leaf spring in order to get the bolts. Stock bolts are not sold individually.

 

Thanks for the reply. It's a shame that know sells a kit to replace the stock bolt and bushing. I see several companies offering lowering bolts and pads, but no OEM replacements.

 

I'm trying to do this right now. I have the car jacked on the corner and a bottle jack on the leaf spring. I have gap on both sides of the bushing but the damn bolt won't turn no matter how hard I try and pull it. Anyone else have this issue? Everything is clean and no rust etc,

Gave up on it for now. Anyone have any insight as to why mine won't turn?

 

Anyone else have this experience?

 

Spray some PB blasted in there and let it soak. It will eventually budge.

 

Soaked it in pb blaster the first night I tried and couldn't get it to move. Came back yesterday and same deal. Was hoping to get this done before Monday since I have new tires and an alignment scheduled but it doesn't look so good.

 

I'm having the opposite problem... I was able to do the rears just fine but the fronts just spin and spin and spin...the whole bolt..and round flat thing on the bottom.. Any suggestions?
Edit: NVM! I'm a dumbass haha. This is soo cool that you can lower your Corvette for free!

 

how do you make sure you lower or higher them equally on all corn

 

What I did was lower all corners completely and then go from there.

For example I lowered both front and rear as far as it could go but raised both front about 4 turns and left the rear at it's lowest setting.

 

Really want to lower my car a bit on stock bolts especially the rear however here is why I have not done this yet:
1.I am reading that people with magnetic ride have problems with it settling and in some cases it does not settle.
2.Also I read that it can damage the magnetic ride or at a minimum cause it to not work efficiently.
3. On top of this I have read that an extra step is you have to confirm it has settled first before you get it aligned...not before.
4. This is not in any way a performance modification and is primarily cosmetic, in fact some have said that without proper trial and error and if you slam it too much it actually adversely effects the handling and launching of the vehicle.

??? Any comments from people who know what they are doing? This is just stuff I read...I hope some can be proven false !

 

How will you know if the people responding to you "know what they are doing" if you don't trust the previous posters? Just curious.

If you want to lower it for appearance just do it. It won't adversely affect anything and looks good. If you are trying to improve handling on a track that's another discussion, there are specific ways to measure and set ride height.

 

1. I have mine at the lowest settings (raised the front a very tiny amount so the rake wasn't so extreme) and fronts have a 1-1/2 finger gap and the rears have a 2-1/2 finger gap so it seems that they settled pretty equally.
2. Actually you can feel more of a difference from the magnetic ride the lower it is. When I was test driving when I had it completely lowered I was on a back country road I wasn't familiar with and hit a bad dip that lifted me about half a foot in the air and didn't even bottom out upon landing. The front of course scraped but it was as solid as ever before I lowered.
3. Yeah, I guess that makes sense. Go over a speedbump or two and it's pretty much settled.
4. I wouldn't say it's completely cosmetic. You do lower the center of gravity but as far as really dialing it in you would probably only notice a difference on the track. While what your saying about slamming your vehicle adversely effecting handling and launching is true, you can't "slam" your vehicle with stock suspension.

This is personal experience from suspension at nearly it's highest setting to it's lowest setting on F55 MAG Selective Ride Control shocks.

 

thanks for the information ^^^zeeohhseven
Tried to drop it today in the rear....
Definitely, turned bolt counter clockwise and bottomed it out, I even marked it and got approximately 2.5 to 3 turns.
Went over a ton of speed bumps and did some launches...
Didn't drop anything....
I hope it settles overtime...