Had to replace the right front with a standard stem do to a minor accident. Error was flat right front and the only thing that I could do was shut off traction control. It seemed to be very sensitive with the AH, seemed to activate at the slightest corner. So was stuck with that through out the run that weekend.

 

Just to clear a few things up:

The Z06 wheels had no sensors, they were off my '02.

The fit issues were: (1) wrong offset so wheels stick out too mych (2) front 17 won't fit over the Z51 brake/rotor. Solved that by swapping in a C5 rotor and caliper mounting bracket. 17's would clear base / F55 C6 fronts just fine.

Perhaps the C6 distinguishes between a real flat (1 wheel with zero pressure and all four others normal pressure) and no pressure readings at all. All I can say is that the car was fine. Just hit the reset button, that was all.

 

I'm sure it's been posted, but if I recall, it's the active handling algorithm that reduces car performance in situations with a flat tire, that enabled them to build the runflats to have more flexible sidewalls and perform better. They knew AH would be monitoring.

 

Any new news on this subject???

 

Gotta have the tool. It costs $200. Takes about 2 mins to use it if you are lazy. Works like a charm.

 

I'll have an 05 at the track with NO sensors this weekend. However, I'll also have my race car for the serious driving. I was hoping to do some hot laps in the street car, but looks like I may be out of luck.

If it works, I'll post updates as well

 

Thanks guys...

 

I drove my car for 300 miles with no sensors. After about 70 miles I got a warning saying to service the TPM but nothing happened with the performace and/or active handling. Hitting reset made the warning go away. Others have reported the same behavior.

 

Don't they recalibrate the brake sensors on the replaced tires? Also what about independents as more and more cars are coming with brake sensors as it has become law now. You would think that the mechanics would have received proper training on installation and hooking up tires sensors properly.

 

If you use your same old sensors, their is no need to reprogram them as long as they go into the same place they were before. If you get new ones, you need to reprogram them. It tells the car which corner the tire pressure sensor is on as much as activates them. I would venture to say that most tire places probably don't realize that you can't do the old magnet trick any more. When I had my tires mounted a few weeks ago I was talking to the tire guy about tire activation units. He said "We have one still in the box. Have never taken it out." which means he does not know that you HAVE to use it now.

 

Okay guy's, how do you change the max pressure warning on the tms? New wheels with Yokohamas,old sensors. These tires seem to need 42lbs to perform. Maybe I missed something here?

 

I don't know of any way to modify the max pressure warning threshold.

On my track day I ended up bleeding some air out of the tires. With a right turn bias track my left front generate a warning on the first session with a cold starting pressure of 34 PSI. BFG KDW2s in this case.

 

Thanks, the yoko's have a max pressure of 51, at 44 their great, warning is a nusiance.

 

44 is an extrememly high tire pressure. In general, 42 is about as high as you want to go with stock alignment, about 38 with an aggressive track alignment.

At 44psi, the center of the tire is bulging into the track severely, and not allowing the inside of the tire to work much at all.

HOWEVER, if it feels good to you, then do it. I've never run those tires obviously.....

 

Cold psi is about 40, but it takes at least that to make them perform. Bad about road walking at a lower psi

 

I find it almost beyond beleif that anyone would enter any kind of automotive competition-1/4 mile-road race x/cross-anything-with traction control and/or active handeling engaged. If you don't know how to drive the car the last place you belong is on a race track!I agree that if it's 4AM-you've had a few drinks-your half asleep and driving home in the rain-active handeling could be a life saver.But in any other circumstance it can only get a good driver into trouble. If you are sliding or drifting a car into or out of a corner the computer doesn't know that this was done intentionally-it thinks the car is out of control and will immediatly take steps [such as limiting power or selectively pumping one or more brakes] to correct what it thinks was your error.Thats just what you need to happen in the middle of your high speed maneuver-Right?? I had a nissan 350Z that suprised me in just this manner and took me out of a 1oo+ mph turn beceause I forgot to de activate the active handeling. I managed to steer my way through the trees and got it stopped in the parking lot without hitting anything -the only apparent damage was to my underware -but I wont claim skill on this one-I was very lucky!! and really mad at myself for not double checking the car's settings. I will never make that mistake again!! I dont mean to preach, but whenever I see anyone mention using any of these features while competing or just driving hard I feel it my duty to make them aware of the risk. Like I said before-active handeling has it's place, but it's a poor substitute for driving skill.

 

Please help with this Question... I have a C6 08 coupe and just had a lot of up grades done with my car. Including new (19' & 20' black ZR1 with center caps 100 years rims and tires) put on my car. Had more upgrades but adding this one so you are informed, carbon fiber wide body kit installed also this is one reason that I was able for the huge tires and rims fitting on my car. I ordered the rims and tires from West Coast Corvette when I ordered the rims and tires the guy asked me what year was my car and the tires and rims came mounted and balanced with the TPMS already inside the tires. Ok now adding this information also before I went and picked up my car the owner told me that my car would not hold a charge for much longer than a day so I agreed with his suggestion on replacing the battery, adding this info because not sure if it makes a diff. but all info that I have hopefully will help with an answer.

I drove the car for a few miles and then the TPMS system came up on dash with a blinking horse shoe and the TPMS has an (PSI) XX/LF , XX/RF, XX/LR, XX/RR. When before it would tell me how much air pressure was in each tire. So does anyone know how I can fix this problem I am thinking that my car has gone through a reset because I had the change oil come on the dash also. BTW I just had the oil changed before it went into the shop this was on the first time yesterday when I picked up the car. While asking is there anything else that I should think of since the car got the new battery also

OH and my X-M radio does not work does that have 2 do with the new battery also or I need 2 call the radio company also? Do they need 2 send a new signal again. I have never had an X-M radio before so this is all new for me. If only I was more mechanical than a piece of carpet.

Any and all help is appreciated thank you in advance.
Sincerely Richard Roys

P.S. I will down load the picture's for the friends on the forum that wanted picture's of the before and after. And I have a whole lot of parts that I will be putting up on the forum for sale really cheap including rims tires panels blah blah.

 

you got to get the new tire pressure sensors coded to the car. buy a tool or find place that has one

 

Holy old thread bump Batman.