I new to the Corvette thing so can anyone please give me instruction on how to lower my C6 or point me to a website. I'll be posting new pics on www.gmadracing.com -Matt

 

Go to this thread for lowering details:
Lowering the car: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...ead.php?t=57321
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=955777

 

I am sorry again, but I not sure what bolt your refering to. This is the first Vette I have owned. Could u please be more specific? Could you please brake it down by front and rear. Will I have to raise it once I get 19" and 20" wheels? Thx -Matt

 

I am sorry again, but I not sure what bolt your refering to. This is the first Vette I have owned. Could u please be more specific? Could you please brake it down by front and rear. Will I have to raise it once I get 19" and 20" wheels? Thx -Matt

 

I am sorry again, but I not sure what bolt your refering to. This is the first Vette I have owned. Could u please be more specific? Could you please brake it down by front and rear. Will I have to raise it once I get 19" and 20" wheels? Thx -Matt

 

Below are 2 pics of the lowering bolt in the leaf spring and out of the car.

First, these pics are of the front end of a C5. However, the front and rear of the C6 are exactly like this.

Second, you don't have to take anything apart to lower the car. These pictures show how to take apart the suspension if you want to take the height adjusting bolt out to cut off the rubber bushing. You do not need to take the bolt out to lower the car unless you want to get it lower than it will go with the rubber bushing on it.

The top picture shows the adjusting bolt as it is mounted in the car. It is screwed through the black leaf spring.

The bottom picture just shows what the bolt looks like if it were screwed completely out of the leaf spring and removed from the car - either to cut off the rubber bushing or to put in WCC lowering bolts, either of which will lower the car even further.

To lower the car, jack it up to get the wheel off the ground. If you want to take off the wheel, go ahead, but you can do it without wheel removal.

Once the weight is off the wheel and it is hanging down, you need to jack up the leaf spring enough to take the pressure off the rubber bushing so you can turn the adjusting bolt. You need a 10mm wrench to turn the bolt. Once it's broken loose you can turn it by hand.

You will "unscrew" the bolt to lower the car. "Unscrewing" it will turn it so the rubber bushing is raised toward the leaf spring. To lower it as far as possible, unscrew it until the rubber bushing is right up against the leaf spring (as you see in the top photo). If you want it lower than that, you'll have to remove the bolt and cut the rubber bushing off or get the WCC bolts and install them.

That's all there is to it!!

Bob

 

How much do you think the vette dealer will charge for it or some place like firestone?

 

You car looks stunning, the vette looks awesome lowered...

i am not a fan of sobber colors, I like yellow and reds, but your blue is looking great
(even though my fav color is blue, i like Yellow and Red in cars)

 

How are speed bumps and driveways after lowering?

 

I HAVE ALREADY DESTROYED MY FRONT AIR DAM AT STOCK HEIGHT...BE CAREFUL....BEST LMB VETTE I EVER SEEN!!!!ALMOST AS NICE AS MY MAG RED

 

Actually, I don't think it's any worse at all.

The way my car was originally set up, the rear end was higher than the front. If you jack up the rear end it rotates the whole car around the front wheels and lowers the air dam in the front closer to the ground.

When I lowered the rear end, it did just the opposite - it actually raised the front air dam farther off the ground.

But then I lowered the front a little also, and the air dam height is probably right back to where it was before I started.

The chasis height is lower after lowering the car, but I haven't had any problems scraping the underneath when going over speed bumps slowly.

Bob

 

 

Is yours as low as it goes like the blue one and if so are you happy?

 

In the rear, I cut the rubber bushing off and it's about 1 turn of the bolt from full down in the rear.

In the front, I didn't cut the bushing off. It's about 1-1/2 turns off the bottom in the front. The front seems to be able to go low enough for me with the standard bushing on the bolt.

My DSOM coupe looks like it might be about 1/2" higher than SA734's LMB coupe. I'm real happy with mine. I do need to do some fine tuning - it looks like it's not even on the left and right sides. I'm gonna check the tire pressures, pull it straight in to a real level surface, and measure from the ground to the arch of the wheel wells and adjust a little to get it perfectly even on the left and right.

I'll be posting some pics when I get the calipers painted within the next couple of days and you should be able to see how it looks.

Bob

 

Make those measurements with someone in the driver's seat. You want the car to be level left to right with the normal load. At least you do if you are interested in handling. If it is for show, then level it the way it will be shown.

 

Excellent post "beezeye".

I had mine lowered by WCC in SoCal for $280, I inspected the bolts last night and saw they cut the pads off the bolts.

I currently have the car on four jacks. I removed the calipers AND the brackets and they are all being powder coated red. I also ordered rebuild kits for the calipers from Fitchner Chev and they arrived today. Since I had to remove the pistons, seals and boots - I didn't want to take a chance and re-use them even though they looked fine. I didn't opt to buy the WCC painted calipers because I also wanted the brackets painted so I sent everything out to a comapny myself. To finish off my project and get rid of the brake dust and Z51 squeal, I ordered C6 Ceramic pads and I will install everything Friday night or Saturday morning. I wil post pics of the completed job then.

 

Good idea. Right now when nobody is in the car it's about 1/4" higher on the left than on the right. Maybe if I put my 210 lb butt in the driver's seat it will be just about right!!

Bob

 

please help, do i have to take the whole damn thing part to get the bolt out to cut the bushing off ? I am tring to see what am getting myself into Thx -Matt

 

If you want to cut the bushing off, YES.

If you turn the bolt so the rubber bushing is right up against the leaf-spring, and that's not low enough for ya', then you've got to take the adjusting bolt out to cut off the rubber bushing or put in the WCC bolts (which I think are basically what you get if cut the bushing off, but with a little pad of rubber on it).

You can see from the pics that if you cut off most of the bushing, you'll still have a little bit of rubber on the bolt head (NOT MUCH, but a little!).

This is all from memory, but in the rear, to get the bolt out, you need to jack up the rear wheel you're gonna work on and take the wheel off, detach the sway-bar from the suspension (I just loosened the 2 bolts that hold the bracket on and undid the bolt on the very end of the sway-bar). Then you have to remove the bolt that holds the lower A-arm to the bottom of the shock. I had a bottle-jack to support the leaf-spring and take tension off the lower A-arm.

Then there is a vertical bolt that holds the bottom A-arm on to the suspension. There is a nut that you loosen (you can't take it all the way off until the A-arm is loose and starts to drop). I believe the bolt that this nut goes onto is a "cone bolt", and it's a tight fit and both sides of mine took some persuasion to get loose. I had to squirt a bunch of WD-40 in there and pound on the A-arm with a rubber mallet to get it to finally come loose.

When the A-arm is loose, it swings down and you can remove the height adjusting bolt.

Here are pictures of what you've got when the bolt is out:



You can see that if you cut off the bushing you'll get about another 3/4 inch or so lower.

To put it back together, just reverse the order: Put your adjusting bolt back in (I recommend all the way and then back off about a turn - you can always adjust the height later if it's too low), raise the A-arm and put the nut on the vertical cone bolt, put the bolt back in lower shock mount, and reattach the sway-bar. Put you wheel back on and lower the car.

You'll have to drive it a bit (probalbly a couple of miles) to get everything to settle down.

Then pull over in a place with some photogenic scenery, get out, and admire your slammed look - and take some pictures to post here!!!

Bob

P.S.: I found that the front goes down plenty far for me without cutting off the bushings, so I didn't take the bolts out of the front.

 

Is there such a thing as a maximum drop standard without cutting the bushings? I'd like to get about an inch out of it...thoughts, possible without cutting bushings?